If La Condesa is Mexico City’s lungs, and Roma Norte is the stomach, then Roma Sur is the heart. Roma Sur seems to run at a different pace than the north. This area is primarily residential, and therefore things seem to move a bit slower here. More leisurely. You can wander the streets, under the shade of the trees, marvelling at the colonial architecture and brightly painted buildings, without hearing a single voice during certain times of the day.
One of the things you’ll really notice about Roma Sur is the community involvement here. From environmental initiatives to community growth and artistic projects. This part of town seems to aim to transform seemingly everyday spaces to benefit the people there. They don’t want to cover every street corner with trendy restaurants and cafes. These end up primarily benefiting tourists. They want to make life for the residents who live here as beautiful and liveable it possibly can be!
This guided tour of Roma Sur will have you feeling like a local! It covers the best sights and hidden gems inside the veins of his vibrant part of Mexico City. Plus, you’ll get to indulge in some of Roma Sur‘s best culinary delights, too!
The neighbourhood of Roma is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time! The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sur. The southern boundary of the Colonia Roma Sur is formed by the new Rio de la Piedad Street Viaduct.
Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.
But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.
The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma!
In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.
The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!
Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!
Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”.
But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.
In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.
This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.
Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.
In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. But things have been a bit slower in Roma Sur. This part of town still shows the scars of the earthquake. But with those scars, comes the preservation of the traditional way of life. There are more mom-and-pop restaurants, open for generations around here. Marketplaces that the town has grown around instead of the other way around. There is no doubt, Roma Sur feels more like the real heart of the old colonia.
If you’d like to stay in Roma Sur, there are fewer options than in the north part of the neighbourhood. Airbnb offers many low-cost options in this area of town, with rooms for as little as $50-$70 a night for an entire apartment. But you should never forget that Airbnb has been slightly problematic in Mexico City. You are causing rent inflation and apartment shortages for locals. If you want to use Airbnb, try to look for a listing where the host does not have multiple properties. This suggests that they are not just a multi-unit proprietor who could even be an international owner.
Look for a listing from someone who lives in the neighbourhood but is just looking to make some money on their unit when they aren’t in town. Also, be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.
Ignacia Guest House is technically located in Roma Norte but is just on the edge of the Southern borders. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.
Each suite is designed differently, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. They can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree in the morning. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.
Hotel Roma 191 is a gorgeous boutique hotel specializing in elegance and comfort. It wanted to harness the spirit and history of various famous artists. They created six unique rooms inspired by those artists’ work. The result is one of the most unique and relaxing places to stay in Roma Sur. With only six rooms in the entire hotel, this truly feels like a homey environment.
The best place to start the day is with a good cup of coffee. Head to the southernmost part of the neighbourhood to Le Babüin cafe. This adorable coffee shop, named after the baboon in their logo, is a perfect slice of morning cheer. The staff are so friendly, and the caffeine that drips out of the espresso machines is first class. The sign above their door translates into the quote, “Everyone should believe in something. I think I’ll have another coffee.” Love it.
Grab your coffee to go and walk south along C. Chilpancingo until you can see the big highway ahead. “A highway?” You might think. “Really? That’s where we’re headed next.” And yes, but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.
If you’ve ever travelled to New York, you’ll have heard of the high-line. A 1.45-mile-long elevated green park created on a former New York Central Railroad. Well, this is the same kind of concept here in Mexico City. This pedestrian path is surrounded on both sides by trees and aquatic plants. You’ll see people out for a run or walking their dogs. All the while meandering along atop one of the busiest highways in the city. The entire path extends from Chilpancingo metro to Monterrey Avenue with over 4,800 square meters of vegetation dotted across the path.
But the Ecoducto isn’t just a pretty pathway; it has an essential purpose. This is a recovered public space, with a system that cleans the polluted water out of the Piedad River. The water is piped in, and the living ecosystem atop the cement is fed by the water and purifies it in the process. The entire system captures 50 tons of carbon per year. And pumps out about 1% of the drainage water in Mexico City. While that might not seem like a lot, it is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, in the future, they will be able to create more of these beautiful systems that serve the environment and the community.
Head out of the Ecoducto via the next overpass and continue north along C. Manzanillo. This leisurely walk with your coffee provides one of the best examples of the simple beauty of the neighbourhood. The emerald green canopy of leafy trees above you protects you from the bright morning sun. Locals mull about getting their morning groceries or calling on the local tamale biker.
Turn left on Quintana Roo to reach the humble Parroquía de la Divina Providencia. This neighbourhood church is a perfect example of Spanish Revival architecture in the Colonia Roma Sur. It is such a sweet little church, often with lovely ladies sitting outside the front gates. They sit outside, selling trinkets to raise money for the parish. An excellent place to drop in and study the fantastic murals inside if there isn’t a service going on. In such a modest church, it’s incredible to see the floor-to-ceiling mural painted on the back of the church’s nave.
Head back to C. Manzanillo you reach Tlaxcala street. On the corner is this Alice in Wonderlandesque restaurant. Serenna Restaurante & Café Gourmet is famous for its hanging flowers that drape the restaurant’s entire exterior. The cafe is inspired by the TV show ‘Gossip Girl‘ and its main character Serena van der Woodsen! Truly one of those oddities you would never expect to find in Mexico City, but here it is! Personally, I like sitting out on the patio with one of their gourmet coffees. And prefer to save my stomach for brunch at our following location. But there is no doubt; this place is an Instagrammers dream!
Walk one block north to Aguascalientes and head inside Borona Lonchería. Borona Lonchería pops up along a bit of slice of businesses along Aguascalientes street. The small cafe has an incredible brunch menu. Their thick-cut french toast with fresh berries is definitely droll-worthy or my favourite, the Chilaquiles con huevos. If you prefer, you can also peruse their to die pastry cabinet to try a little bit of everything. This place is pet-friendly, so often, you’ll find townies with their furry friends parked up along the patio. And if you’re like me and miss your dog when you’re travelling, this place is your opportunity to sneak a few pets in 🙂
If you’re in town on Friday, Saturday or Sunday do you need to check out El Hidalguense! El Hidalguense is one of the top traditional Mexican restaurants in the entire city. The restaurant’s classic, old-world interior design makes you feel like you’re stepping back in time. And the dishes are made to bring your taste buds right back there with you. The restaurant specializes in barbacoa (barbeque) lamb tacos which send anyone drooling upon entering the restaurant.
This restaurant is only open on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.
After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and a must–order from El Hidalguense. The atmosphere here is like walking into a huge family party, that has already gotten underway. Families gather to share large platters of slow-cooked meat. Even visitors like you will feel like family by the end of the meal.
Now that you’re all fueled up, it’s time to venture into the most important spot in Roma Sur, the Mercado Medellin. There is no doubt that this market is the community’s beating heart. Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.
The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by its red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.
The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”
The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, check out our complete guided tour if you want to know the best shops to visit! And what you NEED to buy 🙂
Right across the street from the market is one of the precious few vegan taquerias in the city. Por Siempre Vegana or Forever Vegan, located along Coahuila Street, prides itself on making traditional-style Mexican tacos without the meat! Being a vegan visitor in Mexico City is definitely getting more and more accessible over the years and places like this are the reason! Even if you’re a meat-eater it’s worth checking out. It’s impressive to see the techniques and ingredients they use to create these incredible dishes.
Further east along Coahuila Street is the joyful interiors of Tienda Trama. This shop is cooperative, meaning that everything you find here is made by a series of different local craftspeople and designers. So even if a smaller producer couldn’t afford to open their own shop, they can still sell their products direct to the customers. You can find everything from embroideries, ceramics, hand-made contemporary arts, kids’ clothes, and beautiful jewelry. All locally made and giving back to the community.
I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember my travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.
Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from the recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.
The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! Their aim is to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities that are integrated into their local environments.
Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and just appreciate the artworks, you can also stop into the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics, vegan desserts and fresh coffee. There is also a small amphitheatre that frequently hosts musical performances. So be sure to poke your head around to see what you can find!
On the corner of Orizaba and C. Antonio M. Anza, just down the street, is the Mercado 100. The Mercado 100 is held every Sunday. It is one of the most unique markets you’ll find anywhere in the city. What makes the Mercado 100 so special is that they aim to be an ethical marketing alternative for organic, ecological and local producers. The market has been running for the past 8 years, and highlights over 50 producers from all over Mexico.
While there is lots of local produce for sale here, you can also buy packaged products. Everything from; honey, vanilla, sauces, chocolate, spices and more. These are wonderful things to buy to bring a slice of Mexico home with you. There are also local artisans selling their wares and handmade goods. Plus the street food, especially the vegan variety, is always incredibly fresh!
Take a walk south down Jalapa Street, where you find the great Benito Juárez Elementary School. Benito Pablo Juárez García was the first president of Mexico who was of indigenous origin and an important figure in the history of Mexico City. This is one of the oldest public schools in the city. The school is an incredible example of the Spanish Revival style of architecture.
If you are craving a snack, hop over to Tamales Doña Emi. If you’ve never managed to be up early in the morning to catch the street tamale vendor, this is a great place to try tamales! There are dozens of different varieties here to try. They have all the traditional fillings and some more eclectic and modern variations as well. Something for everyone.
Turn west along Tepeji street until you find #22 Tepeji. This unassuming street is home to the exterior shooting location of the house featured in the award-winning film ‘Roma‘ by Alfonso Cuaron. In addition to this famous sight, if you look right across the street, you’ll see the real-life childhood home of the director. A plaque at #22 Tepeji commemorates this house as the film’s shooting location.
The film ‘Roma‘ is a must-watch for anyone visiting Mexico City. It follows the life of a live-in Mixteco housekeeper of a middle-class family. The Mixtecos, are the indigenous peoples of Mexico inhabiting the region known as La Mixteca. It is Cuarón’s semi-autobiographical take on life in the Colonia Roma in the 1970s. The film’s backdrop portrays the tensions over the land that is Colonia Roma. It shows student protestors fighting for the democratization of education. These freedom fighters were also asking for control of the university budget to be handed over to the students and teachers. They wanted political freedom for workers and peasants and quality education for everyone! They also fought for greater cultural diversity but sadly, their efforts resulted in the Corpus Christi Massacre of 1971. Nearly 120 protesters were killed, among them a fourteen-year-old boy. A sad but harsh reality of Mexico City’s history.
If this visit to the set of ‘Roma’ inspired you to watch more Mexican Cinema, head over to Cine Tonalá. ‘Tonalá’ is a Nahuatl word from the ancient Aztec language. It means “the place where the sun comes out” as a cinema so often brings light to our lives. Cine Tonalá is a bar, restaurant, and film auditorium that runs only independent movies. At least one of the films is always a local, Mexican production. Ask or check online to see if films airing are either in English with Spanish subtitles or have English subtitles. It’s a wonderful place to support if you are able to.
If indie movies aren’t your thing, head over to the western edge of Roma Sur. Here you can pop your head into the fresh exhibitions at Lulu Gallery. Lulu is an independent, Mexico City-based art project space. The gallery specializes in artworks created out of interesting materials and forms. While some galleries feature work that tends to be more about the message than form, this gallery flips that concept on its head. What you’re left with are some really really cool works of art that draw you in and yet don’t ask too much of your brain. Which I always think is a great way to approach art.
To end your evening in Roma Sur, head up to the Comedor de los Milagros. The amazing communal party atmosphere inside is palpable. Comedor de los Milagros is a Latin American market, where you can try food from seven different Latin American countries. There are seven restaurant booths surrounding the wide-open room where guests dine on long, communal picnic benches. The food is representative of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Uruguay, Peru, Venezuela and Mexico. Peruvian ceviche, Argentinian steak, and even a slew of vegan options as well can all be found inside!
The upper balcony is covered in wall murals and living plants to give the vibe of being outside! It’s the most lively place to be at night, but on the weekend be prepared to wait in line as it’s one of the hottest places in town. But well worth the effort to get inside!
I hope you enjoyed this tour of Roma Sur. Let me know in the comment if you’ve visited this part of Mexico City and how different you found Roma Sur to be compared to Roma Norte!
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Muchísimas gracias por esta lista de lugares en Roma sur!!! Estamos por acá ahora y sus recomendaciones nos ayudan mucho! Abrazos
That's amazing! I'm so happy you're having a wonderful time! | ¡Eso es increíble! ¡Me alegro mucho de que lo estés pasando genial!