To finish the day off, let’s spend the last few hours of sunlight at the most important shrine in Kamakura; Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū. Despite the fact it is one of the most important, it is also one of the newest shrines. That being said, it is still almost 1000 years old!
Shogunate Minamoto no Yoritomo was the founder of the Kamakura. When he became Shogunate, his first task was to move the captial of Japan from Kyoto to his home in Kamakura. Kamakura was previously a simple fishing village. When it became the capital they essentially had a fresh space to create a capital city. The second task Minamoto did was to move the Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine to Kamakura from its previous location in Zaimokuza.
The Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine is dedicated to the god Hachiman. Hachiman is the divine protector of Japan. He is known as the “god of martial arts” as he was the great patron deity of the samurai. Moving the temple of Hachiman also meant moving the nation’s best warriors to reside in the new location in order to protect this new government.
The name “Hachiman” means “eight banners.” Emperor Ōjin is the divine spirit of the deity Hachiman, and it is the legend that when he was born, eight heavenly banners flew through the sky, carried by doves, to signal his birth. You will find images of doves used as talismans in reference to Emperor Ōjin.
Walking up to the shrine, the first thing which greets you is a large red torii gate. Opposite the red torii gate is a low-lying stone bridge that crosses two ponds on either side. The two Genpei ponds represent the Minamoto clan on the left and the Taira clan on the right. The Taira clan was the bitter rival of Shogun Minamoto. On the left side which is in honour of the Minamoto clan, the pond has three little islands. The number three in Japan symbolizes birth. The pond on the right, on the other hand, has four islands. The number four represents death, corresponding with the pond associated with the rival clan. Perhaps used as an omen and warning to those who come to the shrine with cruel intentions.
Living inside the pond are many different coloured koi fish and cute softshell turtles. There are lots of waterfowl too, creating a constant flurry of activity in the trees and water. In the summertime, the entirety of the water’s surface is blooming with lotus flowers and is such a sight to see!
Because the new Shogun had complete control of his new captial city’s design, he wanted to ensure that it was built with Feng Shui in mind.
Feng Shui is a Chinese principle that focuses on the natural forces on earth. The idea is that these forces can be harmonized and controlled to create power and good fortune. One way this is done is by the orientation of building around these invisible forces. Many principles of Feng Shui were kept in mind when designing the layout of the shrine. They had consulted the royal diviner who chose this place as it had a mountain to the north, a river to the east, a great road to the west and an opening to the south.
Walking up towards the first bridge might find that both sides of the larger stone bridge are closed off by a red gate. This is because this bridge was reserved for the Shogunate only. The common folk needed to use a flatter bridge on either side to access the shrine. Despite the fact that the shogun of Kamakura is long dead the tradition remains as a memory to him. To the left of the shogun bridge, stands an ancient plum pine tree.
After crossing the bridge, walk out onto the pond towards the Hataage Benzaiten Shrine. This can be found to the right of the entrance. A series of white flags mark this shrine. Each of these flags is a prayer left by visitors. If you wish to purchase your own flag to leave on the island you can purchase one near the shrine. If you have google translate downloaded on your phone you can use this to help translate some of the prayers left behind. Like a wave of wishes blowing in the wind.
As you continue down the complex, you’ll see a large crossing on either side of you. This is the ancient archery track. This was where the traditional Yabusame Shinto ritual would take place. This Shinto ritual would occur once a year. All the best samurai would come here to compete against each other for the glory of the shogun. They would mount their hoses and attempt to shoot three targets while riding at full speed down the track.
The event was started when the new Shogun realized that his archers lacked skills with their bow. He thought this would give them a good incentive to practice. Even today, a festival is held yearly in the fall where people dress in costume and perform the ritual just the great samurai would have years ago.
The building at the base of the stairs is called the Maiden or Shimoden. The most famous woman in Japanese history and literature was a Shizuka Gozen or Lady Shizuka. She was a court dancer and mistress of Minamoto no Yoshitsune. Shizuka Gozen devoted herself to Minamoto and would dance for him with a passion that would entrance all those who watched. Famously, she would come here to perform some of her most memorable productions. Today, the Maiden is still a popular spot for dances and musical performances. As well as weddings and festivals which are held here throughout the year.
Every morning at the Maiden, people gather to offer rice, sake, vegetables, fruits, and other offerings to Hachiman. Locals come to pray for the prosperity of the Imperial Family and the nation. This ritual is called onikkusai.
In addition to paying your respects to Hachiman okami, you can also come to pray for the safety of your family and the health of your body.
Off to the left of the Maiden, you’ll see a large structure filled with giant sake barrels. Different sake producers will donate large sums of money to the shrines in order to ensure good fortune for their companies. These barrels are only ceremonial and do not contain any real sake but they are still such a beautiful thing to look at.
On the eastern side of the lower level, you will find the Shirahata Shrine, also called the Junior Shrine. This is where the spirit of Minamoto Yoritomo and Minamoto Sanetomo are enshrined. The dark wood of the shrine is painted black and embellished with gold trim. Many people come to this shrine to pray for victory in honour of the great shogun.
Right beside the shrine, you’ll find the Masako stones. When you pour water on the rocks, an image of a turtle or a crane will appear. Both the crane and the turtle represent longevity as it is fabled that cranes and turtles have life spans of thousands of years. Pour some water on the rocks to pray for some life longevity for yourself!
On the western side of the complex, you’ll find this old, seemingly forgotten building. This is the Soreisha, the shrine dedicated to the ancestor spirits. Many people seem to miss this building and it is one of the most peaceful areas of the place. It is a newer shrine, erected in 1949. The spirits which are said to reside here are thought to protect the land and people come here to pray for their own protection.
The staircase leading to the main shrine is flanked on either side by two trees. But you might notice that the one on the left is significantly smaller. This was once where a great ginkgo tree once stood for over 1000 years. It was a precious treasure of the nation and a holy place for pilgrims.
In March 2010, a huge storm came through and uprooted the tree. Although great efforts were made to replant it, the tree could not be saved in its entirety. Because the tree was so important, the trunk was replanted in the hopes it would reproduce leaves (which it since has). Other cuttings were also replanted, and they have even begun to multiply and regrown.
The tree was said to have played a large part in the assassination of shōgun Minamoto no Sanetomo in 1219. The assassin, his nephew, hid in the tree as his uncle was leaving the shrine. When he walked down the stairs, his nephew jumped from the tree and attacked. He thought this act would enable him to become the next Shogun, but the public didn’t support his succession, and instead, he was beheaded the same day for his actions.
The large stairway leading up to the main shrine contains 61 steps. 61 in an interesting number as it is thought to be unlucky. Perhaps the uprooting of the tree and the assassination were both brought about by the unlucky omens of the stairs.
As you climb the stairs, you pass through the Sakura Gate to enter the main shrine, the Jogu. This building was recently renovated in the 21st century when the previously plain wood was repainted in this bright vermillion. The main shrine enshrines Emperor Ojin, Himegami and Empress Jingu.
On the front of the shrine is a black sign with gold lettering. The Japanese character at the top represents a dove which is the messenger used by the deity Hachiman.
At most shrines you can buy an ema, a wood plaque, to leave your prayers on. The emas at this shrine are printed with the image of the great ginkgo tree.
You can also get yourself a souvenir omikuji or random paper fortune outside the shrine. You can get on here for 200 yen that comes with your fateful prediction as well as a dove charm in honour of the deity Hachiman. When you open the fortune, should it be unlucky, fold the paper in a thin strip and place it inside the nearby “bad luck box.” Place your hand around the arrow above the box as this is said to help remove the bad luck.
The main shrine is separated into three areas, the main sanctuary, the treasure hall and the worship hall, each connected through long hallways. The Treasure Hall is located on the west side of the main sancutary and contains sacred items from the history of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. This is the only part of the temple complex which requires admission (200 yen).
Inside, you can find such things as samurai swords from the 18th century, black lacquer arrows, 19th-century bows and quivers, and a series of ceremonial kimonos.
On the western side of the Jogu, you will find the Senior Shrine, the Maruyama Inari Shrine. This is the oldest remaining shrine on the grounds. Standing guard outside this part of the shrine we find the Inari who are kami foxes. Kami are Japanese spirits. The fox spirits are thought to bring fertility to the land and are often seen as the spirits of agriculture.
To the right of the shrine, you’ll find a series of torii gates. Walking down the hillside through the torii gates will lead you back down to the lower level. The flags which appear in front of the torii gates have been purchased by those who pray for prosperity in their businesses. These are often the most costly prayers and only large companies are featured here.
Before leaving, take a seat in the rest area just opposite the large pond. During certain times of the year, purple wisteria grows all over the canopy. This beautiful scene is the perfect place to end your time at the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.
As you start to head back to the train station, we walk down the pedestrian walkway or dankazura. The Dankazura is a stunning alley flanked on either side by beautiful sakura trees and brightly coloured flower gardens.
At the end of the alley, you come to the Ni no Torii, the final torii gate. On either side of this torii gate are two large guardian lion-dogs. The one on the left has its mouth open forming the Sanskrit letter “A”. On the other hand, the one right has its mouth closed forming the sound of the Sanskrit letter “MA”. Together the lions are attempting to sound out “Aum” which is a sacred sound and mantra practiced in Buddhism.
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