This is a story about not always believing what you read online. Which sounds a little counterintuitive for someone who writes an online travel journal. But this is a lesson for everyone to read past the surface. Be curious and think a little deeper before crossing something off your list simply because it seemingly doesn’t have great reviews. On my last trip to Provence, we travelled through the village of Cavaillon. Had I simply read the reviews and passed this venture over, I would have missed out on perhaps the best market experiences I had throughout my travels to Provence!
In Provence, almost every town, no matter how small, will host a weekly market. These happen in each city on one specific day throughout the week. And by far, the least popular day for these markets is Mondays. We had been hoping to gather a few bits and bobs for a picnic on the water, and when looking up our route to the Pont du Gard, the only town with a Monday market was Cavaillon.
The Reviews
Like I always do, I tried to research a bit more into the market before we left. Mainly to find out where to park and the opening hours of the market. But, I was shocked to find that the few reviews of this market I came across were pretty awful…
“If you’re looking for a Provencal atmosphere, go elsewhere.”
“The Cavaillon market is large; it is not geared towards tourists. Many stalls sell cheap fabric for making ethnic clothing, knockoff shoes and hats, cheap utensils, etc.”
“Market mainly for clothes and objects such as bags, glasses…in short, nothing to do with a Provençal market. Very few vegetable merchants, and when this is the case, few French products. A rather surprising market for a town like Cavaillon.”
I was blown away; I had never had a negative experience like the ones they talked about anywhere in Provence. Even the Luberon tourism website lists the market as “the least charming market of the Luberon.” And honestly, perhaps this made me want to go even more. So I could check it out for myself. To see if it really was as bad as they all mentioned. But what we found when we got there was probably the friendliest market we visited in Provence!
Location
Cavaillon is a town worth a visit, regardless of the market. The adorable village is located in the heart of Provence. Situated at the foot of the Luberon Mountains. Cavaillon is blessed with a stunning natural setting. From the minute you arrive in the village, you can see the mountains right there in front of you. It’s nice to finally see them up close, especially if you’ve been driving past these mountains for much of your travels. They are truly stunning close-up!
The market will bring you into the heart of Cavaillon’s old town, with its narrow streets and centuries-old buildings exuding an undeniable medieval charm. As you wander the village, you’ll see beautiful stone houses adorned with colourful shutters and flower-filled balconies. The historic center is dominated by the Cathedrale Saint Veran, an imposing Romanesque church that dates back to the 12th century. A prominent landmark and well worth a visit after you finish touring the market.
Parking
Like with every Market in Provence, parking is usually the biggest hurdle to get over before starting your shopping adventure. The earlier you arrive, the better, as parking will be more and more limited as the day goes on.
The best and most convenient place to park is outside the Tourist Information Centre. If this lot is full, you can always find some open-street parking. This might require a bit of driving around. We arrived at 10:30 am (well past my recommended arrival time of 9 am), but even despite this, we managed to find parking on the street after only a few minutes.
If you’re worried about driving around and around, you can always opt to park at the Intermarche Parking lots located about a 15-minute walk from the historic centre. It’s a beautiful walk towards the market, where you’ll see the city’s charming architecture enfold in front of you.
The Monday Cavaillon Market
The Cavaillon Market occurs every Monday morning starting at 8 am, with market traders cleaning up around 12:30 pm. The market spills out in every direction, centring around the Hotel de Ville. Visit Place Philippe de Cabassole, Rue Agricol Perdiguier, Rue Joseph Guis, Place Fernand Lombard, Rue Aimé Boussot, Cours Bournissac and Place François Tourel to find over 180 different booths. Each one displaying a vibrant array of the best of Provence’s seasonal produce.
Despite not being geared towards tourists, everyone took so much time to introduce themselves to us and explain the different produce they had on offer. We tasted cheese, olives, nuts and honey. All free of charge with no expectation of us buying anything. They were patient with my sub-par French, and everyone greeted us with a smile. A nice older gentleman approached my dad, offering him a flyer about the election, assuming he was a Frenchman. When my dad responded to him in English, the man laughed and ended up chatting with us for a few minutes as he was curious about what brought us to this market.
Navigating the Market
If you enter the market via the tourist information centre, you’ll notice that most of the market you can see (at first) is mainly cut-price clothing. This can put some people off as it looks more like a swap-meet than a Provencal Market. But once you get closer to the Hotel De Ville, you’ll start seeing more local producers. And those iconic striped awnings and wooden fruit crates begin to welcome you into the smells of Provencal fruits and vegetables. Perhaps some of those negative reviewers never made it past the clothing booths…
We found fresh lavender honey, marinade olives, and colourful fruits that looked like gleaming gemstones! One of our favourite finds was the rotisserie chicken and frites stall. The kids loved the fries and devoured the entire container over the course of our shopping trip. We were introduced to all kinds of Provencal sausages and even found creme and custard-filled donuts. These were one of our favourite desserts of the whole trip!
The major complaint I think I understand the reviewers were angry about is that this market doesn’t sell Provence “souvenirs“. There are no lavender sachets, Provencial tea towels or soap from Marseille. This market is primarily for the local community. So yes, there is cut-price clothing and bargain products for sale, in addition to fresh produce vendors. But Provence, like all parts of every country, needs to cater to their low-income communities. As well as everyone else.
Personally, I felt lucky to be able to explore this market. For a day, I felt I was as much a Provencal resident as anyone else there! They accepted me with open arms and made me feel so welcome.
The Famed Cavaillon Melon
One thing you absolutely need to buy in Cavaillon is their famous “Melon de Cavaillon.” In fact, this melon first put Cavaillion on the map in the 19th century. Back then, the railroads had first arrived in Provence, which meant more produce could easily be shipped out from even the smallest cities to the rest of France. People were enamoured by this delectable fruit, and soon everyone knew the name Cavaillon.
The village’s ideal climate and fertile soil creates the perfect conditions for growing these sweet and juicy fruits. They get a whopping 300 days of sunshine in the fields! The Cavaillion melon is grown from May to September, and all growers hand-pick each one to ensure it does not get damaged. The taste of these melons is so sweet but with just the gentlest hint of acidity, making it miles better than any “cantaloupe” I’ve ever had. To tell if you’re melon is ready to eat, you simply smell the navel of the melon, where the steam would grow. It should have a strong melon scent; if it doesn’t, you know it’s not ready to eat.
In July, a huge festival is held for the lauded fruit. 100 Camargue horses, ridden by the Confrérie des Chevaliers de l’Ordre du Melon de Cavaillon, troop across the city. These “knights” are more like farmers whose duties include inspecting the authenticity of true Cavaillion melons, it’s density, sugar content, and appearance. The whole city gets in on the action, decorating businesses and gardens to be themed after this green-striped, honeysuckle-coloured fruit.
What to See In Cavaillon After the Market
Roman Triumphal Arch
After we had gathered all the supplies and food we needed for our picnic, we thought it would behoove us to explore the city a little further. We were so pleased to find a beautiful (and well-intact) Roman Triumphal arch, almost standing in the middle of the tourist information parking lot. Many cities across Provence are home to incredible Roman antiquities and architecture. It is almost a better place to come than Rome to see these Roman ruins. Cavaillion is home to a Gallo-Roman era 1st-century triumphal arch. One can only wonder what the amazing Roman city it was welcoming guests inside would have looked like…
The arch consisting of two semicircular arches supported by four pillars. The pillars have decorative pilasters adorned with foliage and topped with capitals featuring acanthus leaves. The base of the pilasters is embellished with large acanthus leaves as well. Cornices with oval friezes serve as the foundation for the arches. The front arch displays an archivolt embellished with a frieze of acanthus leaves, and above it are spandrels adorned with winged deities known as genii, wearing crowns (the left spandrel is better preserved than the right one). The inner sides of the arches are decorated with boxes featuring rosette designs.
Cathedrale Saint Veran
Another hidden gem of Cavillon is the Cathédrale Saint Véran. This architectural masterpiece blends Romanesque and Gothic styles. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Véran, the patron saint of shepherds. Construction of the cathedral took place from the 11th to the 13th century. The addition of the name “Beate Marie beatique Verani” came about in 1228 when part of Saint Véran’s body was transferred to the cathedral. The cathedral suffered damage and restoration throughout history, including destruction by Protestant troops in 1562. Its simple stone exterior starkly contrasts the rich baroque decorations you find within.
Chapelle St Jacques
Saint-Jacques Hill is located above the city of Cavaillon. And one clear day, you can see the ancient Chapelle St Jacques roof. If you are feeling up to it, you can walk up the stairs and pathways that winds up the hill to the top, where you are rewarded with an incredible view over Cavaillon. During Antiquity, the Celtic-Ligurian tribe known as the Cavares established a provincial town on the hill overlooking the Durance River.
The area’s urbanization began in the 5th century, with settlements on the mountain and at its foot, including a river port. The hill was later renamed Saint-Jacques in the 12th century due to the presence of a chapel. The hermitage was established in 1300 and later became home to the Fathers of Christian Doctrine congregation in the 16th century. The hermitage underwent restoration in the 19th century and again in 1992. This spot it the perfect place to have your picnic, as the views are unmatched! You can even see if you can spot a few melon fields off in the distance!
The Cavaillon Market truly holds hidden treasures waiting to be discovered! I was so happy to have ignored the negative reviews and explored this place for myself. And therein, I unearthed the essence and charm of this bustling market, showcasing its vibrant atmosphere, delectable culinary delights, and diverse range of local produce. So, if you’re looking to immerse yourself in Provence’s authentic flavours and culture, make sure to add Cavaillon Market to your travel itinerary.
Happy Travels, Adventurers
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