When to Visit

In 2023 the Keukenhof will be open daily from 23 March – 14 May from 08:00 – 19:30.

The best time to visit the Keukenhof is before 10:30 am or after 4 pm, this is when the least tourists will be in the park and you’ll have more of the flowers all to yourself. PLUS, the morning sunrise and afternoon sunset provides an incredible backdrop to the rainbow of flowers. If you can avoid going on a weekend, this is also preferable if you’re trying to avoid crowds.

Keukenhof Tickets

Since the park is only open for a few months tickets can sell! Especially if you’re visiting over the weekend or on a holiday you’ll want to be sure to buy your tickets in advance. I would advise buying online either way since it means less time spent in line at the ticket office when you arrive.

Adults cost €19,00 in advance and children are €9,00, kids under 3 are free. But the best thing to do is buy a Combi Ticket which combines your transportation with your admission. The prices are different depending on where you’re departing from, but they range from €30-€35. The bus will drop you off at the main entrance to the gardens so it couldn’t be more convenient!

History of the Keukenhof

The Keukenhof gardens were first established in the 15th century on what was then a substantial hunting ground. The name ‘Keukenhof’ means Court Kitchen in Dutch as the fields once served as a giant herb garden for the Queen’s castle. Throughout the years, the various members of the royal family who inherited the manor continued to expand the garden, and in the 19th century, the Baron and Baroness Van Pallandt hired Jan David Zocher, a renowned landscape architect, to re-design it to create the unique and luscious garden the Netherlands had ever seen.

As time went on, the gardens were bought by the city, and in 1949 the Mayor of Lisse decided to open them up to the public. He held an exhibit of flowers from all over the Netherlands and Europe. People were able to see, and smell, hybrid flowers not available in their local markets. They walked through incredible floral landscapes created by illustrious Dutch landscape architects. 

Keukenhof Flowers

Since its opening in 1949, the Keukenhof has held the title as the world’s largest flower garden as well as being the most photographed place on the earth. Today it houses more than 100 varieties of tulips, more than 2,500 trees in 87 types and 15 kilometres of walking paths. To date more than 44 million visitors over the last 60 years have strolled through this real-life Wonderland. In 2018, Keukenhof’s theme will be Romance in Flowers. 

Dutch Tulips

The tulips are the main feature of the flower garden. Tulips were first brought to Europe in the 16th century and caught on in popularity in the Netherlands. Tulips were able to stand the harsh temperatures and conditions in the Netherlands more than many other internationally imported flowers. Due to their resilience, Dutch botanists became avid collectors and even started to breed new varieties. Soon, everyone wanted a tulip garden of their own. Tulips became a status symbol for anyone who planted or who carried a bouquet as they walked down the street. Today they have become somewhat ubiquitous, but in the 17th century, they were worth their weight in gold.

Varieties of Tulips

There are different groups and breeds of Dutch tulips. One is called the Couleren, which refers to the red, yellow or white coloured tulips. Then there is then Rosen, which are bright red or white with veining on the petals. The Violetten are the purple or lilac tulips, my personal favourite. 

And finally, and best named, is the Bizarden, which are tulip with odd or eccentric appearances. They tend to be brown with purpled or yellow veins running across a jagged petal. A virus was known to infect these tulips during growth and was called the mosaic virus which made the tulips bloom in vibrant colours sometimes with flame-like streaks across the petals. Although it was a virus, it was one that botanists cultivated since those features were more and more desired by buyers for their bizarre appearance. 

Access to the Keukenhof

To get to the Keukenhof there a few different ways of arriving depending on where and how you’re travelling.

Driving

The Keukenhof is located in the village of Lisse, which is in itself, a charming Dutch village with hundreds of flower fields colouring the countryside. If you’re renting a car while in the Netherlands you can park right at the park for €6. But you must pre-purchased parking ticket.

Driving into the Keukenhof is a great idea since it gives you the ability to drive around the surrounding village to see the farmers fields where they grow all the flowers for the Keukenhof. You can buy your parking pass online when buying your tickets or at the entry to the park.

Public transport

We used the Netherlands’ amazing public transport system to access the park. The best way to figure out your journey is by using the public transport website to map your route. Most people will be accessing the Keukenhof from Amsterdam. The best way to get there is by purchasing the combi-ticket for the gardens which includes your transport and entry to the park. There are two options for the combi-ticket.

The first option costs € 25 and covers the costs of THE BUS ONLY from Schiphol Airport to the park. Which means you’ll be responsible for payment to the airport. This is especially convenient if you are travelling to the Keukenhof directly from the airport. If you are travelling from the city, you’ll want option two, which costs € 30 and provides return access from Amsterdam. The combi-ticket gives you access to the special bus services which runs from Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, Leiden station or Haarlem directly to the Keukenhof entrance.

Tour Company

There are many tour companies which offer tours of the Keukenhof. These tour companies tend to be a bit rigid on time and sometimes feel a bit impersonally but I know that for some nervous or older travellers, the removal of multiple forms of transport or excessive planning is worth the trade-off. Viator offers many tours of the Keukenhof which also combine views of the surrounding coutryside. With over 200 5-star reviews you really can’t go wrong if this is the kind of experience you’re looking for.

By Taxi

For those travellers I mentioned previously who might have certain issues with public transport but who don’t want to deal with the time constraints of bus tours there is also taxis and uber. These cost between €50-€70 depending on where you’re departing from for a one-way journey. While costly, I think it’s important to provide this information to show inclusivity for all kinds of travellers.

Keukenhof Theme 2023

The theme of 2023’s Keukenhof is Flower Classics. There isn’t much more information released to the public yet but no doubt going back to the classics will bring lots of favourite designs from over the years.

Guide to Exploring the Keukenhof

As soon as we stepped through the door, we were amazed by the colours and the overwhelmingly Dutch atmosphere of the gardens. There was an old wooden crank organ sitting in the front beside the entry fountain and the bright, rosy-cheeked Dutch boys and girls playing their instruments welcomed us inside.

Exploring the Gardens

Before setting out right away, take the provided map to study up and plan your preferred route. There are picnic tables near the entrance, a perfect place to enjoy a morning meal. Although there are a few snack stalls, I would advise stopping by a local bakery before arriving and then eating a little picnic in the gardens. You can eat while watching the other people pass by, smiles on their faces as they took in all the jewel-toned flowers spread out around them.

Orjanje Nassau Pavilion

Every week a flower show is organized in the Orjanje Nassau Pavilion. This is a great place to come to not only see some amazing display but also learn a little bit about native Dutch flowers.

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Hedge Maze

The hedge garden and maze was a lot of fun. We wove in between the thick bushes, discovering sinuous sculptures dotting the area. As we strolled through the garden, we found a small petting zoo with tiny horses and cows. Children were laughing as they reached their hands over the edge to pet the fuzzy little creatures.

The Windmill

Then, it was off to visit the main feature of this Dutch Disneyland; the Windmill. We climbed up the windmill to get a better look out over the fields where the tulips are initially grown before getting moved to the gardens.

As we climbed down, we took a moment to try on a few pairs of wooden clogs. The exhibit in front compared different ancient clogs to their modern-day equivalent.

Orchid Greenhouse

Our next stop took us away from the array of tulips and into the Orchid building. Orchids are amazing flowers. They look so strange and almost otherworldly. 

Red Romance Garden

Leaving the orchid, you can step into the Red Romance Garden. We passed by what can only be described as a “Barbie’s Dream Greenhouse”. The bright pink and red flowers were almost blinding. I had never seen anything like that before. Thank goodness we brought our sunglasses!

Japanese Garden

Tulips are the main attraction, but there is also a Japanese garden, a sculpture garden and even a lily pad garden where they added fake lily pads underwater that you could walk on. They sat just below the water, so the children playing appeared as if they were walking on water. 

People seemed to come here not just to see the flower but to be inspired by them. A man had his easel out and had just begun to sketch out his next masterpiece as we passed by.

Keukenhof By Drone

If you’re looking for a way to view the gardens from above this amazing drone video gives you an idea of just how big these gardens are!

The Keukenhof Parade

The Keukenhof parade is an annual event that takes place in the beautiful gardens of Keukenhof, the best garden in Europe. In 2023, visitors can expect a lively and colorful display of floats, music, and performers. The parade route winds its way through the breathtaking gardens, providing a unique and unforgettable experience for all who attend. With its vibrant atmosphere and mesmerizing displays, the Keukenhof parade is the perfect way to celebrate the beauty of spring and the arrival of new growth. The date for the parade is Saturday 22 April 2023. This date books up very far in advance so be sure to check online immediately to grab your tickets ASAP!

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Keukenhof is a truly breathtaking and unique destination that should be on every traveler’s bucket list. With its beautiful flower displays, rich history, and breathtaking landscapes, it’s no wonder why it’s considered the best garden in Europe. Whether you’re a nature lover, photographer, or simply looking for a peaceful escape, Keukenhof has something to offer everyone. So pack your bags, grab your camera, and start planning your visit to this must-see destination in the Netherlands!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Keukenhof, the Best Garden in Europe [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

When we were visiting Tokyo during Cherry Blossom season, we had heard that this park was one of the best places to come to enjoy the last of the season. The sakura had bloomed early this year, and we were hoping we might be in luck to find some trees with a few petals still clinging to the buds when we arrived. Lucky for us the park is home to a variety of different sakura trees which are known to bloom throughout the spring.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Hours and Admission
3. Accessibility
4. History
5. Design of the Gardens
6. French Formal Gardens
7. English Landscape Garden
8. Variety of Sakura Trees
9. Shinjuku Gyoen Throughout the Seasons
10. Greenhouse
11. Where to Eat?
12. Rakuu-tei

Access

The garden has three separate entrances around the park to make it easy to enter from various parts of the city. The largest gate (Shinjuku Gate) is located 10-minutes from the Shinjuku JR station or five minutes from Shinjukugyoenmae Station. The Okido Gate, is located farther east on the north side five minutes from Shinjukugyoenmae Station. There is one last gate (Sendagaya Gate) located on the south side. This gate is accessible from the nearby JR Sendagaya Station.

Hours and Admission

To enter this park, you do need to pay an admission fee. This means the park is much less crowded. Admission costs 500 yen. The gardens are open from 7:00 am if you come in from the Shinjuku Gate. The other two gates only allow access starting at 9:00 am. The park closes at 4:30 pm, with the last admission at 4:00 pm. The park is closed on Mondays for maintenance. During cherry blossom season and chrysanthemum festivals, the gardens remain open 7 days a week due to the overwhelming popularity.

Accessibility

If you require accessible access, exit through Shinjuku Station or Shinjukusanchome Station. These stations do not require walking up to any stairs or escalators. From there, head over to the Shinjuku Gate. Once you pass through the admission gate, you will be provided with a map in the language of your choice. The map is wonderfully clear in identifying wheelchair-friendly areas. Great effort was taken in ensuring the part is friendly for those with disabilities. There are various washrooms in the park which are accessible. The map also points out pathways which are easier to traverse in a wheelchair or any areas of difficult terrains (such as gravel or steeper slopes).

History

Initially, the park wasn’t owned by the city; it was private property. The shōgun bequeathed the land to Lord Naitō, who built a grand garden onto his palace in 1772. Over the years, the gardens passed hands, down from a private residence to an agriculture centre to a public botanical garden in 1879. The garden’s original layout was destroyed during the air raids of WWII. After the war, much effort was taken to restore and rebuilt the park back to its original design.

Design of the Gardens

The Shinjuku Gyoen garden is spread over 58.3 hectares! The gardens were designed in three distinct styles: French formal, English landscape and Japanese traditional. The Japanese Garden is decorated with a series of large reflecting ponds. Connecting the different areas of the garden across the pond are various large stones, gravel pathways and an iconic Japanese bridge.

You’ll find a large structure called the Kyu-Goryotei or the “old palace” in the center of the Japanese garden. This building is, oddly enough, designed in Chinese-style. This is because it was donated by the Japanese residents of Taiwan for the imperial wedding celebrations. Today, it a favourite place for photographs as you look out at the beautiful pond on the other side.

Take a closer look at the pond and see if you can spot some of the carp which are stocked in the water. Carp symbolizes the Japanese fighting spirit due to their hardy nature. You can also see if you can see any of the many turtles, sunbathing on the rocks around the pond.

French Formal Gardens

The Formal French Gardens are dominated by perfect beds of roses surrounded by the Avenue of Sycamore trees. Sycamore trees are native to central, eastern and southern Europe, having been introduced by the Romans. There are eight hundred feet of roses with varieties all originating outside of Japan.

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English Landscape Garden

The English Landscape Garden features this large open lawn surrounded by cherry blossom trees. This area is a favourite for children to run freely and play on the manicured grass.

There are over 20,000 trees to be found inside the park. You can spot tall Himalayan cedars, tulip trees, cypresses, as well as a stock of 1,700 tropical pants inside the greenhouse. Of the 20,000 trees found here, 1,500 of which are Japanese cherry blossom trees.

Variety of Sakura Trees

What makes this park a little different is that there are different varieties of cherry blossom trees. Some areas only have one kind which means there is only one opportunity to see the flowers. Having different species means the trees bloom at different times of the year. This ensures that people can enjoy the season in the park for a more extended period.

Weeping Cherry Tree

The Weeping Cherry tree is the first to bloom in early March. By far, these trees are the most dramatic. Their flowers delicately covering the long tendrils, reaching towards the the ground. 

Somei Cherry Trees

Then there are the Tokyo Cherry or Somei trees. These are most commonly found in Tokyo prefecture and start blooming in early April. This is the most popular species you’ll find all over the city. The variety has only five petals and is pale pink in colour. From afar these flowers almost appear to be white.

Kanzan Cherry Trees

The final kind of tree found in the park is the Kanzan Cherry trees. These are the last to bloom in late April. These are my favourite variety. They are known for their “double blossom.” There are as many as 50 petals on each of these flowers. They are a deep pink colour and have the most fantastic contrast against the bright blue sky. 

Shinjuku Gyoen Throughout the Seasons

Springtime

Springtime is the most popular time to visit the park as this is when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Since the park is so large though even at the busiest times, you never feel too overwhelmed. Bring your picnic blankets and relax here under the precious petals.

Summer

In the summertime, the garden blooms with hydrangeas, one of the most popular seasonal flowers. Also in the summertime, you can wander around the French garden which is covered in an efflorescence of blooming roses!

Fall

Outside of Sakura season, the most popular time to visit is during the park is during the chrysanthemum festival. This festival has been running since 1929 and is a very popular event for the locals. The festival usually runs for two weeks beginning in November, but it depends on the flowers’ blossoming time.

In the Autumn, all the trees change colour and create a magical sunset-toned wave across the sky. The most beautiful of which is the maple trees which have been planted here, which turn a deep autumnal red. The contrast of the red against the rest of the green tree is truly stunning.

Winter

Even in the wintertime, there are plenty of flowers to see. The camellia and the white narcissus are blooming in December and January. And in February, you’ll find the Japanese apricot and witch hazel trees abloom.

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Greenhouse

Right beside the Ookido Gate, you’ll find the large greenhouse. This greenhouse is home to many different tropical plants which bloom all year round. So even if there isn’t anything budding outside, you can always find something to look at in here. The interior feels like a jungle, with wild plants growing up to the ceiling and their leaves hanging down around you. The greenhouse is divided into different regional plants, so you can travel around the world in this one little building.

Where to Eat?

While there are some lovely restaurants in the surrounding area, the best thing to do inside the park brings a picnic! During cherry blossom season, this is called having a “hanami party” or sakura watching party. But it doesn’t need to be springtime to have a picnic. Just head down to your local konbini to pick up a variety of foods, ready to eat, and layout on a blanket to enjoy the beauty of the surroundings. Remember, there is no drinking or bringing in alcohol into this park.

Rakuu-tei

If you haven’t brought any food with you, there are a few different rest houses and cafes dotted throughout the park. These are not always open, so be sure to check with the gate attendant to see which ones are serving customers. The Rakuu-tei (tea house) is a great place to have a cup of traditional macha inside a traditional tea room. This building is located beside the old plum trees in the Japanese garden. Here you can take a moment of relaxation as you enjoy a spot of tea with a seasonal Japanese sweets. The drink set will cost 700 yen, which is steep, but it’s all about the experience. If you’ve never had a tea set inside a garden-side tea room before this is your chance!

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Shinjuku Gyoen is the perfect place to escape to if you feel like the crowded and busy nature of the city is getting to you. Shinjuku is one of the most populated parts of the city and the fact this peaceful oasis is hidden in the middle of it is fantastic. Be sure to pay this place a visit to find a moment of zen in your busy travel schedule.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

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If you’re anywhere close to Sintra in your travels through Portugal, don’t miss out on visiting this fantastic place. This guide can be used both in conjunction with my ‘Day Trip to Sintra Guide,’ or if you’re just interested in visiting this one castle, it’s a great in-depth walkthrough of all the different historical details and artistic aspects of the Palace and Gardens.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. When to Visit Pena Palace
3. Access, Hours & Admission
4. History of Pena Palace
5. Arches Yard
6. Wall Walk
7. Interior of the Palace
8. Entry Doorway
9. Queen’s Terrace
10. Cafe and Restaurant
11. Gardens of Pena Park

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

When to Visit Pena Palace

Pena Palace is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the best chance you’ll have to see a small reduction in groups. Avoid holidays when possible as these bring in the Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue.

Access, Hours & Admission

There are two (well three) options for getting to the palace. The first is to take the public buses which are located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services Pena Palace. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, and that slows things down and bit. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Taking an Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can really save you some money, and if there is a big line up for the bus, it can save you some time as well. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code rds9f to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a pretty long journey, but if you’re keen to do some hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates for 9:30 am.

While the entry gates are located just off the roadside, the palace itself is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting in between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

Admission Options

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

Hours

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

How Much Time to Spend?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entirety of the acres and acres the gardens are spread out across you could be here all day, but to visit the entirety of the Palace and a general tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long this will obviously add to your time spent there.

If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on in the day. Sometimes if a huge tour bus drops off a few busloads just waiting for those groups to disappear is a great plan to avoid having to wait in line with them.

Is it Really Worth Visiting?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entire garden, which is spread out across acres and acres, you could be here all day, but to visit the whole of the palace and a comprehensive tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long, this will obviously add to your time spent here. If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Architecture

There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

After the death of Ferdinand, the castle was inherited by his second wife, Elise Hensler, who became Countess of Edla. The Countess, under pressure from the crown, sold the estate back to the royal family with the one condition that she could continue to live there until her death. King Carlos, next in line to the throne, was the last member of the royal family to live in the palace. After his assassination, his son, Manuel II, became the last King of Portugal and his wife, Queen Amélia, was the last person who stayed in the palace until the republican regime brought an end to the Portuguese crown.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

The Coach Yard

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Azulejos

Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, date back to the 13th century. They were brought here by the Moors who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone”.

In Islam, they believed in aniconism, which is the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor and as such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition.

Arches Yard

Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. The small passageway is where you’ll find the restrooms which are also covered in traditional tile work. The Arches Yard is framed by a wall of graceful, golden arches done up in Moorish style. The arches create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to, it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the wealthy estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the Queen of pop herself! Sintra truly is still to this day where the rich and famous come to escape the city and to live in some of the most lavish properties found anywhere in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view, and look across towards one of the incredibly ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was directly inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded in alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Chapel

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The steeple of the chapel is embellished with white and emerald green tiles which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey in our case) sky.

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove is the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions which he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Remnants of the Monastery

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design are so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church, it seemed most people skipped it as they were in a rush in those group tours, but I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty all around me.

Wall Walk

Just down the stairs from the chapel is the Wall Walk, a small passage which leads you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most unbelievable views across Sintra.

Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest. It seems so far away, and yet the entrance to the Moorish Castle is just on the other side of Pena Park.

Interior of the Palace

If you bought a ticket to enter the interior, make your way inside. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it as soon as you enter when the line is bound to be shorter or if it seems rather long, skip it and make your way towards the gardens, with the intention to return here later in the day. The palace is made up of two separate wings. They are distinguishable by their paint colours. Ochre for the new wing and burnt red for the old monastic side.

Entry Doorway

A stunningly embellished door, surrounded in carved florals now serves as the way in for visitors to the palace. This was the entrance formerly used by the Royal Family, providing access to the palace’s most private areas. This building was once the Hieronymite monastery, and although the spaces were converted from simple rooms for prayer into luxurious royal residences, the bones of the original structure remain the same.

The Hieronymite Convent Cloister

As you enter, you’ll step right into the cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both floors of the palace. The entirety of this place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above. The centre of the cloister has a giant carving of a shell in the centre which is held up by four little turtles. The open shell represents a womb, as this little scene is an allegory for the vegetal world giving birth to the aquatic underworld. Like the wealthy Portuguese Kings who, with their finances, gave birth to the world’s best seafaring explorers.

Scullery

The scullery is the first room you’ll enter from the outside cloister. In large, dark wood cabinets along the walls are porcelain and crystal flatware from the Royal collection. Set up on one table just to the right of the entry door is a sample of what their tea sets would look like. Tiny, little cups and plates in the shape of seashells are ready for a hot pot of tea and finger sandwiches.

Dining Room

One of the most impressive rooms you’ll see on the first floor is the dining room. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined in tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs. The rainbow coloured glassware still catching the light white pours through the windows. Even from the other side of the room, you can see how truly amazing the view from the interior really is.

King Carlos’ Bedrooms

After the death of King Ferdinand II, the palace passed hands several times but eventually became the residences of King Carlos and his wife Dona Améli in 1890. The bedrooms and apartments on the lower floors belonged to King Carlos. These apartments were initially the former Chapter House of the Manueline monastery. They were used by King Ferdinand II as his servants quarters, but King Carlos actually preferred this more modest setting and left the upper more elaborate apartments for his wife. King Carlos’ bedroom is decorated in dark wood, with bright green accents. The Empire style was an early-nineteenth-century design movement which was inspired by Neoclassicism and Romanticism, and each piece of furniture in this room was designed within that style. On the walls, there are splendidly painted emotional landscapes, and throughout the room, classical sculptures of attractive women of mythology make almost any spectator blush.

King Carlos’ Studio

The reverie continues into King Carlos’ studio. Here we find a mural painted across the entire room of nymphs and satyrs playing in the Park of Pena. This painting is believed to have been painted by the King himself, who was obsessed with filling his private quarters in these fantastical scenes.

King Carlos’ Bathroom

Pena Palace was one of the first royal residences to have sanitation facilities specifically designed for personal hygiene. Despite being a bathroom, the room is nevertheless filled with decorative garnishes. The bathrooms are filled with luxurious furniture and lined top to bottom in the most exceptional tile work.

The Interior Niche

A small corner niche which you’ll see before going upstairs contains one of the oldest treasures of the former Monastery. This little niche features a mosaic wall decorated with shells, stones and porcelain pieces. Since it was transformed into a simple storeroom, there was no need to remove the old decor to make way for more modern decorations therein preserving its history for the modern era.

Bedroom of the Queen’s Secretary and Ladies-in-Waiting

Next, we head upstairs to find Queen Amélia’s apartments. The first room we enter is the bedroom of the Queen’s ladies in waiting. Initially, when King Ferdinand II lived here with Countess of Edla, this room was a small dressing room, but when Queen Amélia moved in, she required more space for her servants and noblewomen. One of the most beautiful objects in the room is the Indo-Portuguese rosewood bed, carved to perfection like the wood was made from butter. Above the bed are plastered a knotted row of branches which blossom with hundreds of pine cones so lifelike you’ll think they might fall down upon your head.

The Queen’s Withdrawing Room

The yellow room adjacent is the Queen’s Withdrawing Room. It features a stunning bunting of plaster roses which hang from the crown moulding. Rose motifs are etched into almost every inch of the vaulted ceiling. More proof of Ferdinand’s obsession with romanticism and bringing nature into the interior of the home.

Queen’s Bedroom

The most opulent of all the rooms in the Queen’s bedroom. Moorish decorations cover the walls and ceiling in a way that literally makes your jaw drop. Geometric patterns repeat on the roof and spread out onto all the walls below. The designs are centred around bright gold stars covered in sumptuous gold leaf. The dark wooden bed is given a baroque treatment with swirling bedposts and a headboard which surges and swells like the waves.

Study of Queen Amélia

Outside the bedroom, you’ll find the study of Queen Amelia. Originally this was the music room, a room which acted very similarly to a modern day living room. This was where the family would listen to various musicians play traditional Portuguese instruments. Eventually, the room was transformed into the Queen’s study. Today, it is used to display silverware, weaponry and even the desks and stationary of Queen Amélia. The room’s wallpaper is made to look like carved stoned with faux azulejos in green and white accents.

Green Room

The green room provides another brilliant example of Trompe-l’ œil. Here the wallpaper is made to replicated flowers and branches as well as traditional architectural carvings. Although some of the paint is peeling, I love how this part was left unrestored as it makes the building feel more authentic and shows its real age!

Arab Reception Room

Past the royal chambers, we find the Arab Reception room. Looking at this room from afar you might be fooled into thinking the walls open up to the exterior and the ceiling is fantastically carved. But in fact, these are all optical illusions. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil’ which is French for “to deceive the eye”. Objects which exist in three dimensions are here created in a two dimensional forced perspective with nothing else but paint. The paintings were made in 1854 by esteemed Italian scenographer Paolo Pizzi. This technique was employed to make otherwise small spaces to make them feel grandiose to the guests who would be received for the first time in this room.

The Galleries

The next few rooms were once used as the abbot’s suite when the building was a monastery. These now contain different trinkets, treasures and works of art which belonged to King Ferdinand II. This part of the tour felt so special since you were looking at all these personal items which help you understand the personality of the man who once owned this castle. The little things which make a house, a home.

Smoking Room

In the smoking room, we find a vast Islamic dome covered in Mudejar art. A stunning neo-rococo chandelier hangs from the ceiling, covered in Venetian glass in the shape of ivy climbing all over the wrought iron frame. The candles site inside morning glory flowers, also made from that fantastical Venetian glass. The white walls are covered intricate textures which were created to replicate the look of traditional Indian lacework. This was my favourite room, it felt both immensely regal, which also being restrained and demure.

Queen’s Terrace

The Queen had access to one of the most astonishing parts of the castle, the south facing terrace. From here she could look out over the majestic Sintra countryside and the castle’s exceptional architecture. During the reign of King Carlos and Queen Amélia, there was a large metal structure erected on the terrace so the king and queen could entertain their guests outdoors during the summer. In the centre of the terrace are a large sundial and solar quadrant which once fired a small cannon throughout the day to announce the presence of the royal family or visiting dignitaries.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces in the palace. Compared to the relatively small sized bedrooms, this receptions hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer.

The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are located on either end of the room, in their hands, they hold huge golden torches. Rich, red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopies behind them to make the room appear much larger than it is in reality. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them and see just who is sharing secrets with who.

Stag Hall

One of the last rooms you’ll see is the Stag Hall. Originally it was supposed to be the banqueting hall, but construction was halted, and it never came to be. The central column, designed to looks like a giant tree trunk, was going to be the enormous round table which guest would eat around like knights of stories past. On all the walls there would have been antique weapons on display, and each of the windows would have contained pieces of archaic stained-glass themed with heraldic motifs. Since this new part of the castle was never finished, it remains somewhat unfinished looking with only stuffed deer trophies decorating the plain white walls and glass display cases featuring the pieces of stained glass planned for the windows.

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. In here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other old-fashioned culinary tools found in this old Portuguese kitchen. The kitchen felt enormous compared to the rather small interior rooms, but it must have taken an army to feed the great parties which were no doubt held here. The new kitchen was designed to be close to the Stag Hall since it was meant to be the main dining area, but unfortunately for the poor chefs, this never came to be.

Cafe and Restaurant

After touring the castle, the cafe located on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprising cheap with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also an excellent opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back so instead, enjoy the regal atmosphere around and soak in the view.

Gardens of Pena Park

After finishing up at the palace, it’s now time to explore the gardens of Pena. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, so its best to just keep that adventuring spirit in front of your mind and just wander the park. Don’t worry about getting lost, you’ll eventually stumble upon some signage, which always helped us get back on the right track. The gardens cover over 85 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are so many amazing things to discover.

Cruz Alta

You can hike to the very top of the gardens to find the Cruz Alta, located 529 metres above sea level. This stone cross is situated at the highest point of the Sintra hills. The cross is made of intertwined branches and created to mark to the where the explorer D. Joao III claimed this land for Portugal. Another famous landmark is the Statue of the Warrior. This stunning granite sculpture made in 1848 by Ernesto Rusconi is of a non-descript knight who represented all those idealized, romantic notions in which the parks and palace sought to embody.

Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these winding pathways around the gardens felt like your own private area. We were often the only ones there, and in spite of the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way. Ferdinand wanted these gardens to feel like wandering through a romantic forest where you wouldn’t be surprised to come upon nymphs drinking spring water from the fountains or unicorns grazing on fern trees.

Greenhouse

The Hot House, or greenhouse, can be found just past the Camellia Gardens. The greenhouses’ importance is notable by the fact that it is surrounded by large stone walls which aim to protect and highlight this spot. The greenhouse was equipped with its own plumbing system, and you can find the old furnace outside which was used to heat the greenhouse throughout the year. This was used to keep those precious flowers which needed warmth, safe throughout the colder winters. Having this greenhouse meant that Ferdinand could grow many different impressive flowers and trees, which otherwise would have been impossible to flourish outside of their natural environment. One more example of how this palace made the impossible possible.

Throughout the garden, you’ll spot everything from magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese ginko, American sequoia, cypress, red cedar, as well as tree ferns from New Zeland and Australia. No matter what time of year you come, there is almost always something flowering.

Islamic-style domed pavilion

In the lower portion of the gardens, you might be surprised to find an Islamic-style domed pavilion. Around the edge of the dome, written in Arabic are the words “The Sultan D. Manuel built this chapel blessed in the name of Our Lady Mary of Pena, in the year 1503, in celebration of the safe return of Dom Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the lands and countries which he found…” The King was never a Sultan, but it’s just one more way that we can see how Ferdinand really loved a fairytale story, even about himself.

Further down, closer to the roadside entrance to the park, you’ll find the Grotto of the Monk. This was once a modest medieval garden where the Hieronymite monks would come to retreat the monastery and meditate in the peace and quiet of the forest.

Duck Houses

One of the last things in the park to explore before you exit are the Duck Houses. These stone towers look more like minature forts, but when you look closer at their tiny doors, you might catch a glimpse of a family of ducks making their way home. These were such a delight to Ferdinand’s guests, as everyone got a good laugh out of these ducks with their very own castle, within in a castle.

The duck houses mark the end of the tour. They are located at the official entrance to Pena Park. If you’re continuing on from here, it’s a short 10-minute walk over to the Moorish Castle, or you can hop on bus #434 to get back to Sintra station. While many people make Pena Palace a part of their day trip to Sintra, if you choose to explore the entirety of the park and spend some quality time inside the palace, you can easily dedicate an entire day to this wonderland. I hope that either way, you decide to visit this incredible site. I hope that you have a great time exploring all these secrets I’ve uncovered for you and that you share with me any new ones you discover!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Pena Palace, Sintra first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Access

This Zen temple is located along Kyoto’s Eastern mountains. You can easily access the Pavillion by bus on #5, 17, or 100 from Kyoto Station. The ride takes about 35-40 minutes and costs 230 yen one way. The Silver Pavillion is located along the Philosopher’s Path, so combining this visit with that one is a great way to spend a relaxing morning.

Hours & Admission

Ginkakuji is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm March to November and from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm from December to February. There are no closing days, so even during the holidays, you can still visit. Admission into the Pavilion is 500 yen.

History

The Silver Pavillion was built in 1482 for the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. It was made for him to spend his retirement in a serene and relaxing environment. The architectural designs of the temple are significant as they are one of the best representations of Higashiyama architecture of the Muromachi period. Unfortunately, the Shogun only had the chance to spend a few years here as he passed away in 1490. After his death, the villa was converted into a Zen temple for the people of Kyoto.

Why is it called the “Silver” Pavillion

Although it is called the “Silver” pavilion, surprisingly enough, there was never any silver anywhere to be found. Initially, the main building was supposed to be coated in silver, just as its sister building, the Golden Pavillion, was covered in gold. But the Shogun ran out of money during construction, and that great silver architectural icon was never to be. But the designers would not give up so easily. They painted the main building with a dark coat of paint so that at night the black paint would reflect the moonlight, giving the building the appearance of glowing silver in the light.

Architecture

The Silver Pavillion was built by combining two distinct architectural styles, seamlessly blending Japan’s art history. Each shingle on the roof is made from Japanese cypress trees. Bamboo nails secured the bark, as metal nails would rust and ruin the wood. Inside the Pavillion is a precious statue of “Kannon,” the Buddhist goddess of mercy, to whom the Shogun would pray each night.

Although this is not viewable to the public, you can imagine how important it would have been to be housed in such a grandiose place. Despite the pavilion’s relative simplicity, a profoundly artistic aesthetic can be found here. The Japanese have perfected the ideology of grace in restraint, and this is one of their best examples.

Entry

When I arrived, I was one of the first people to get there. Only a few other couples were huddled outside the gates, waiting to get inside. Before letting people in, one of the caretakers sprinkled water on the stones along the entry. This wasn’t to clean the stones but to spiritually cleanse them. Just as people wash their hands before entering a temple, they do the same for the grounds themselves.

The Silver Pavilion is the first thing you’ll see when you come inside, as it is the largest building on the property. A circular path will lead you through the grounds, and as you go, you will have the chance to see the pavilion from all different angles. Discovering something unique, something new or something amazing as you do so.

The Sand Garden

The bright white sands of the Sand Garden are among the first things you’ll see upon beginning your tour around the grounds. It is better known as the “Sea of Silver Sands.” In the centre of the meticulously manicured rows of sand is a grey cone called the “Moon Viewing Platform,” symbolizing Mount Fuji.

Since we were there so early in the morning, we saw the caretakers raking up the sand and placing it carefully in pristine rows. They would gently pick up fallen leaves, find rogue stones out of place, and delicately put them back where they belonged.

Hondo

Beside the sand garden lies the “Hondo” (the main hall). Although this building cannot be entered, you can still admire the exquisite wood carvings, dainty sliding doors, and paintings on the exterior walls. This building was where Yoshimasa studied the art of the tea ceremony. He was obsessed with creating the ideal setting and process for a tea ceremony and spent his retirement perfecting this performance. The tea room he designed would become the prototype for all future tea ceremony spaces. The doors are often left open a sliver, enough to peek inside to see some of the greatness he created.

Togudo

Beside the main hall is the Togudo. This was the Shogun’s study. The entire room was covered in tatami mats to create a comfortable zen-like environment for people to come and meditate.

Moss Garden

After the study, you head up the small hill which backs out on the grounds. This path will lead you to the moss garden. This garden was supposedly designed by the great Japanese landscape architect Sōami.

Inside the moss garden, you feel as if the world has disappeared. A little steam dribbles down the hill. Tiny bridges arch over the stream, and you can wander around, studying all the various plants which decorate the landscape.

The Reflective Pond

The reflective pond sits beside the moss garden. Manicured trees grow around it, reflecting into the glass-like water. The bright green colours of the trees are so vibrant it’s hard to believe it’s real.

I was the first one to venture into this area, and one of the caretakers was still walking around the paths, cleansing the pathways with holy water.

Lookout Point

From the back of the moss garden, a set of stairs will lead you up to the hill and towards a lookout point. At the top of the path, you can see over the tops of the buildings below and throughout Kyoto. The view is stunning, and even for people who might not be interested in the temple, this view will surely entice you to come and visit this magical place.

On the way down the path, you finish the circular walkway around the grounds and will once more pass by the Silver Pavillion. This is your last chance to look at it, this time a little more closely. See if you can spot any hidden details with which the architects have littered the exterior.

If you’ve never understood what ‘zen’ is, this is the place to find it. Zen is derived from the Chinese word ‘Chán,’ derived from the Indian practice of dhyāna or “meditation.” Zen is about self-control and finding insight into the nature of things. While it can be hard to make a quiet space in your hear when you’re travelling, try your best when you’re here to get in touch with that aspect of zen; sit in silence for a few minutes and reflect on the feeling of the world around you and be grateful for this amazing journey you are on.

What is your favourite place in the world to find Zen? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Guide to Ginkaku-ji, The Silver Pavilion Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Admission and Hours
   • Special Admission to the Dharma Hall
3. History
4. Hyakka'en garden
5. Chōzubachi
6. Views from the Shrine
7. Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden
8. Dragon Gate Falls
9. The Sand Garden
10. Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism
11. The Teaching Temple
12. The Hojo
    • Daihojo
    • Kohojo
      • Happy Travels, Adventurers

Access

Tenryu-ji is just a short walk from the Keifuku Arashiyama Station. If you’re travelling directly from Kyoto Station though the best way to access the temple is from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. From JR Saga-Arashiyama Station it’s only a 5-10 minute walk to the temple. The ride from Kyoto station is about 20 minutes long and costs 240 yen.

Admission and Hours

There are two options for ticketing when you come in. You can pay 500 yen ($5 USD) to enter the gardens only or pay an extra 300 yen ($3 USD) which will allow you to also enter the interior of the building. The price difference is pretty minimal, and for anyone interested in Japanese architecture and Buddhism, purchasing the interior ticket is worth the extra cash. The temple is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm 365 days a year.

Special Admission to the Dharma Hall

Please note that Dharma Hall requires an additional admission fee of ¥500. The Dharma Hall is open on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays only, and during specially designated periods during the spring and autumn. The Hatto (where the Cloud Dragon is located) is closed to the public on December 31th 2023 to January 2nd, 2024.

History

The Tenryuji temple was first built in 1339 by the ruling Shogun Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji had quarrelled against Emperor Go-Daigo over the supremacy of Japan. When the emperor died, Takauji didn’t have the chance to mend the tensions between the two powerful men. This open-ended disagreement didn’t sit well with Takauji, and so he decided to build the temple in honour of the emperor in the hope of appeasing the emperor’s spirit.

Hyakka’en garden

Walking through the north gate, you first enter the Hyakka’en (flower garden). The Hyakka’en garden is covered in flowering trees, bushes and lush herbs. It was so intensely green and lush. Since it has been growing for over 700 years, it has had the change to no longer feel like it was designed, more like it grew exactly like this. In the flower garden, there was a large bamboo grove where newer bamboo stalks grow. Baby bamboo, you might say

Chōzubachi

As you walk into the temple ground, it is customary that you cleanse your hands. This action will help clean your body and mind. The first step is to pick up the water ladle with your right hand. Then scoop water and wash left hand. Then switch the ladle to your left hand, and wash right hand. Finally, pour some water into your hand and wash your mouth. Spit the water out as rinsing; this is not considered rude as the water is not safe to ingest.

Near the cleansing fountain, you’ll also find a pond full of ceramic frogs where people will throw coins and make wishes.

Views from the Shrine

Before heading around the corner to the large Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden and the main buildings, try taking a walk up the set of stairs to the left of the gardens. This is large hill gives climbers an incredible view of the garden below, Arashiyama and even the mountains far off in the distance.

Walk up the hill and take in the incredible views from the top. There are several benches up where you can stop and have a little snack. Put away your phones and, just for a few minutes, quietly enjoy the peace and tranquility. Most people run up, take a picture and run back down. But when we visited, we were so happy to find ourselves in a moment of the day when we weren’t in a rush and could just take the day as it came. We listened to the gentle rattle of the bamboo grove behind us and the sound of running water trickling from the fountains below.

Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden

The Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden is one of the most important attractions of the temple. It is over 700 years old, designed by Zen master Muso Soseki. Walking through it is like stepping back in time. The surrounding buildings might have been destroyed by fires many times over the years, but the garden has remained the same. Hundreds and hundreds of years memories encased in the water, sand and trees that surround it.

Sogenchi Teien has been dubbed a “strolling” garden since it contains features which can be explored and appreciated from various areas along a level path. The huge pond which stands in the centre of the temple acts as a giant reflecting pool. Mirroring the mountains and the trees around it.

The garden has long been a place for quiet reflections for the Japanese. In 1799 the garden appeared in one of the earlier sightseeing guides of the area. Inside the book, there was a wood print of what the garden once looked like and shockingly enough, aside from many more people, there isn’t a thing that has changed.

Dragon Gate Falls

Across the pond, you can see Dragon Gate Falls. This is made up of several large stones, symbolizing carps swimming upstream. It is an allegory of an old Chinese myth. It goes that “if a carp can swim up a waterfall, it will be turned into a great dragon.” The story in the centre of the pond symbolizing the carps transformations that come only with enlightenment and encourages all those come here to visit or to study to find the same thing.

The Sand Garden

Beside the pond lies a sand garden which had been raked into perfectly straight lines. These sand gardens were intended for spiritual reflection and helped the monks on-site practice meditation.

Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism

The temple is now the headquarter of the Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism. In the Rinzai Zen school, there is great emphasis put on “seeing one’s true nature”. While walking up and down the pathways, I tried my best to get in touch with my true nature, my inner self. Although I didn’t come to any huge realizations, I did feel deep down a massive sense of accomplishment in being here. When I was sick never thought I would get better. When I was alone and I never thought I would be in love again. And yet here I was, alongside my husband, feeling great and explore a country I never would have seen were it not for him.

The Teaching Temple

Most of the buildings in and around Tenryuji are all reconstructions since fires over the years destroyed the originals and even subsequent constructions. The most impressive of all the buildings is the teaching temple. With so many tourists around it’s hard to forget that this temple is also school and an important one at that. The building which now serves as the school is a 1900 reconstruction. Inside you’ll find the image of Gautama Buddha, flanked by two guardians.

The Hojo

The Hojo is the largest structure in the compound, which is made up of two separate buildings; the Daihojo and the Kohojo.

Daihojo

The Daihojo is used only for ceremonies and other large events. Its iconic veranda surrounds the entire structure, providing a seamless combination of indoor and outdoor space for those inside. The floors inside are covered with traditional tatami mats, and rooms are separated by using sliding bamboo doors. Inside this building, we can also find the famous painting by Wakasa Butsugai of the iconic Cloud Dragon.

Kohojo

The Kohojo building serves as a greeting room for visitors and is not as formal as the Daihojo.

Finish your wander around the temple at the pond, filled with a multitude of koi fish. Looking down the large koi swimming around, it made me wonder how long some of these creatures had been around for. Considering the size of them, I wouldn’t be surprised if lurking under the surface there was one the size of the entire pond who started his life here and is still kickin’ it.

When you’re visiting Japan, there comes the point when every temple starts to look alike, and it can be difficult to figure out which ones are worth the visit. But this temple here surely does. It’s ancient garden and beautiful architecture, which seems to melt into the natural surroundings, is truly unique, and something is not to missed.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Step into the Serene World of Tenryu-ji Temple: Your Guide to Arashiyama’s Amazing Hidden Gem first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Admission and Hours

The fee seemed steep at 1,000 yen ($10 USD), but we decided to plop down a few yen and were inside. 1,000 yen might look like a lot for a self-guided walk through an old garden, but it was some of the best money we spent on the trip! The gardens are open from 9 am to 5 pm.

Access

From Kyoto Station, take the Japan Railways (JR) Saiin Line to Saga Arashiyama Station. It is a fifteen-minute walk from there.

History

The Ōkōchi Sansō was once the estate of a famous Japanese actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962). He became a star at a young age. But instead of blowing the money on cars, drugs or clothes as young stars do now – he decided to build this monument to Japanese architecture. He built this villa and the gardens as an escape, and it was opened to the public after his death. Now, it offers the public the sense of escape it once offered him.

The buildings within the garden have been recorded as cultural properties by the national government. Most of them were constructed in the 1930s and 40s except for the Jibutsudō, an original structure from the Meiji Era that was moved from its original location to this site after Okochi Denjiro purchased it to save it from destruction.

Chūmon Gate

To set off on the walking tour of the gardens, one only has to follow the signs along the pathway. The thing you’ll pass by is the Chūmon. A Chūmon, or “intermediate gate”, is built to divide the outer and inner tea gardens. It is where the host would meet his guests as he invited them inside for tea. Stepping through the gate is like being welcomed home.

Daijōkaku

After passing through this gate, you come upon the main building in the compound, the Daijōkaku. This is where Denjiro Okochi’s bedroom used to be and where he would spend most of his free time when he wasn’t entertaining in the tea house. The house is known for being one of the best examples of traditional Japanese residential architecture. It combines many styles of Japanese architecture, such as shoin-zukuri and sukiya-zukuri.

Architecture

These architectural styles seem in direct opposition, one for large, opulent houses and the other, meaning literally, “a small space, simple and austere.” The shinden-zukuri was a style of architecture that flourished in the Heian period. These buildings faced south, were comprised of a single story and were raised off the ground with wooden pillars. There was no tatami flooring, and the roof was made with cypress shingles. The sukiya-zukuri architecture uses slender wood elements and the simplicity of ornamentation.

From the front of the Daijōkaku, you have a lovely view of the forest and the mountain to the south. But this view pales compared to the one you get at the top of the garden path. After taking in the view here for a bit, we headed back off on the trail.

Flora and Fauna

The upper portion of the trail shows off the garden’s flora and fauna. The garden was designed to highlight all the different seasons. So no matter when you visit, there is always something stunning. Unlike some gardens where they only have one season of truly spectacular foliage or flowers, this garden can be enjoyed throughout the year. In the spring, we have cherry blossoms, azaleas in the summer, Japanese maple trees for the fall, and pine trees for the winter months. Until this point in the trip, we hadn’t seen many autumn colours since it was fairly early. But here, trees were starting to change colour, and the orange and gold leaves glowed against the crystal blue sky.

The grounds themselves take up about 20,000 square meters, and the guest pathway only shows you a small portion of the villa. One can only imagine what treasures are hidden in this estate. You’ll discover Buddha statues, water features, sculptures hidden in Cyprus trees and rose bushes throughout the stone path.

Hozu River Gorge

At the top of the path, you’ll come to a lookout point where you can see the slopes of Mount Hiei, Mount Arashi and Mount Ogura and the Hozu River gorge. Wandering in the Bamboo forest, you can’t see out to the landscape around you, but from up here, we saw things we never even would have known were there!

Senkaku Senkoji

Hidden in the mountains, you can see a tiny temple poking its head out of the trees. This is the Senkaku Senkoji temple. Its iconic coloured flags make it stand out amongst the green trees.

There is a term in landscape architecture called “borrowed scenery,” which means: “to incorporate the background landscape into the design.” Walking through the winding cobblestones and twisting pathways, you can understand this design as the garden and the forest seem intertwined.

Jibutsudō

The Jibutsudō, with its Irimoya-style roof, is a Buddhist shrine which was moved from its original location to the villa in Arashiyama. Jibutsudōs are buildings from the Meiji Era that were made for rich noblemen to practice Buddism in the comfort of their own homes. A private place of worship.

Chashitsu

Along this path, you’ll also find the original Chashitsu. This small tea room was designed for intimate gatherings with typical tea room features like soft, sliding doors made of wooden lattice covered in translucent Japanese paper, tatami mats and subdued colours.

Moon Light Pavilion

In my opinion, the piece-de-resistance of the whole estate is the Moon Light Pavilion. This open-air building is at the highest point in the garden and gives you the best view of Kyoto, the forest and the mountains. All are framed under a simplistic Japanese gazebo. Sitting here, you’ll feel on top of the world. The landscape below looked like a rainbow from here, orange and yellow trees, green mountains and a bright blue sky.

Tea Room

After the moon pavilion, we headed back down the trail to finish our tour with a cup of tea. Near the exit is a new tea room built to serve tea to all the guests who still visit this site, keeping Okochi Denjiro’s tradition alive. Inside this building, you are seated and served a hot cup of matcha tea and a little sweet treat.

We took a seat towards the back of the room with a view of the bamboo forest behind us. Here, surrounded only by a few other visitors, we had a private viewing of the famous bamboo forests where hundreds of tourists were crammed inside only hours earlier.

The tea itself was a welcome treat. The warm liquid hit the spot on a sunny but chilly, windy day. The matcha is slightly bitter and is purposefully served with the sweet candy cake to balance out the flavour of the tea.

Tea Room Experience

We sat quietly in the tea room for as long as we felt welcome (we honestly could have been forever). I read my guidebook and planned our next destination; Dan changed his phone and relaxed in the silent chatter of the tea room. We listened to other families talking about their travels. Taking a moment to step back and appreciate where we were, what we had done and what adventures were around the corner.

We said “arigato” and bowed deeply to the servers as we left. On the way out, many people approached the gate and turned away once reading the admission price. We shook our heads and smiled at each other as we had just uncovered a secret only we would take away with us. Don’t make the same mistake those people did. Come inside and soak it all in.

Your secret garden awaits.

The post Discovering the Hidden Gem in Arashiyama: A Guide to Kyoto’s Okochi Sanso Garden first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Do You Need to Buy Admission?
3. History of the Zwinger
4. Architecture of the Zwinger
5. Glockenspiel Pavilion
6. Nymphenbad
7. Museums inside the Zwinger

Access

The Zwinger Palace is located in the historic city center of Dresden, Germany. It is situated on Theaterplatz, near the Elbe River, and is surrounded by beautiful baroque gardens. You can access the Zwinger mostly by foot as Dresden is pretty small. But if you’re arriving from farther afield you can take the #8 Tram to the Theaterplatz stop. From there it’s only a one-minute walk to the gates of the Zwinger

Do You Need to Buy Admission?

To wander the grounds of the Zwinger and their gardens you don’t need to pay any admission as it is open to the public. But to view any of the galleries and museums located inside the buildings surrounding the grounds you’ll need to purchase a ticket.

History of the Zwinger

The Zwinger is, to this day, one of the most incredible baroque buildings in Germany. It was built for Augustus II the Strong. After returning from a grand tour through France and Italy in 1687, he explored King Louis XIV’s new court of Versailles and was eager to create a similar elaborate palace for himself in his hometown of Dresden.

The word ‘Zwinger‘ comes from the medieval German term for a fortress wall which protects a city. Archaeologists discovered that in the 12th century, the city’s fortification walls were once in this exact location. But since these fortifications were no longer needed, in the 16th century, Augustus had them torn down to make space for a new palace.

Augustus’ vision was six large pavilions connected by galleries which encircled a large courtyard. He called it a great festival space “whose ceiling is the sky.” The courtyard was made up of several gardens and an orangery. This would be the venue for any grande festivity held by the royal family. Some pavilions surrounding the courtyard were designed to house Augustus’ many royal collections of antiquities and art. 

The Zwinger was never meant to be a residence that was to come later, on the other side, closer to the Elbe. But Augustus died before he could oversee this construction, and that piece of land was left empty until the Semperoper House was built in 1841.

Architecture of the Zwinger

The Zwinger was built in the late baroque style called ‘Rococo’ by designer Pöppelmann in 1710-1728. The Zwinger was formally inaugurated in 1719 for the wedding of Prince Frederick August to Maria Josepha. The Rococo style embraced curves and elaborate ornaments but amped up the drama. Rococo added a sense of play to the designs. Rococo designers felt that architecture should have a sense of motion and used dramatic curves, making the viewer feel as though the building was alive. The Rococo style loved to emphasize piety. Plants and vines are featured prominently, carved into many parts of the Zwinger. 

Because the gardens were mainly for parties, it is no surprise that you’ll find statues or symbols of Bacchus everywhere you look. Bacchus is the Roman god of agriculture and wine. His followers are happily partying satyrs, which you’ll also find along the roofs and balconies of the Zwinger.

In addition to the bacchanalia, you’ll find richly decorative and whimsical figures, countless ornamental details pouring over every inch of the building and sculptures made by Balthasar Permoser and his assistant Paul Hermann.

The only place where the Zwinger breaks away from the Rococo aesthetic is its floor plan. The garden itself follows a geometric plan, and one side is a mirror image of the other. There is something very calming in symmetry, in particular against all the busy ornamentation that is going on around it.

Glockenspiel Pavilion

The Glockenspiel Pavilion southeast of the Zwinger is topped by a sculpture of Hercules. Hercules, holding the globe on his shoulders, is meant to reference Augustus 1st. The Glockenspiel building features a collection of porcelain bells made by the famous Meissen porcelain factory. The carillon of bells plays a melody every 15 minutes. The songs depend on the seasons and include Vivaldi, Mozart, and Bach pieces. Meissen was a town only about 25 km from Dresden and created some of the finest quality porcelain outside of Asia and was the first European porcelain factory when it opened in 1710.

During WWII, the buildings of the Zwinger were almost entirely eviscerated. The art from the collections had been previously removed before the bombings. But the rubble that was left meant a huge restoration job to open the Zwinger back up to the public as it once was.

Nymphenbad

The Nymphenbad can be found tucked away in the North West corner of the Zwinger. It is a small enclosed courtyard with a baroque fountain. Traditionally, in the Roman period, Nymphenbads were monuments consecrated to the nymphs and tritons/ They were a place to celebrate and relax. Back here, you can escape the hustle and bustle of the central gardens and find a moment of peace. It is also here that you’ll locate the staircase leading to the 2nd-storey walkway surrounding the Zwinger.

Although August the Strong has been dead for many years, his presence can still be felt in these gardens. He wanted to create a space for his people to celebrate Dresden and all its glory. Many Kings rejected or looked down on the everyday people. But Augustus was a man of the people and seemed to want to invite them into his life.

Museums inside the Zwinger

Once inside the Zwinger, you can visit one of their three incredible galleries. The Old Masters Picture Gallery contains an exquisitely, curated collection some of the best European Old Masters. The Dresden Porcelain Collection is a collection of Asian and Meissen porcelain designs from the 16th-19th century. The Mathematical and Physical Instruments Gallery has some of the most interesting scientific instruments that helped astrologists from as early as the 16th century discover the secrets of the universe.

The Zwinger Palace in Dresden is a true gem, rich in history and architecture. From its beautiful baroque gardens to its impressive collections housed within, the Zwinger is a must-visit for anyone interested in art, history, and culture. I loved simply strolling through the grounds going to-and-from our day-to-day activities. I hope you find it to be equally as charming!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Discover the Awe-Inspiring Architecture of the Zwinger Palace in Dresden first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Location of Brühl’s Terrace

The area where the Terrace now stands is where the ancient old city ramparts were built in 1738. Once the Fort was no longer needed to protect the city from invaders, it was converted, by the King’s orders, into an outdoor garden and space for the city’s citizens.

From this high point of view, you can see across the Elbe to what is now called “Neue Town,” the beautiful Saxon State Ministry of Finance building, the Saxon State Chamber building and more.

Artisans

We strolled along the cobblestones and stopped to peruse the various artists peddling their wares along the Terrace. It was early morning, and some people were just getting set up. There were so many pieces of handmade art that were truly something unique. The artists were there with the easels and paints, ready to make more pieces for sale.

Dresden Academy of Fine Arts

It was fitting to see all these artists out and about, seeing that the Terrace is also home to the Dresden Academy of Fine Arts. This building, topped with its iconic glass “Lemon Squeezer,” was built in 1764 to house the Art Academy. It was used as both a workplace and a training ground for influential European artists. On the side of the building facing the Elbe, the names of Phidias, Iktinos, Praxiteles, Polykleitos, Lysippos, Erwin von Steinbach, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael and Dürer are inscribed. Beside this is the motto “DEM VATERLAND ZU ZIER UND EHR” – “For the Honour and Adornment of the Fatherland.” Instead of angels, it is interesting to notice that the golden figures on the roof are Phemes, creatures from Greek mythology. These creatures are the personification of fame and renown. What a perfect reference for artists.

Terraces on the Terrace

There were so many bright and colourful cafes along the terraces where you could just sit down and enjoy a light lunch or cup of coffee while looking out over the gorgeous blue waters of the Elbe.

I stopped for a minute beneath the rows of perfectly manicured trees lining the end of the Terrace. You could see the immense towers surrounding the square below the Terrace from this spot. It is an incredible viewpoint of so many different buildings around the city.

One of my favourite things when travelling is the cheesy tourist traps that some cities are replete with. In Dresden, they had many little boat bikes where the employee would peddle their tours. The boats were so cute, though!!! I was disappointed we had already booked our tickets; I would have loved to give this poor kid some business.

Bronze Signs

All along the terrace are these bronze markings. Each one signifies different planets with a different quote written on the bronze medallion. This one translates into “a bad trade, where no one wins”…I wish I knew more about the contest or what it means, but alas, I do not.

Frederick Augustus

On our way down the stairs, as we left the Terrace to run off to catch our boat, we passed by the Statue of Ernst Friedrich August Rietschel, one of the most famous artists to come out of Dresden. Ernst studied sculpture in Rome, and when he returned to Saxony, he needed to create a piece of work that would show his worth to the people of his hometown. He carved an enormous statue of Frederick Augustus, the King of Saxony, that was larger than life and wowed all the Saxon people.

After proving his worth, he was elected into the art academy in Dresden and became their chief sculptor. His sculptors were just what the aristocracy wanted; they were full of idealism, drama and vigour. They treated men like gods and made their image colossal in nature. Now you can see his work all over the city. It’s only fitting that he should have a sculptor looking down on the towns he helped build.

As we walked down the stairs leading up to the river and into the Schloßplatwe stopped to admire the four giant statues carved in bronze flanking the stairway. These sculptures represent the Four Times of Day. Dresden, although now mostly a tourist destination, was once the epicentre of European culture. There was not a time of day when there weren’t revellers in the streets, painters improving their craft, merchant trading their goods on the shore, and Kings and queens ruling Saxony from the castles above. These statutes seem to reflect that time cannot be stopped, and everything changes, just like the city itself.

Brühl’s Terrace is a remarkable attraction that offers a unique perspective of the city of Dresden. With its stunning views, rich history, and beautiful architecture, this terrace is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Dresden. Whether you’re a local resident or a tourist, a trip to Brühl’s Terrace is sure to be a memorable experience.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post A Complete Guide to Visiting Brühl’s Terrace in Dresden first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Hibiya Park is a 16-hectare public park that was built in the late 19th century as Japan’s first Western-style park. In addition to the standard park features such as trees, playgrounds and benches, western sports facilities, like tennis courts were built alongside western flower gardens and rose bushes. We saw down on a large hill looking over a large portion of the park. In front of the benches, we sat on was a humongous bell. This was donated by the US in 1952 and is crowned with a Liberty Bell. 

After a short rest, we continued throughout the park and made our way down to the large fountain in front of an outdoor concert hall. We sat there watching children dip their toes in the cold fountain water and couples walking hand in hand around the dreamy landscape.

Across from the fountain where some of the parks largest rose gardens. Nothing was blooming while we were there, but the park does hold one of the best public collections of flora and fauna in the city. They even are known to have Kingfishers, rare ultramarine sparrow-like birds, perch on the bushes surrounding the park.

Throughout the park, there were dozens of small drink and food carts selling all sorts of different treats. Since it was so hot out we both treated ourselves to soda and some odd flavoured popcorn.

The popcorn we picked out was lemon tea flavoured and despite being such an odd combo for popcorn was surprisingly delicious.

Despite the park being dubbed as a “western style” park one had to admire how beautiful the Japanese architecture even something so simple as the washrooms were.

Drinks in had and complete with snacks, we sat and listened to a little musical group practice their routine, no doubt for an evening show later that day.

 Throughout the park there are also other smaller fountains and sculptures which are worth checking out. They pop up all over the place and even without plaques or information they are a treasure to spot as you walk about.

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