Up above the city of Prague, we discover the neighbourhood of Hradčany. Never heard of it? Well, I can’t say I’m completely surprised. This upper part of the Lesser Quarter is often overlooked by tourists who rush into the Prague Castle complex and then quickly rush back towards the Old Town. But that’s such a shame since I LOVE this part of town and find exploring these hillside buildings to be such an adventure. Hradčany is one of Prague’s quietest blocks despite being located right beside some of the most prominent attractions. This allows travellers to explore the charming street corners and historic buildings while getting away from the hoards of tourists.
In 1784, four independent boroughs in Bohemia came together to form the city of Prague. Today, each of these districts feels like their own unique area of the town, whose architecture, atmosphere and layout change as you move throughout them. The four neighbourhoods are Hradčany (the Castle District), Malá Strana (the Lesser Quarter below Prague Castle), Staré Město (Old Town) and Nové Město (New Town).
Hradčany is such a beautiful part of town. It’s fantastically easy to wander around. If you’re not in a rush to get back to the old city after exploring Prague Castle, I highly recommend taking a walk through this part of town. Although there is a myriad of impressive buildings to venture inside (should time allow) my favourite thing to do in this area is simply to walk around aimlessly and admire all the romantic-looking houses which dot the streets.
- Location
- History
- Access
- Zámecké schody
- Paradise Garden
- Hradčany Square
- Schwarzenberg Palace
- Salm Palace
- Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk
- The New Royal Palace
- Archbishop Palace
- Šternberský Palace
- Martinic Palace
- Tuscany Palace
- Loretánská street
- Hradčany Town Hall
- U Černého vola
- Strahov Monastery
- Basilica of the Assumption
- Strahov Library
- Černín Palace
- Loreto Sanctuary
- Novy Svet
- Church of St. John of Nepomuk
- Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat
- Powder Bridge
- Prague Riding School
- The Royal Garden
- Royal Ball Game Hall
- Singing Fountain
- Queen Anne's Summer Palace
Location
Hradčany or the Castle District is located on the Vltava river’s west bank, above the Mala Strana/Lesser Quarter. This area is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Prague and wandering around its noble historical palaces, romantic nooks, peaceful squares and beautiful lookouts feel like stepping back in time.
History
The settlement of Hradčany was established in the 13th century. Unlike the Old Town and Lesser Quarter, which were official cities, Hradčany wasn’t an official town and developed in a much more haphazard manner. In 1598 Emperor Rudolf II finally promoted it to the status of a city, and the district’s situation began to change. More and more wealthy people began to move in. Either to be closer to the palace as a sign of their devotion to the crown or perhaps they were a royal worker who moved in to be closer to work.
Because the area of Hradčany was located near Prague Castle, it gained the title of being a “Royal Town” in the 14th century shortly before New Town was founded by Charles IV. Because of this status, residents living here were all relatively wealthy. The owners could afford to hire the best artisans to create some of Prague’s most stunning structures. Hradčany was an independent city until 1784, when it became part of Prague’s unified royal capital.
Access
We’re going to start the tour just outside Prague Castle, assuming you’ll be taking this tour after exploring that part of town. If you’re making a separate trip to Hradčany, you can follow the same path. The best way to access the start of the walking tour directly is by taking the tram to Malostranské náměstí station. The first stop on the guided tour is only a few minutes from the tram stop.
Zámecké schody
We start our tour along with the steps of Zámecké schody, or the Castle Stairs. This pedestrian-only street was built in 1278. The name translates into “the steep road” in Czech as the original stairs that used to be here until the 1870s were perilously steep. Today the patterned stone steps are flanked on either side by beautiful old stone walls and a gorgeous view across the city of Prague.
Paradise Garden
When you reach the top of the stairs, head over the right to a small green area called the “Paradise Garden.” Up here you’ll find a series of benches along the grass where you can sit and look out over the city. It’s a spectacular viewpoint and one not to be missed!
Hradčany Square
Head back out to Hradčanské street, where you’ll find the statue of St. Filip Neri at the intersection of the stairs and the road. From here, head towards the grand Hradčany Square. Hradčany Square is one of the most scenic areas of the neighbourhood, full of charming pastel palaces and houses everywhere you look. The square faces onto Prague castle, and from here you can see the towers of St. Vitus Cathedral looming overhead.
The middle of the square is dominated by a great plague column. Plague columns were a popular decorative addition to squares in the 15th century. They were designed to praise the Virgin Mary for saving the people of Prague from the great plague. Plague columns represented the end of the epidemic and were thought to prove the resolve of the population of Prague. This statue was designed by Maxmilián Brokof, one of the most famed sculptors of the Baroque era. Even the plague columns of this district were made by the most illustrious artists.
Schwarzenberg Palace
On the south side of the square is Schwarzenberg Palace. This elegant Renaissance palace from the 16th century is covered in the most intricate geometric design. The pattern is made to look like a pyramidal relief, but if you go up to it and touch it, you’ll see that this is just a trick of the eye. This effect is called sgraffito and is a painting technique used to create an optical illusion of a three-dimensional texture on a flat surface. The effect is mesmerizing. And unless you touch the walls you’d think the entire facade was meticulously carved.
The palace was built for Count Jan Jr. from Lobkovice in 1545. Schwarzenberg Palace is now home to the National Gallery of Prague. If you choose to venture inside, you’ll be able to see some of the original painted ceiling frescoes. One of the most famous treasures of the building is the restored frescoes of The Judgment of Paris and the Conquest of Troy.
The art housed inside the palace contains paintings from the Renaissance done by Bohemian artists as well as Old Masters. Artists such as; Hans von Aachen, Lucas Cranach, Adriaen de Vries, Albrecht Dürer, El Greco, Francisco José Goya, Hans Holbein, Peter Paul Rubens, and others are featured in here.
Salm Palace
Adjacent to the Schwarzenberg Palace is the Salm Palace or Salmovský Palace. The Salm palace is easily identifiable by the large “S” monogram on the gate. This building, built in the classical style, was initially made for the Archbishop Vilém Florentin, or Prince of Salm-Salm, in 1800.
The older palace, which once stood here, was renovated in the 19th century, as was the fashion during that period. It was used throughout the later part of the 19th century as the communist party’s headquarters. Today, it is used as a part of the National Gallery. This part of the gallery is where you can find paintings from the 19th century and onward. This part of the gallery is known for their abstract art installations and modern art collection.
Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk
Just outside the Salm Palace stands the great bronze statue of Monument to Tomas Garrigue Masaryk. He stands atop a tall plinth, looking out at the New Royal Palace with the view of Prague’s city spread out behind him. Tomas Garrigue Masaryk was a Czechoslovak statesman, philosopher, sociologist and pedagogue. But most importantly, he was the first president of the Czechoslovak Republic and was seen as the founding father of Czechoslovakia.
The New Royal Palace
The New Royal Palace is a formation of cream coloured buildings set against the eastern part of Hradčany Square. The royal family moved into these apartments during the Renaissance when their old Royal Palace, dating back tot he 12th century, was no longer serviceable. The multitude of structures was renovated to have one unified facade under the rule of Empress Maria Theresa. She felt they looked much too much like a hodgepodge of architectural styles.
The enormous gates that guard the entrance feature a series of wrestlers called the “Gate of the Titans.” This gate leads you into the Court of Honour, although today, the Titans’ Gate is only used as an exit, so you cannot enter via this gate. The wrestling statues were carved by Ignác Fr. Platzer in 1762. On either side of the gladiators are statues of a lion and an eagle atop a great column.
Inside the Court of Honour, we find the central Matthias Gate. The Matthias Gate was once the ceremonial gate used as an entrance to Prague Castle in the early part of the 17th century. Atop the gate is a Latin inscription in gold that gives the date of its construction, 1614. At one point, this gate would have been freestanding as the wings on either side hadn’t been built yet. When they were added, the entrance was redesigned to be incorporated into the buildings.
Archbishop Palace
On the north side of the square, you’ll find the Archbishop Palace, named as such because it was built for the Archbishops of Prague. The previous Archbishop house was located further south in the Lesser Quarter. People would rave about the manor’s opulence, and even King Wenceslas himself apparently envied the splendour. Unfortunately, the palace burned down in the 15th century.
In 1561, Emperor Ferdinand I donated a house around Prague castle, which the archbishops could use as their new residence. The building went through round after round of redesigns and renovations. Each subsequent archbishop wanted to add their own personal flourish. Their palace’s current incarnation is from the Rococo era, seen clearly by the scrolling curves, white and cream pastel colours, sculpted moulding and dramatic figures. In the center of the facade is a coat of arms inserted under the cornice. On either side are two allegorical figures of Force and Faith by sculptor Tomas Seidan.
Archbishop’s Chapel
Although the palace’s interior is not accessible to visitors, inside the holy chapel is a stirring painting of the Crucifixion. It is said the artist who painted the picture hired a young beggar to pose as Jesus. The artist became frustrated and felt like the beggar didn’t look like he was suffering enough to be painted appropriately as Jesus on the cross. So, the artist stabbed the beggar through the heart to paint his agony-filled face. After the painting was finished, the artists committed suicide, unable to live with what he had done. But the picture still hangs in the chapel to this day, and the anguish upon the man’s face in the portrait is utterly haunting.
Šternberský Palace
Walking under the archway to the left of the Archbishop’s Palace, you find yourself wandering down a narrow alleyway towards the Šternberský Palace. The palace was initially built for the Count Václav Vojtěch of Šternberk in 1698. The main facade of the palace looks out onto Hradčanské Square but to get to the inner courtyard one must follow the hidden passage we find ourselves in. The building was bought by the Society of Patriotic Friends of the Arts, where they display European Art from the Classical Era to the end of the Baroque Era, with emphasis on the 14th-18th centuries.
Martinic Palace
Walk back to the square, and continue westward along Hradčanské street. When we reach the square’s edge, we will find ourselves face to face with Martinic Palace on the northwest corner. The exterior of this building is truly something to see. The palace is one of the best remaining Renaissance buildings in Prague. The first building on this site was made in 1541 but burned down shortly after. In 1589 Ondřej Teyfl from Kinsdorf bought the property and transformed it into this renaissance jewel of Bohemia. What makes this building really special is the richly detailed sgraffito painted onto the facade. The sgraffito designs depict scenes from the lives of Joseph, King David and Hercules.
The name of the palace came from the 18th century when the great Martinic family owned the palace. After the death of the last surviving family member, the palace was sold off. Eventually, the building was turned into an apartment complex. These 70 apartments were lived in until 1967! Can you imagine living in such a place!
Seeing the property’s historical architectural value, the building was purchased by the city and reconstructed back to its former glory. The 500-year-old interiors have been lovingly restored based on drawing the architects found of the original structure. The lavishly decorated interiors are still used for large events and even employed as the historical sets for TV shows such as ‘The Borgias.’ But day-to-day, the palace serves as the office for Prague’s chief architect, which feels very appropriate indeed!
Tuscany Palace
Heading back south on the western side of Hradčany street, we pass by the final palace built in this majestic square, the Tuscany Palace. This baroque palace was built in the 17th century as the private residence of the Dukes of Tuscany. Walking up to it, you almost know it’s the Tuscan palace, from the facade’s warm terracotta tones alone. Today it serves as the office for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
Above the entrance, you’ll see the magnificent Tuscan coat of arms. On either side of the crest are two large cornucopias pouring forth with the bounty of Tuscany’s countryside. Two imperial eagles sit perched on either side, and four chubby cherubs fly above and below the crest.
This palace was designed by the same man who built the Archbishop’s Palace, and the two buildings seem to be almost brothers, looking at one and other from across the square. Along the top of the palace are a series of allegorical statues representing the Seven Liberal Arts; Grammar, Rhetoric, Logic, Arithmetic, Geometry, Music and Astronomy.
Loretánská street
Pass the Tuscan Palace and continue along Loretánská street. Although this street can get busy in the summer during high tourist season, this is mainly due to the spectacular view of Prague castle framed along the road. The best place to get this shot is further up the hill at #13/179 Loretánská street.
In the 14th century, this part of town was actually located outside the city walls. It wasn’t until 1598 that it became a part of Prague’s city. Some of the houses here are very well preserved as they were spared from the great fire in 1742 set by the invading French army.
Hradčany Town Hall
Located on Loretánská Street is the former seat of the Hradčany Town Hall. Despite the council being disbanded with their integration into Prague, their beautiful Renaissance building still stands. Although the house was sold as a residential property, the new owners managed to preserve the Renaissance sgraffito exterior made when the town hall was built in 1598. On the front of the facade, you can still make out the emblem of the town of Hradčany. The symbol features the imperial coat-of-arms and a picture of Justice.
U Černého vola
If you’re looking to stop somewhere for a drink or a bite to eat, pop into U Černého vola. U Černého vola, in Czech, means the Black Ox. This is one of Prague’s original beerhalls. The building dates back to 1574, but it wasn’t until 1726 that the building was used as a pub.
The interior makes one feel like they are going back in time. The vaulted ceilings, old coat of arms and long communal tables make you feel like you are entering a brew hall from the 18th century. Back then, it was commonplace to eat together, even with strangers. This is an excellent way to meeting people even today! The centrepiece of the interior is clearly the communist era bar. Here you can sample one of Prague’s finest brews; Kzoel beer, straight from the tap.
Strahov Monastery
Continue along the streets, walking westward, until you reach the Strahov Monastery. The monastery, with its austere white baroque mouldings, hides a stunning and bejewelled interior. The monastery was founded in 1143 by Prince Vladislav II. Despite the baroque exterior, the interior contains one of the best-preserved Romanesque structures in Europe.
Basilica of the Assumption
Walking up to the monastery, the first part of the building to enter is the Basilica of the Assumption. The original church, which was first constructed here, was built in the 12th century. It was one of the four main temples of the Czech kingdom, along with the Cathedral of St. Vitus, the Church of St. Peter and Paul and the Břevnov monastery. In the middle of the 13th century, the Strahov monastery suffered a destructive fire. It was rebuilt in a gothic design while maintaining its romanesque floorplan.
But in 1747, after the bombings from the French army, the facade of the church was severely damaged once more. When they began restoring the church’s frontispiece, the project architect Jan Antonin Kvittainer was employed to freshen it up for the modern era using the then trendy baroque style.
The church’s interior also features robust baroque designs, with a series of lavish frescoes covering the entire ceiling. There are 46 paintings in total representing scenes from the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary, the Life of St. Norbet, and the Marian cycle. Each one of these was painted by J. V. J. Neunherz in 1743. Each one is surrounded by these lush gilded stucco carvings highlighting the artwork within. Almost like a gallery wall mounted on the ceiling.
Walking down the aisle, take in the beauty of the series of cartouches located beside the rows of pews. Each one is dedicated to a different saint created by painter Leopold Willmann. At the end of the aisle, you find the great altar. Atop it is the magnificent carving of the Virgin Mary’s Assumption for whom the church is named after.
Chapel of St. Norbert
Walking back down the aisle, continue to the right side of the church, where you’ll find a tiny chapel that juts out from the northern edge of the basilica. This is the Chapel of St. Norbert. The original chapel, which was located here, was built in 1258 and dedicated to St. Ursula. The newer baroque version was converted in 1745 after the church acquired the holy relics from St. Nobert himself.
Above the chapel is a small dome featuring a fresco of the Martyrdom of St. Ursula, a remnant of the previous chapel’s designs. The frescoes were painted by Siard Neosecky. In this painting, we can see St. Ursula being made a martyr along with her handmaids. The legend goes that Ursula went on her pilgrimage to Rome to dedicate herself to god. But before they would reach their destination, Ursula and her handmaids were attacked by Huns and murdered. The fresco is a powerful image full of fire and violence. It seems to grow wilder and wilder as the painting inches towards the dome’s centre, where it also appears to be set alight. Inside the small chapel, you can also find the reliquaries containing St. Ursula’s remains. Nearby is the the rococo sarcophagus containing St. Nobert’s remains, made in 1755.
Strahov Library
Also attached to the same building is the Strahov Library. The library was one of the first parts of the monastery which was built when the entire complex was constructed. Throughout the years, it was destroyed and rebuilt, time after time, war after war. Many of their precious books were stolen. Despite this, every time they rebuilt it, they sought to make their library even grander. Today, the library stands as a jewel of the Baroque era.
To enter the library required admission. Adults are 150 CZK ($6.50 USD) and students or children are 80 CZK ($3.40 USD). The library has three parts that visitors can explore: the Grand Philosophical Hall, The Baroque Theological Hall and the Cabinets of Curiosities. Looking from floor to ceiling at this ornately designed library will literally take your breath away. It contains over 42,000 ancient philosophical texts, sprawling along the walls like a wave of knowledge. I would highly recommend giving it a visit! More information on the library can be found here.
Černín Palace
Head back the way you came in until you reach the grand Černín Palace. Černín Palace, now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was built in the 1660s by diplomat Humprecht Jan Černín z Chudenic, the Habsburg imperial ambassador to Venice and Rome. Chudenic was incredibly vain and saw himself as more important than even the emperor. He built his palace in a location that was just higher up than Prague Castle, making his palace appear more prominent.
Loreto Sanctuary
Behind the Černín Palace, you’ll find the buttercream frosted Church of Loreto. The name “Loreto” references the little cottage in which the Virgin Mary lived in Nazareth before becoming the mother of god. There are several “Loreto” churches all over the world. While visiting the one in Italy, Countess Kateřina Benigna of Lobkowicz fell so deeply in love with it that she entrusted a fair share of her wealth to Prague’s construction of their own Loreto. The church was built in 1626 by an Italian architect to ensure this church was a faithful reproduction of the same Italian version which the countess first fell in love with.
I love the statues which decorate the facade church and are dotted along with the exterior balustrade. The perky faces of these chubby cherubs seem to welcome you in. On the frontispiece of the church are statues of various Czech saints such as St. Felix, František, Antonín and John of Nepomuk. In the central archway leading into the church is a beautifully carved emblem which represents the alliance between the families who donated money to create the church, Filip Lobkowicz and his wife, Eleonora Karolína.
Standing outside the church, take a moment to look up at the imposing bell tower above. Inside the bell tower is a carillon of 27 bells which ring every hour from 9 am to 6 pm. The bell’s musical sound was designed by famed watchmaker Peter Neumann. The bells are immovable and are rung solely by a clock mechanism. Considering this carillon was built in 1695 the technology to create such a wide range of music seems rather ahead of its time. Every hour you can hear the song, “Marian song Thousands of greetings to you” play throughout the square. On the top of the tower, see if you can spot the crowning dove which is set against a golden aureole, the symbol of the holy spirit.
Loreto Treasury
Walking into the church the first room you’ll enter is the Loreto Treasury. This area houses a collection of rare liturgical objects. Some of these historical pieces of ecclesiastical design are some of the most precious treasures in the nation. The most impressive one has to be the Diamond Monstrance, otherwise called the “Prague Sun.” A monstrance is an object designed to hold the consecrated communion wafers. The piece simply radiates with light as there are 6,222 diamonds set within it. This is what gave it the nickname of the “Prague Sun” as it seems to shine brighter than the even the sun in the sky.
Santa Casa
Head into the cloisters where you’ll find my favourite part of the church, the Santa Casa. Crammed in the center of the small grassy courtyard is the intricately carved “Santa Casa” or “Holy Hut”. The entirety building is covered in magnificent stucco reliefs which depict scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary. Set amongst the little vignettes are statues of the prophets who predicted the birth of the Virgin Mary. The structure’s shape and design is a replica of the house where the Virgin Mary lived during her life in Nazareth. You could definitely spend a good amount of time encircling the building studying all the different carvings so it’s best to find one which you are really drawn to and focus on that particular one.
On either side of the Santa Casa are two wonderfully charming fountains with huge sculptures set inside the water feature. The one of the left depicts the “Resurrection of Christ,” and the one on the right depicts the “Assumptions of the Virgin Mary.” Both of these were made by artists J. M. Bruderle and R. J. Prachner in 1738.
The cloisters surrounding the Holy Hut were built in the 18th century and contain a series of chapels dedicated to saints who protect people against disease and suffering. The most popular of these chapels is the Chapel of the Ecstasy of St. Francis. Within the chapel, you’ll find a stunning painting of the Stigmatisation of St. Francis, with the saint flying on a great chariot, painted by P. Brandl.
Church of the Nativity
Continuing onwards, we enter the main nave of the Church of the Nativity. While the church feels small, it does not feel insignificant. The interior swells with richly carved marble columns and ostentatious decorations everywhere you look. Along the perimeter of the church are several marble altars and fantastical oratories that contain precious relics. The main altar is carved from a great piece of red and white marble and features a painting of the Nativity of Christ by J. J. Heinsch set within it.
On the ceiling are a series of incredible frescoes. The scene portrays the newborn baby Jesus being worshipped by the Magi. The ceiling is painted to looks like there is an illusory gallery with a large balustrade lining the perimeter. Behind the balustrade are characters from the nativity, including the magi themselves. Above them, we can see the celestial images of God surrounded by a choir of angels who look down lovingly at the scene below.
In addition to the people, there is also a collection of exotic animals that surround the mother and newborn baby. The other vaults in the church depict moments from the childhood of Jesus in chronological order from the entrance towards the presbytery.
The Spanish saints Felicissimus and Marcis stand as wax models inside the church. Each of them dressed up in period-appropriate Spanish attire. These wax models are a form of reliquary, a container for the physical remains of the saints. Each one was modelled after the true form of the saint. They are each covered in rare fabrics, rich embroideries and precious jewels to distinguish them as holy objects. Pilgrims come from all over the world to worship in front of their models as if they were really there themselves.
The oldest artwork inside the church is the Gothic Pieta, dating back to the 15th century. She can be found in the Chapel of the Virgin Mary of Sorrows. Despite the relatively simple carving methods used here, such emotion is still found on the mother’s faces as she clutches her dead son’s body.
Novy Svet
Walking north up Kapucínská street, we come up with the steeply set Novy Svet. Novy Svet, or “New World,” is a street in Prague that seems free of the tourist hoards seen elsewhere in the city. The area dates back to the 14th century when a large ravine, previously located here, was filled in to create more housing for the workers required to support the construction of Prague Castle. On one side of the road is a thick old wall, which looks like it is barely hanging onto the hillside. Some of the stones on this wall are remnants of the old city walls, which once divided the city of Hradčany from the rest of Prague. On the opposite side of the wall are a series of beautiful houses, some dating back to the 17th century.
Church of St. John of Nepomuk
Before heading to our next stop, take a short detour, towards the Church of St. John of Nepomuk. St. John of Nepomuk is one of the most important saints in the Czech Republic. This church, therefore, holds great importance to Prague’s history. The original church built on this site was made for the Order of Voršilek. One of the nuns of the order made it her life goal to see that John of Nepomuk was made a saint.
The nun had had a lame hand for years, infected with scabies, and doctors said it could not be fixed. As the infection worsened, she was at risk of losing her hand entirely. She came to Prague, where she knew St. John was preaching and asked him to bless her. She claimed that when St. John of Nepomuk blessed her hand she was cured of the infection none of the doctors had been able to heal. This was seen as the fourth miracle performed by St. John of Nepomuk, ensuring his sainthood.
After St. John of Nepomuk was proclaimed a saint, this church was rebuilt as a cathedral in his name. In 1720 the first stone was laid. It was built in the high baroque style of the times. In a niche atop of the clock tower stands a sculptor of St. John of Nepomuk himself surrounded by angels.
But soon after its consecration in 1728, the monastery fell into great financial trouble and closed its door. The building was left abandoned and eventually used by the city as a salt warehouse until 1861. It was reconsecrated in 1902 when it returned to the ownership of the Catholic church. However, the interiors had since been ransacked and their precious treasures sold off to pay debts.
Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat
We are now headed towards the Royal Summer Palace. But instead of taking the roadway back over the eastern side of Hradcany, we will take the small, pedestrian-only pathway called Vstup Jelení Příkop or the Deer Moat. This large expanse of forest was initially a hunting ground for the royals in the early part of the 17th century where the court would hunt deer, hence the name. During this time the grounds were also used to house a variety of animal enclosures for the King’s menagerie.
Powder Bridge
Walking towards U Prašného mostu, turn to the right and stand atop the Powder Bridge. This bridge overlooks the Deer Moat and leads right into Prague Castle’s second courtyard. The first bridge installed here was built in 1535 to connect Prague Castle to the newly created Royal Gardens in the summer palace. The name of the bridge comes from the fact that during the early days of Prague Castle, the Mihulce tower, located behind the bridge, was used to store gunpowder. At the time, insulation and air-tight construction weren’t highly developed. Therefore gunpowder would often blow out the windows of the tower and land on the nearby bridge. This gave it the nickname, ‘Powder Bridge’ as more often then not dustings of gunpowder would cover the entire pathway.
The original bridge burned down in 1541. Various reconstructions were made over and over throughout the years as the bridge seemed plagued with misfortune. It was even victim to a bombing during the Prussian wars of 1757. The current stone version was made in the 18th century and still stands today.
Prague Riding School
Continue up the street until you reach the Prague Castle Riding School. This cream coloured building was built in the 17th century to teach the nobility of Prague the skills required to become adept horsemen. The baroque facade is relatively simple, with just a few stucco ornaments above the window and along the facade’s roofline. The stucco designs at the top of the building, above the doors, are carved into the shape of two jumping horses. On either side of the horses are the busts of a Turc and a blackmoor surrounded by various weapons. The original riding school was used by the nobility for horse games and tournaments. Today it is used primarily as an exhibition center.
The Royal Garden
Just up past the Riding school, you’ll find the Royal Garden entrance on your right-hand side. The Royal gardens are open to the public, so anyone can come inside and enjoy the splendours of this 16th-century lush enclosure. The gardens were designed in 1540 for Emperor Ferdinand I of Habsburg to surround his new Summer Palace. At the time of its construction, the park was one of the best examples of renaissance gardens in the Czech Republic.
When it was first built, the gardens were for the royal family’s personal use only. Here they could come to relax and play games, away from the eyes of the court and the public. Later in the 18th century, the garden was renovated to suit the new baroque style of the time. Today, the garden resembles more of a 19th-century English park where the plentiful fruit trees have been replaced with more sustainable decorative shrubs.
Royal Ball Game Hall
To the south, just after you enter the park, you’ll see a large stone building absolutely adorned in some of the most intricate sgraffito carvings. This is the old Royal Ball Game Hall. These carvings depict allegories of the four earthly elements along with images of art and science. All of these images are intertwined within floral designs making the entire piece so visually rich and eye-catching.
The Royal Ball Game Hall was built in 1597 and used as a place for nobles to gather to watch and participate in sporting activities, away from the public’s eye. During WWII, the building was burned down by the Nazis as they retreated from the allies. Thankfully it was able to be restored in 1950. If you look closely, you can see the symbols of the hammer and sickle, which were added in the 50’s when the communist party was responsible for the restorations.
Singing Fountain
In front of the Summer Palace, at the edge of the park, is a large fountain. Surrounding it are geometrically shaped garden beds, whose flowers bloom in all the colours of the rainbow in the spring and summer. The fountain is called the “Singing Fountain” as people say that the water spilling from the top of the fountain into the basin plays a little song. Listening closely to see if you can hear it. Holding up the upper basin of the fountain is a series of bronze sculptures depicting mythological gods tightly knit together.
Queen Anne’s Summer Palace
The Royal Summer Palace is also referred to as Queen Anna’s Summerhouse. The palace is named after Ferdinand I’s wife, Anna Jagiellon. The building’s facade is a fine example of Italian Renaissance architecture made by Italian architect Paolo Della Stella. The palace’s roof is especially attractive, as its curved shape was meant to resemble the bottom of a ship’s hull. The exterior of the building features 36 columns creating a beautiful arcade around the palace. In between each of the columns, are arches covered in reliefs of royal hunts, historical battles and characters from greek and roman mythology.
Sitting in the peace and quiet of the Royal Summer gardens is a perfect place to end our tour as we reach the outskirts of Hradčany. I hope you enjoyed this walk across this part of Prague.
Let me in the comments if you’ve visited Hradčany before or what part of the Prague you are most looking forward to exploring.
Happy Travels Adventurers.
2 COMMENTS
Yana Hatina
4 years agovery nice insightful and it is very detailed – I am from Prague and I wouldn’t be able to put it as nicely detailed as You did
Excellent
laura.f.whelan
4 years ago AUTHORThanks so much! Hearing that is one of the greatest compliments I could ask for!