Far to the east of the leafy, quiet streets of La Condesa, north of the busy Historic Centre, lies perhaps the most delightful marketplace you’ll find in Mexico City; the Mercado Jamaica or Jamaica Market. The Mercado Jamaica is home to the largest flower market in the city, with over 1,150 stalls selling over 5,000 different varieties of flowers! Almost all of them are grown just a few hours from Mexico City. You really can’t get any more local than that! Walking into the flower market you are overcome with the scents and scenes all around you. The Mercado Jamaica is one of my favourite markets to visit for an absolutely sensory sensation! If you’ve never visited Mexico City before this is the kind of place you NEED to check out.
A Welcome Bouquet
I find that a bouquet of fresh flowers is the perfect thing to buy yourself upon arriving in a new city. It gives you a little task to complete, allows you to explore a new part of the city, and brings a touch of your personality into any standard hotel room. If you’ve been in Mexico City for any length of time, you’ll undoubtedly have seen the vast flower carts that wheel around the city. Bursting with brightly coloured flowers as they mill about the streets.
There are also beautiful flower stands that dot the edges of busy neighbourhoods and leafy promenades. Basically, you won’t be far from flowers anywhere you go in Mexico City! But the source of all these incredible flowers is the great Mercado Jamaica. So if you want to get your flowers from the source, a trip to Mercado Jamaica is well worth your time. But there is so much more to see in this marketplace than just flowers. Come hungry as this flower market is also home to some of the most amazing food anywhere in the city!
Location & How to Get there?
The Mercado Jamaica is located on the corner of Avenida Congreso de la Unión and Avenida Morelos, southeast of the Historic Center of Mexico City.
Uber
Uber is always my best recommendation for travel in Mexico City. It’s very safe and very cheap! The Mercado Jamaica is about a 13-minute ride from La Condesa, Roma Norte or the Historic Centre. And it will only cost you about 35 pesos or $1.35 USD! Although traffic in Mexico City is as bad as you might have heard, just avoid peak hours and you should be fine to avoid the worst of the traffic.
Metro
The market is also easily accessible by the metro. If you are departing from La Condesa or Roma you can hop on brown line #9. Get on at Chilpancingo station and take the train four stops to Jamaica station (about 12 minutes). If you are departing from the Historic Centre, you’ll need to take two different metro lines. First, depart from the #2 blue line from Tasqueña station and take it three stops to Chabacano station (6 mins). Transfer from here to the brown line #9 and continue one stop towards Jamaica station (3 mins). The metro costs only 5 pesos, and if you’re up for more of an adventurous journey, this is an easy and quick trip. But always be sure to practice caution on the metro and keep your valuables safe and not on display.
History of the Jamaica Market
Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica is actually the Spanish word for hibiscus flower. So the name of the market translates into the Hibiscus Market. The Mercado Jamaica was officially established in the 1950s when the eastern part of Mexico City was a governmental focus for modernization and revitalization. But outdoor marketplaces have existed in this spot for hundreds of years. Being located to the east of the city, near the chinampas of Lake Xochimilco, this part of town has always had wonderful access to the fruits, vegetables and flowers that have been grown there for centuries.
Tips
Cash is King
Bring cash with you to the market to buy your flowers and food as almost everywhere is cash only. But remember not to carry too much money on you when arriving as you need to be aware of pickpockets in such a busy environment. I would bring about 500 pesos ($25 USD) per person, which is more than enough if you want to buy yourself a lovely bouquet, grab some food and get a little left if you see a souvenir or two you’d like to purchase.
Come Hungry!
Despite the fact that we are going to what is known for being a “flower market” this is still a foodie’s paradise so come on an empty stomach and get ready to eat. If you get full but want to come back for more food later you can always grab a bite to eat to start, then explore the flower market, and return to the starting point where you can sample the rest of the eateries you didn’t try earlier.
How to Keep Safe
This market is slightly outside the tourist centre, so you should be more cautious about your belongings. But no more than you should be in any busy marketplace anywhere in the world. Keeping aware of your surroundings is the most important thing you can do. If you carry a backpack, you can wear it in front of you. And always be sure to keep any valuables zipped inside inner pockets. Remember, this is a very busy, working market, so be sure not to stand in the way of people going about their business. Large carts and trucks often go up and down the aisles making deliveries, so keep a lookout for them.
Notes on Photography
I took many pictures here, had my phone out, and never felt unsafe. But I would advise you to take out your phone or camera, snap a few pictures and then put it away instead of just keeping it in your hand. This is probably not 100% necessary, but I always lean on the side of caution.
Be sure you keep a keen eye open for the “No Photography” signs around the market. There are several reasons for this. Some florists are wary of other sellers stealing their designs so they don’t allow photos of their products. Other vendors might have personal reasons for not being photographed, spiritual or simply, for privacy. No matter the reason, please respect their wishes. Many places in the market do not have these signs, so you’ll be able to get all the pictures you need elsewhere. If in doubt, it’s always polite to ask before taking a picture.
When To Go
The best time for fresh flowers in Mexico City is from April to July. Although flowers are available year-round from greenhouses, this time of year is when you can get the flowers for the cheapest price as they are the most abundant. I would advise you to avoid going here on the weekends. This is when the market is the busiest and most chaotic. I found that visiting on the weekdays meant there was still lots to see, buy, and eat, but the atmosphere was a bit more laid back. Because this market also exports flowers around the world and throughout the country, this is the only market in Mexico City that is open 24 hours a day! So you can be sure that no matter when you visit there is something to see!
Holidays
If you find yourself in Mexico City during the Day of the Dead festivities, Mercado Jamaica is incredible to check out. It is the main supplier of hundreds of thousands of flowers that adorn ofrendas all over the city. The market is filled to bursting during this time of year, with truckloads of marigolds coming to and from every day! Marigolds are called ‘cempaxuchitl‘ in Spanish, which means “flower of the dead.” Since they are one of the most fragile flowers they have been known to represent the fragility of life itself.
Another fantastic time of year to come to Mercado Jamaica is at Christmas time. Even in Mexico City, you’ll find hundreds of evergreen Christmas trees lining the outside of the marketplace, ready to be picked up by excited families to nestle their presents under. Inside you’ll find hundreds of poinsettias, as this Christmas flower is locally grown in Mexico. The piñatas are a real showstopper at Christmas time, and you’ll find one in almost every household. Piñatas were traditionally designed in the shape of a seven coned star, with each spoke representing one of the seven deadly sins. Bashing the piñata was the symbol of good triumphing over evil and the fruit and candy inside the reward for leading a good, Christian life.
Helpful Spanish
Here are some handy dandy Spanish words to help you out at the Market! The colours will be very helpful to learn so you can ask for the right coloured flowers to suit your bouquet.
¡Buenas Dias! or ¡Buenas Tardes! / Good Morning or Good Afternoon (always use this to greet a vendor)
¿Cuánto cuesta? / How much is this?
¡Muchas gracias! / Thanks a lot!
una docena / one dozen
blanco / white
amarillo / yellow
anaranjado / naranjo – orange
rojo / red
rosado / pink
morado / púrpura – purple
The Layout of the Market
The Mercado Jamaica is divided into different areas called “carrils” which means lanes. The northernmost building is almost totally devoid of flowers and is primarily where you’ll find amazing street food. I’ve noted it as the “food market” on the map below. There are maps inside the market but they are few and far between so I went ahead and made my own. As you wander south, you’ll enter Carril #4. As you can see from the map below, marked in green, this section of the market sells “Articulos de 1ra Necesidad” which is like saying grocery items. This is where you’ll find produce, candies, dried peppers, toys and piñatas.
It’s not until the southernmost sections, Carril #2 and #1 that you’ll start to see the true enormity of the flower market. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived. There are two sets of public washrooms in the market. Be sure to bring a 5 peso coin with you as they usually charge a small fee to use the washroom and get a handful of toilet paper when you go inside.
If you arrive via the metro, you should come out of the station on the north side of the market, along Avenue Morelos. If you’re arriving by Uber, set your destination to the northeast corner of the market. At the corner of Avenue Morelos and H. Congreso de la Union.
Carnitas Paty
Your first stop should be at a long communal table right at the front of the market outside the food stall Carnitas Paty. Pig heads hang in the butcher shops down the aisle, and you know right away you’re in the place to get pork! Carnitas Paty specializes in different cuts of meat served up on a double stack of fresh corn tortillas. I would go for the Costilla (ribs), lengua (tongue – which, yes, is amazing) or the trompa (roasted pork).
All the tacos come topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! All their tacos cost 30 pesos, and you can sample the various salsaa spread out on the table for an extra kick.
Tepache
To pair with your tacos, you must try their tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It has that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It is super sweet but delicious and definitely helps cleanse the palette after fatty pork tacos. It’s really the perfect combination! You can get a litre for 30 pesos, a half litre for 15 pesos or just a glass for 12 pesos.
Huaraches Rossy
Beside the Carnitas stand, you can find another stall called Huaraches Rossy. Huaraches are a Mexican street food staple made from a piece of masa dough. The dough is mixed with pinto beans and rolled into an oblong, similar to the shape of the sole of a Huarache shoe, hence the name. The dough is then fried on the comal (grill) and crowned with various toppings.
The huaraches at Huaraches Rossy are known for their sides consisting of a slice of fresh avocado, a cooked nopal pad, fried greens onions and lemon. You can get your Huarache with fried eggs (huevos), cheese (queso), ribs (Costilla), chicken breast (pechuga) and more. My favourite option if you arrive in the morning is fried eggs and cheese. Each huarache costs 65 pesos or $3.30 USD.
Mariscos Los Paisas
One of the most famous street food stalls in Mercado Jamaica is Mariscos Los Paisas. They are best known for their famous tacos Al pastor made with octopus instead of the traditional pork shoulder. The stacked octopi are spinning around the spit as the chefs coat them in that iconic red al pastor sauce. If you only want to try the octopus tacos, you can simply order one of those, but my recommendation (if you’re a seafood lover) is to go for the trio of tacos. This consists of Carnitas de Atún (tuna tacos), Pulpo al Pastor (octopus al pastor) and Suadero con Camaron (stewed shrimp tacos). Although Mexico City is far from the ocean, they still have access to the fantastic seafood that the oceanside towns are known for. And this is one of the best places in the city to give these dishes a try.
Piñata Market
Walking deeper into the market, into the next building (Carril #4) you will start to see large stalls selling hundreds and hundreds of pinatas. Mercado Jamaica is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent-up frustration over the loss of the last two years. These stands also sell lots of toys, party decorations and little candies perfect to stuff inside the pinatas.
Fresh Fruit Stands
In this part of the market, you’ll also find rows and rows of vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Many different fruits are stacked high up on tables, they look like little gems as they are so brightly coloured and shiny. Some vacuum sealed inside pre-made fruit baskets ready to be presented as a delicious gift.
There is a myriad of different fruit on sale at the market. Many of which I had never even heard of before, let alone tasted. If you’re in town for a few days, I implore you to just go out and buy a selection of different fruits to try! Even if you have no idea what they are, they cost very little, and it’s so much fun to do a little taste test at home to see which ones are your favourite.
Fruit doesn’t need to be cooked so there’s no need for a kitchen. But you will need a good knife to cut into most fruits. I often ask the vendors if they can cut it open and then put it in a bag. If not, you can always find a vendor in the market who sells kitchen knives.
What to Try
If you’re interested in a selection of my favourite options, I would start with the Soursop (or guanabana). This fruit is tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. It’s a large, green fruit with a hard rind and big spikes. You also should find some black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! It is indeed black when you cut into it, and you can eat it out of the rind with only a spoon. The black zapote is actually green on the outside and similar in shape to a persimmon.
Chirimoya also blew my mind! The Chirimoya is also called the “custard apple” as the flesh inside the fruit is soft and the colour of custard. But it tastes like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. Mark Twain is known for calling the Chirimoya “the most delicious fruit known to man.” It is about the size of a large apple and has what almost looks like green scales on the outside.
Make sure you also see out some mamey fruit if it’s in season. Mamey is a fruit with brown, hairy skin, but it looks like a sweet potato with the pit of an avocado when you cut into it. It is like a combination of apricot, sweet potato and peach. I love the flavour, especially in a smoothie.
Jamaica Flowers
As the name of the market suggests, you’ll find lots of dried Jamaica (hibiscus) flowers. They can be found in huge, dark purple piles hidden away inside large barrels. The flower heads themselves look like a spikey, shrivelled version of the fresh flower. Jamaica or hibiscus flowers came to Mexico after colonization and actually originated from Africa. The most popular way to use dried flowers in Mexico is in Aguas Frescas. Aguas Fresca translates to “fresh water” and are amazingly refreshing beverages made from, water mixed with a variety of different flavours. The most popular flavour is Jamaica. The drink is made by boiling dried flowers (like you’d do with ta) and mixing them with water, sugar, ginger, and cinnamon. The flavour is incredible and definitely one of my favourite ways to compliment a spicy taco.
One of my friends also often adds just one dried flower to her pot of cardamon tea, and let me tell you, it’s life-changing! So be sure to grab yourself some dried hibiscus flowers when you’re in the market. If you’re travelling back to the US or Canada, just make sure they are in a sealed bag, but many places in the market do sell them like this if you ask.
Chorizo Verde
Among the fruits and vegetable stands, there is a butcher shop that sells one of the most unique tacos I’ve ever had! You’ll spot their shop by the bright yellow exterior, but there is no store sign outside. You’ll be able to recognize it by the large display of green herbs laid out beneath the meats on sale right out front. As well to fresh meat to bring home for dinner, they also have fresh tacos to sample right there in the Market. Order yourself up a green chorizo taco and take a seat on the small tables out front.
The green chorizo is made from pork sausage, mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season. After this, they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. I cannot explain how unbelievable the taste of this taco is; you just have to try it for yourself.
Flower Market
As you head further south into the market, you’ll finally start to smell the aroma of fresh flowers. Follow your nose towards the brightly coloured flowers which seem to almost erupt from the ground. Walking around the flower market is the best kind of chaos. People are milling about, grabbing cartfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cry over one other as people haggled for the best prices.
Enormous sunflowers, roses, chrysanthemums, gerbera daisies and lilies line the edges of the aisles in huge brightly coloured buckets. A dozen long stem roses were on sale for only $50 pesos, which is $2.50 USD! A dozen sunflowers about 6 feet tall were on sale for $90 pesos, just 4.60. I couldn’t believe the prices, and it took everything in me not to just go nuts and buy it all. Prices were the best when I visited as it was during the Springtime. If you visit in the winter expect prices to be slightly higher as the flowers are less abundant and need to be ground in greenhouses as opposed to the chinampas.
Florists
As you move through the wholesale market, you’ll come into another section that sells MASSIVE pre-made bouquets from a myriad of different florists. These monumental displays are meant for funerals, communions, weddings and quinceañeras. The flowers are formed into giant hearts, large crosses, and baskets as big as a small child. Apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy these huge floral arrangements is to apologize for cheating on their wives or girlfriends. The bigger the bouquet, the more sorry you’ll appear. Especially to the neighbours who can’t help but notice you walking home, with this typical guilty display.
La Güera Elotes
At the end of the market, right near the exit doors onto Guillermo Prieto street, is a small shop called La Güera Elotes, selling popular Mexican street food, but elevated to another level. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels stewed in lard, mixed with aromatic herbs and Arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here. A small cup costs $20 pesos, a medium is $22, and a large is $25.
You can also get Elotes, which is the same idea, but instead, the corn is grilled on the cob. They offer a specialty here called ‘dorielotes,’ which covers the corn cob mayo which is rolled in crushed Doritos! The store is also famous for its pan de elote, or cornbread. Unlike American cornbread, which is more of a savoury treat, their cornbread is like a cake. It’s very sweet and absolutely fantastic! It’s a bit dry, so be sure to have a drink on hand.
Mural
Before leaving the market, make sure you stop outside along Highway Congreso de la Unión to see the incredible murals painted along the outside of the Mercado Jamaica. Muralism in Mexico is such a popular thing to see everywhere you go. But the murals outside this market are so enormous, and it’s amazing to see the works of art that span the entirety of the building! There is always a new work of art to discover as they change throughout the year. To the delight of the vendors, everyday shoppers, tourists as well as the drivers who pass by on the highway on their way to work. Murals are truly such an incredible way to liven up a street and bring so much joy to an otherwise blank exterior. Much like flowers, that bring life into an otherwise bland space.
I hope you enjoyed this tour of Mercado Jamaica! It’s honestly one of my favourite markets in Mexico City and well worth the time it takes to get here. Despite being a little out of the way, there is so much to see and do here so you’ll really feel like it’s worth the 20-minute drive from the city centre. Let me know in the comment what your favourite market is either in Mexico City or around the world
Happy Travels, Adventurers!
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