One of the best Japanese pastimes is heading on down to the Onsen to soak in their healing waters. This is not just a gimmick for tourists. Locals have been finding peace and restorative properties inside these waters for hundreds of years. Going to an Onsen in Japan can feel like an intimidating situation as public bathing, especially in the nude, isn’t something most people are used to. And while it might feel awkward at first, I hope this guide helps you prepare as best you can for your first trip to the Onsen as this is one of my favourite things to do to relax in Japan. It’s definitely something you can’t miss out on!
I completely fell in love with onsens on my first trip to Japan. I love European thermal baths, so when I heard Japan had their own bathing culture, I was excited to try it. While getting into the buff is a strange feeling at first, I found there was also something really liberating about it. You’d be surprised how quickly any discomfort disappears as you soak into the calming waters and look at the beautiful scenery all around. It just lulls you into a serene trance and you leave your inhibitions at the door.
An ‘Onsen ‘is the Japanese word for hot spring. Since Japan is a volcanically active country, there are thousands of natural onsens all over the place. The “Onsen” refers not only to the water itself but also to the facilities surrounding the hot springs. Onsen will often be marked with the “♨” symbol on the map. You might recognize this symbol from your emoji keyboard! You know something is a big deal when it reaches emoji status! If you’re ever wandering around a new city and see flags or signage for the onsen, you should definitely check it out!
Some smaller onsens consist of just two large bathing areas, one for the women and one for the men. Other onsens are more like theme parks with many different bathing areas and pools of all different designs. Onsens are typically located in the most scenic Japanese landscapes. Many onsens will be attached to a Ryokan where you can stay the night in these incredible locations. Sitting in the pools, it looks like you have found yourself in a secret garden. The water nestled right under a canopy of trees all around you.
Inside the Onsen, the pools of water may be set at a variety of different temperatures. They are usually between 98-100 degrees. Even in the winter, the natural springs from the earth as still just as warm and a great way to enjoy the outdoors in the cold months. There is also a version of the Onsen called the “mizu-buro,” which is a cold water onsen. Taking a chilly dip into these waters is supposed to help with the heart and increases blood circulation.
You might also find “Sentōs” when you are travelling around Japan. The only difference between sentōs and onsens is that sentōs heat the water for their public baths from a regular water heater rather than getting it from a natural hot spring. These are more commonly found in areas where there are no volcanic waters, but people still love to relax in a public hot bath.
The natural volcanic spring water contains many different minerals which are said to provide lots of health benefits. It helps with muscle relaxation, increased blood circulation, insomnia and stress, and even cure some skin conditions.
Onsens and Sentōs can be found pretty much everywhere you go in Japan. Even in Tokyo’s city center, some capsule hotels are known for the onsens included in your stay. But if you want a real, natural springs experience you need to head outside the city and into the scenic countryside.
One of the best places to go is Hakone. Hakone is located just over an hour outside of Tokyo but feels like another world. Hakone is home to the sulphur springs of the Owakudani Valley, and it produce some of the most healing waters in Japan.
Kusatsu is probably the most famous “onsen town”. An onsen town is a place that became famous only because of the onsens which surround it. People come from all over just to soak in the waters. There wasn’t initially much else to do in these onsen towns other than the onsen itself. Although over the years, with increased tourism, more and more restaurants and attractions have popped up to entertain tourists. But the focus is still on relaxation.
If you are travelling to the south end of Japan, you should visit Kyushu, where you can find the Kurokawa onsen. This Onsen is much more rustic and frequented mostly by locals, but this gives it a traditional atmosphere and unique experience. It feels very much like going back in time to the Japan of yesteryear.
Walking around onsen towns, especially in the winter, is a really cool experience as the hot steam from the springs, pops up practically all over town. Creating streets thick with steam. It’s so cool to find little jets of hot air gushing out from little holes in the ground here and there.
Since Onsens are not just a tourist attraction, they are filled with locals throughout the year. Weekends are to be avoided if possible if you are looking for a quieter time to visit. I also recommend avoiding public holidays. The quieter it is inside, the more comfortable you might feel like a newbie rather than being packed in a crowded bath.
I would also recommend avoiding an onsen in the summer. The waters are already pretty warm, and the summer’s added heat and humidity can make this a very uncomfortable experience unless you REALLY like it hot! Visiting an onsen in the winter is actually the perfect way to get warm in the colder months. Despite many onsens being located outdoors, the heat from the springs doesn’t diminish in the cold, and you can easily sit outside in the waters for a long time without feeling too chilly. Plus, you can enjoy the scenic snowfall on the mountains and forest around you without wearing a million layers.
Inside many larger onsens, you will have the option of going into the public areas or renting a private room. The public spaces are separated by gender, so if you are looking to experience the onsen with your partner or friend of the opposite gender, you’ll need to opt for a private room. Private rooms come with your own bath and are typically much more expensive than the public onsens. An entry ticket to a public onsen is usually under $20 US, whereas private rooms cost upwards of $60/hour.
But the price difference is worth it to some. I experienced both, and I found that if you are timid but are really interested in experiencing the Onsen’s wonders, the private baths are the best option for you. They can also feel much more romantic and peaceful. I loved my experience in the private Onsen in Hakone with my partner; it felt like our second honeymoon.
When you arrive at the Onsen, you will need to first pay admission to get inside. Some of the most popular onsens can book reservations online. Booking reservations aren’t essential unless you want a private bath as those are usually limited in number and during busy times of the year can book up fast. Booking online does ease the process of checking in, but it’s not required.
Smaller onsens in countryside towns might not even have an attendant at the front door during certain times of the year when they are not as busy. It’s just not worth it to them to pay someone to work there when there are so few visitors. In this case, there is a vending machine at the front where you can buy your entry ticket to get inside. In these cases, remember to bring cash since many smaller onsens are cash only.
If you are staying in a Ryokan, your hotel room will usually give you towels and a yukata to bring to the Onsen. If you aren’t staying in a Ryokan but have towels in your hotel room, you should bring them with you to the Onsen as they aren’t typically provided. Some onsens will rent towels and robes out at the front entrance, but the smaller ones may not, so you’ll be out of luck if you arrive without out. If you ever run into a situation where you don’t have a towel, and they don’t rent any out, run to your local 100 yen shop as they will always have something. And often these can be even cheaper than renting the towels from the onsen itself.
When you arrive at a public onsen, you will take off your shoes as soon as you step through the doors. Some onsen requires you to wash your feet before even entering the main reception area. Once you take your shoes off, you put them into a small cubby at the front. Don’t worry about not locking them up if there are no keyed cubbies; Japan is such a safe country you don’t need to worry about them being stolen.
Once you present your pre-paid ticket or buy your entrance inside, you enter one of two different change rooms. These change rooms lead into the male and females areas of the Onsen. They are generally marked in Japanese lettering on the fabric curtains. Sometimes these are colour-coded; red for women, blue for men. If they are not marked in English, you can always ask the attendant for help.
While almost all onsens are separated by gender, there are a few co-ed onsens around the country. These are called “konyoku” and are great options if you want to experience the Onsen with friends of different genders. Unfortunately, Japan is pretty behind the times when recognizing transgender, genderqueer and intersex people, so konyokus are also better options for those individuals. Konyokus are pretty similar to European nude beaches, and those same rules of propriety should be followed.
About 50% of public onsens do not allow you to come into the baths if you have tattoos. While this is an antiquated rule, for many traditional onsens, it still comes into effect. If you opt for a private onsen room, you won’t need to worry about this rule. I always advise you to ask the Onsen about their tattoo policy before booking to ensure you won’t be disappointed when you arrive.
Once you enter the change room, grab yourself a locker or basket. Put your drying towel, yukata and all the rest of your belonging and clothes inside. And yes, I mean all of your clothes! No bathing suits are allowed. You enter the Onsen wearing nothing but your birthday suit. Although going into a public bath naked might seem pretty intimidating, it’s just one of those things you’ll get used to. Everyone else is naked too. It’s not only you. Public bathing is so common in Japan, so the locals aren’t phased. Don’t worry about feeling like people are looking awkwardly at you – they aren’t.
The one item you are allowed to bring into the onsen area is a small “modest towel.” This tower is there to help with those initial nerves. This small hand towel is meant to hold over your private parts for an extra little bit of coverage if you’re shy. This is never to be dipped right into the water, and you must place it on your head to keep it out of the water once you get into the onsen. Look how the locals are doing it and you’ll catch on immediately.
Before getting into the Onsen, you must take a shower. But these are not western-style stand-up showers. Instead, you’ll usually find a long bar of low shower heads with little stool beside them. You will sit on the stool and wash with the shampoo and body wash provided. No need to bring anything in yourself; it will all be there, ready for you. Many onsens will have various bath areas, and you should always remember to rinse and shower between going in and out of these other areas.
If you find you are getting too hot inside the Onsen, you can always get out, throw your robe or yukata on and relax in the lounge area. Depending on the size and design of the Onsen, this could be something as simple as a series of benches beside a vending machine or a beautiful restaurant set out in the natural environment. A post-bath meal, like a warm bowl of soba in the winter, is one of the best ways to finish off your day at the Onsen.
I hope you get the courage to experience an onsen for yourself on your next trip to Japan. You might just surprise yourself and find it to be one of the best activities on your travels. Let me know if you have been to an onsen before or what other information you might want to know all about them!
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