Welcome to the ancient streets of Barcelona, where history and mystery intertwine in an enticing dance of shadows and secrets. Although Barcelona is renowned for its architectural marvels and vibrant culture, it also harbours a hauntingly rich past hidden within its ancient walls. Our journey on this self-guided walking tour will delve deep into the city’s dark historical depths, peeling back layers of time to reveal enigmatic figures, ghostly apparitions, and harrowing events that have left their spectral imprint on the city’s soul. From the hauntingly beautiful Gothic Quarter to abandoned buildings echoing whispers of their former lives, we will traverse cobblestone streets that have witnessed centuries of triumphs and tragedies.
Arm yourself with curiosity and bravery as we embark on this unforgettable journey through Barcelona’s darker side. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an avid ghost hunter, or simply seeking a unique adventure, this self-guided walking tour promises to be an experience that will linger in your memory forever. The shadows await, and the stories beckon…
Disclaimer
The stories you’ll encounter on this tour have been passed down through generations. As new research and modern investigations shed light on the past, these stories may fade from truth to legend, but they always embody the enduring ghost tales that continue to captivate and haunt the city’s ancient streets.
- Map of Self-Guided Walking Tour
- The Vampire of Barcelona
- Mercado de La Boqueria
- Gran Teatre del Liceu
- Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi
- La Baixada de Santa Eulalia
- The Alchemist House
- Plaça de Sant Felip Neri
- Gothic Quarter
- El Pont Del Bisbe
- Gargoyles of the Cathedral of Barcelona
- Cathedral of Barcelona
- Carrer dels Comtes
- Plaça del Rei
- Casa del Botxí
Map of Self-Guided Walking Tour
The Vampire of Barcelona
We start our tour in the centre of the eclectic and historically rich district of El Raval. El Raval has always had a reputation for being gritty and edgy. Today, people flock here for the thriving arts scene and trendy boutiques. But at the beginning of the 20th century, this neighbourhood was also where the so-called Vampire of Barcelona prowled the streets. Her real name was Enriqueta Martí, known infamously as the child killer of Barcelona. She once resided just a short distance from where we now stand.
Enriqueta Martí
Enriqueta Martí was born in a small town just outside Barcelona in 1868. As a young woman, she moved to Barcelona, like all enterprising young women at the time, to seek an independent life. She originally worked as a nanny to a wealthy family in Barcelona. Enriqueta sold herbal remedies out of her apartment as a side job, a skill she had learned from her father, a talented herbalist. But one day, a wealthy young woman died after taking one of Enriqueta’s potions. The family employed her as a Nanny and was shocked by the revelation of her side job. While Enriqueta was never arrested, they fired her on the spot to ensure they kept their name out of the press.
With no money to pay her rent, she began working as a prostitute in a local brothel. Learning the tricks of the trade, Enriqueta eventually opened her own brothel in El Raval in 1909. From her days working as a prostitute, she knew that there was money to be made for some particularly affluent clients in trading with young girls.
The Kidnappings Begin
Dressed as an old beggar woman, Enriqueta would roam the streets in some of the poorest areas of Barcelona, where she would abduct vulnerable girls living on the street and coerce them to work in her brothel. And, while that makes her villain enough, her corruption didn’t end there. Enriqueta began calling herself a witch doctor, creating elixirs which she marketed as a cure for tuberculosis. The tuberculosis epidemic was catastrophic, with no known cure, and people were willing to try anything. And I mean anything. Enriqueta began draining the blood of the children she captured to make tonics and potions that she claimed could cure tuberculosis, which, of course, they did not. Earning her the name “The Vampire of Barcelona.“
El Raval Terrorized
The neighbourhood was terrorized by the disappearance of many young girls. One fateful day in 1912, a little girl named Teresita Guitart Congost was kidnapped. Previously, the police had been lax in searching for missing, impoverished children despite numerous reports. However, public outrage over their passive response prompted them to act, mainly to appease the media. During one search, Teresita was spotted by a passerby while sitting in a window looking at the street. The police had enough sense to investigate, and when they arrived, they were horrified by what they found.
There was a terrible smell throughout the apartment, and when they opened a locked room, they discovered fifty pitchers, jars, and washbowls with preserved human remains inside. Greasy lard, coagulated blood, children’s hair, powdered bones, pots with potions, ointments, and salves made from horrifying ingredients lined the shelves. Investigators searched two of Enriqueta’s previous residences and uncovered false walls hiding more human remains, including the skull of a three-year-old child.
Enriqueta’s Murder
Enriqueta was held in Reina Amàlia jail and attempted suicide while awaiting trial. She was hospitalized and deemed unfit for trial. The public was outraged, wanting to see her executed for her crimes. Rumours circulated that some wealthy clients who purchased her potions knew about the gruesome ingredients involved and were complicit in the crimes. So when Enriqueta was murdered in prison by her cellmates, many believed the killers had been paid off by these wealthy clients to ensure their names were kept out of the press should she ever face the tribunal. Listen closely as we make our way towards the next stop to see if you can hear the ghostly cries of the nameless children who were victims of the Vampire of Barcelona.
Mercado de La Boqueria
Head to La Rambla and stand before the renowned Mercado de La Boqueria. While bustling with tourists daily, it transforms into a haunt for ancient ghosts at night. Today, a vibrant food market, this spot marked the steps to the original Convent of Sant Joseph de Barcelona, where the Barefoot Carmelites peacefully resided until a tragic turn of events.
On July 25th, 1835, several monks awoke to a strange noise from the church. It was the dead of night, and the rest of the order was asleep. Worrying it might be an intruder, they sped towards the church, but when they opened the doors, they were met by a frightful sight. Chanting loudly in the nave was a choir of skeleton monks, seemingly risen from their graves. After they finished their psalms, the living monks lit some candles and guided the spirits back to their tombs in the convent cemetery. Haunted forever by the unholy sight.
St. James’s Night Riots
Only ten days after the incident, the St. James’s Night riots took place on the church’s steps. Revolutionaries burned the monasteries and churches, and many anarchists entered the church and slaughtered all the monks inside. Were the ghostly singers trying to warn the monks of their doom? We will never know for sure. Today, people say that if you listen closely at night, you can still hear the sounds of these ghostly friars singing in front of the market.
Gran Teatre del Liceu
Walking along La Rambla, stop before the Gran Teatre del Liceu. Amazingly, the building in front of you is still standing. Why is that amazing, you might ask? Well, because it is widely rumoured that this is one of the most cursed sights in Barcelona. In the Middle Ages, this is where huge crowds would gather to watch public executions. Anyone who has researched what might cause an area to become cursed or haunted knows that powerful displays of suffering leave a mark on certain locations. And that is certainly the case here.
In the 16th century, a Trinitarian convent was built on the site, the polar opposite of an execution site. The nuns lived here in relative peace for a time, but in 1835, on that same fateful night, as the Saint Joseph Convent was destroyed, this building was also burnt down. Trapping all the nuns inside to suffer an abysmal fate.
Destroyed by Fire
After the riots subsided, the newly cleared spaces on La Ramblas became prime locations for new developments. Entrepreneurs seized the opportunity to construct the Gran Teatre del Liceu, completed in 1847. However, it wasn’t long before the theatre faced a similar destructive fate as the previous convent. Legend has it that the ghosts of the nuns who perished in the fire were upset to find their sanctuary replaced by a theatre, which the church at the time considered a sinful place. These nuns would likely have been displeased with their new ‘landlords’ for desecrating their sacred space.
In 1861, the Liceu Theatre, then Europe’s largest opera house with 3,500 seats, was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt, but tragedy struck again in 1893 when an anarchist set off two bombs on the season’s opening night, killing twenty people and severely damaging the new stage and seats. The most recent fire occurred in 1994, ignited by a spark that landed on a curtain during routine repairs. It remains unclear whether the ghosts of past tragedies are appeased or if another major fire is imminent…
Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi
Walking east from La Rambla along Carrer del Cardenal Casañas brings you to the tranquil Plaça del Pi, dominated by the imposing Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi with its towering 54-meter spire that attracts ghost hunters. Inaugurated in 1453, the church wasn’t completed until 1497 due to significant construction challenges, including frequently falling bricks and severe financial strains on the architect. Desperate, the architect allegedly struck a deal with the devil, trading his soul for help from the Devil to complete the tower. The architect agreed that the devil could claim his soul upon finishing the 100th step inside the tower. Construction then proceeded without further issues.
However, the architect cunningly halted construction at the 99th step, never completing the tower in his lifetime. He grew old and passed away before the tower could be finished. After his death, his sons continued the work and completed the tower, outsmarting the devil. Enraged at being outwitted, the devil stamped his hoof on the 99th step, leaving a mark to remind all who pass of his presence.
La Baixada de Santa Eulalia
Make your way along the Carrer de L’ave Maria and north Carrer dels Banys Nous, turning right onto La Baixada de Santa Eulalia. This street is named after one of Barcelona’s most revered saints, Santa Eulalia, but its naming stems from a grim chapter in history. It was here that a harrowing event unfolded. In 290 AD, Roman authorities were determined to suppress Christianity at any cost. Eulalia, then just thirteen years old, was known for her stubborn piety. When the governor demanded she renounce her Christian faith, she held firm, unwavering in her devotion. The governor was furious at being disobeyed by a child and sentenced her to thirteen different types of torture, one for each year of her young life.
The 13 Tortures of Santa Eulalia
Santa Eulalia endured thirteen horrific tortures as a punishment for refusing to renounce her Christianity. These tortures included imprisonment, being whipped, tearing off her skin, forced walk on burning embers, mutilation, rubbing her wounds with rough stones, branding with a hot iron, and having boiling oil and molten lead poured over her. Additionally, she was submerged in burning lime, locked in a flea-infested box, rolled down a hill in a barrel lined with sharp objects, and finally, crucified.
Despite enduring horrific tortures, Saint Eulalia remained steadfast, refusing to renounce her faith and affirming her devotion to Christianity until her final moments. Legend has it that her soul ascended to heaven accompanied by white doves upon her death, symbolizing her purity and martyrdom. This street is named after the saint and is reputed to be the location where she was tragically rolled down in a barrel.
The Alchemist House
Turn onto Carrer de Sant Sever and then right onto Calle de l’Arc de Sant Ramon. As you stroll, notice the faint outline of a door on the walls, bricked up long ago, sealing its secrets. This area was once the heart of Barcelona’s Jewish quarter. Here lived a Jewish alchemist and his daughter, known as the most beautiful girl in Barcelona. She secretly dated a handsome Christian knight, hiding the relationship from her father due to his potential disapproval until she was sure of her love.
The Poison Perfume
But the knight wasn’t so noble after all and wanted one thing and one thing alone for the girl. And we all know what that one thing is. The knight was furious when she refused him anything more than a kiss until marriage. After learning of a Jewish Alchemist nearby, the knight sought a lethal potion, claiming it was to seek vengeance for a faithless lover. Despite initial wariness, the alchemist succumbed to the allure of seven gold pieces and brewed a toxic perfume for the knight.
The knight returned the next night, secretly spraying the perfume on a bouquet and pretending to apologize to the girl. When she reached for the bouquet to smell it, she felt dizzy and asked the knight to take her home. When she recounted the incident to her father, he realized his unwitting role. Despite his desperate attempts to save her, she died in his arms. Overwhelmed with grief, the alchemist renounced magic and vanished into the woods, leaving his potions behind. Before he left, he cast a curse on the house’s door to ensure no one ever entered it again. Since then, the building has stood empty, haunted by tragedy.
Plaça de Sant Felip Neri
Walk back to the Calle de Salomó ben Adret and continue north towards the Plaça de Sant Felip Neri. Walking into this square, we are met with the definition of hauntingly beautiful. Beautiful architectural gems surround the leafy courtyard, and the central fountain bubbles in the moonlight. Facing the square is the church of Sant Felip Neri. Constructed in the 18th century, this petite Baroque church stands out from others in the city due to its stone facade riddled with bullet holes. Some are mere punctures, while others have gouged sizable portions from the building. For years, the cause of this damage fueled political speculation, but today, the truth behind the incident has come to light.
Spanish Civil War
Understanding a little about the Spanish Civil War is crucial for any visitor to Spain. From 1936 to 1939, a brutal conflict fueled by political unrest, economic struggles, and social disparities erupted. On July 17th, 1936, right-wing military officers, under General Francisco Franco’s leadership, initiated a coup against the democratically elected Second Spanish Republic. In contrast, the Republicans, comprising Socialists, Communists, and Anarchists, rallied to defend the Republic and advocate for progressive reforms.
The conflict rapidly intensified into a savage and bloody war, drawing support from foreign backers for both factions. It was characterized by fierce battles, atrocities, and devastating aerial bombardments. One particularly notorious event was the bombing of the Basque town of Guernica by German and Italian planes, claiming the lives of hundreds of civilians and serving as the inspiration for Pablo Picasso‘s renowned painting Guernica.
General Franco declared victory, and on April 1, 1939, he established himself as the head of the Spanish state. Inaugurating a nearly 40-year dictatorship. The Franco regime, known as Francoist Spain, lasted until Franco died in 1975, when Spain transitioned to a constitutional monarchy and began its journey towards democracy. But the scars of the Spanish Civil War and Franco’s dictatorship continue to resonate today, and we can see the visible scars of this war right before our eyes.
The Bombing of Sant Felip Neri
During Franco’s rule, widespread propaganda falsely attributed the church’s damage to anarchist firing squads executing priests in the yard. However, a glance at the walls reveals the holes are too substantial for mere bullets. The truth is that on January 30th, 1938, Franco’s air force dropped a bomb on the city, likely at the very spot you stand. Many sought refuge in places like this church during the war, including a group of children tragically killed when the bomb struck, claiming 30 young lives. Rescuers rushed to save those trapped inside, but another bomb detonated, killing twelve more. A bronze plaque in the square memorializes the victims, evoking a chilling reminder of the dark history etched into these walls.
Gothic Quarter
Follow Carrer de Montjuïc del Bisbe as it winds its way into the heart of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, also known as Barri Gòtic in Catalan. This historic neighborhood, Barcelona’s oldest, is a maze of narrow, twisting streets, hiding Roman ruins dating back over 2,000 years to the Roman settlement of “Barcino.” Despite its Roman origins, the neighbourhood is famous for its Gothic architecture, boasting numerous stunning medieval buildings, churches, and cathedrals that adorn the area’s cobblestone streets today.
El Pont Del Bisbe
One of the most photographed attractions in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter is the stone bridge crossing Carrer del Bisbe. However, this bridge holds a wealth of stories and legends! Despite its Gothic aesthetics, it was actually constructed in 1928 as part of an urban renewal initiative to link the buildings on Carrer del Bisbe Irurita. As you walk beneath the bridge, pause to look at its underside. Concealed, there is a carving depicting a skull impaled by a dagger. Well, at least some believe it’s just a carving…
Others attest that this is a real human skull. The legend says that if the dagger is ever removed from the centre of the head, the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona will collapse. Other rumours state that architect Rubió I Bellver put the skull there to express his anger towards the city planners when they rejected his initial designs. One of the lighter bits of folklore that goes along with this bridge is that if you pass under the bridge and face the skull if you make a wish, it will be fulfilled! Try it for yourself; it can’t hurt to try!
Gargoyles of the Cathedral of Barcelona
Walking towards the enormous Cathedral of Barcelona, we stroll down Calle de Bisbe and quickly stop at the Plaça de Garriga I Bachs. Standing in this small square, look at the walls of the Cathedral on the east side of the court. Take particular interest in the gargoyles carved above the windows along the walls. While gargoyles are a common sight in churches, these particular gargoyles are the subject of ancient legend.
Legend has it that during the annual Corpus Christi celebration in the Middle Ages, groups of witches gathered in the streets surrounding Barcelona Cathedral, shouting and spitting at the processioners. They did this year after year until one day, they were miraculously turned to stone, transformed into petrified monstrous figures. Serving the church for eternity as punishment for their wicked behaviour. When passing by, if it happens to be raining, make sure to glance upward and check if the gargoyles are still unleashing their torrents upon unsuspecting pedestrians.
Cathedral of Barcelona
Head into the Placita de la Seu, where you have a majestic view of the incredible Cathedral of Barcelona spread out before your eyes. Its gothic spires silhouetted in the moonlight. The Cathedral of Barcelona, officially known as the Catedral de la Santa Creu I Santa Eulàlia, is named after the Christian martyr Saint Eulalia, whom we discussed before.
Carrer dels Comtes
Make your way around the north side of the Cathedral, down the Carrer dels Comtes. Stop along the Carrer dels Comtes just before you get to the entrance of the Frederic Marés Museum. On the left side of the alley, emblazed on the wall above the first floor, is an old insignia of the Spanish Inquisition. The insignia features a cross in the center with a sword on the right and an olive branch (a symbol of “justice”) on the left. This mark would have been announced to all those passing by the Tribunal of the Holy Office of the Inquisition, and the cries of the prisoners they held captive within would have echoed throughout the narrow alley. Listen closely to see if you can’t still hear their ghostly echoes today.
The Spanish Inquisition
The Spanish Inquisition was one of the darkest chapters in Spain’s history. The Inquisition was a tribunal established by the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon, in the late 15th century to enforce religious orthodoxy and combat heresy, mainly targeted at Jews, Muslims, and later Protestants. People accused of heresy, blasphemy, or witchcraft were also subjected to interrogations, torture, and public trials.
Before the Inquisition’s arrival, Barcelona was a multicultural and diverse city with a significant Jewish population. However, with the establishment of the Inquisition, many Jews were forced to convert to Christianity or face persecution and expulsion. While the Inquisition’s influence waned over time, its legacy persisted. Fear and suspicion remained deeply ingrained in the city’s psyche, affecting social dynamics and religious practices for years.
Plaça del Rei
Continue southeast onto Baixada de Santa Clara. It is here you enter the grand courtyard of the Plaça del Rei. The name Plaça del Rei (Place of Kings) comes from its historical role as the residence of the Counts of Barcelona and later the Kings of Aragon. While the exterior is doubtlessly impressive, it hides within it a dark secret. During the Inquisition, the inquisitors sought the destruction of all things Jewish, including even their cemeteries. Look closely, as the stones from the facade are made of old tombstones stolen from Jewish cemeteries in Montjuic.
Due to its proximity to the prisons, this square also hosted many a public execution and the infamous auto-da-fé. Auto-da-fé was a public tribunal and the final step in the Inquisition process. It consisted of a Catholic Mass, followed by a procession in which the convicted individuals, wearing tunics and pointed hats adorned with symbolic drawings representing their guilt, had their sentences publicly read aloud in the square.
Casa del Botxí
On the square’s northwest corner, a building with an arched wooden door and two small Juliette balconies stands. This was the Casa del botxí, or the Executioner’s Home. From this chilling vantage point, the executioner could have observed his victim being led up the scaffolding before he stepped out to perform his duty. The building, a stark reminder of the square’s grim past, is a testament to the horrors that unfolded here. So much pain and suffering would have been taken out on innocents in this place, and many say that you can still hear whispers and footsteps and even perhaps a shadowy figure darting off into the darkness.
This stop brings us to the end of our tour. Whether you felt a chill as you wandered through the Gothic Quarter or sensed the lingering presence of the past at an abandoned building, I hope this tour enriched your understanding of Barcelona, blending its celebrated culture with its mysterious, lesser-known narratives. As you make your way home, remember to tread softly—you might be walking alongside centuries-old secrets waiting to be rediscovered.
Happy haunting Adventurers!
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