Before heading to Bangkok’s Grand Palace, I did a little bit of research in preparation for my departure. I was immediately shocked to read so many negative reviews from visitors online. I couldn’t understand how someplace which looked so beautiful could receive such negative comments. But, with further reading, I found that most of the reviews had nothing to do with the place itself but more about their experience while there.
On the other hand, I had such a fantastic time exploring the bejewelled buildings and painted hallways rich with Thai history and culture. The Grand Palace is one of Bangkok’s busiest places and where all the tourists flock throughout the year. But this is not without good reason! While some might be put off by the tourists, I implore you to not let them impede your visit to the palace and instead accept them as a part of the landscape. Read this post in full to find out how to make the most of your time and experience visiting Bangkok’s Grand Palace.
My Experience
I had the most wonderful time touring this grand complex, and it would be a shame to miss out on seeing this place for yourself. After all, the entire palace grounds span over 2.35 million square feet, so there are lots to explore for yourself and places to get away from the crowds. Plus, there are many methods to ensure you don’t have a negative experience and can explore the palace at your own pace.
- History
- How to Get to the Grand Palace
- Hours & Tickets
- When to Arrive & How Long To Stay
- Dress Code
- What Not to Wear:
- What to Bring
- How to Avoid Scams
- Guides
- Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Grand Palace
- Wat Phra Kaew
- Belfry
- Temple of the Emerald Buddha
- Twelve Salas
- Lotus Flowers
- Giant Yakshas
- Phra Atsada Maha Chedis
- Phra Suvarnachedi or Golden Chedi
- Prasat Phra Dhepbiorn
- Kinnaree
- Phra Borom Ratcha Sanyalak
- Phra Mondop
- Phra Sri Ratana
- Angkor Wat miniature
- Phra Viharn Yod
- Tantima birds
- Hor Phra Nak
- Hor Phra Monthian Dharma
- Yiharnyod Gate
- Phra Thinang Chakri Maha Prasat or Middle Court
- Phra Maha Monthien
- Amarin Winitchai Throne Hall
- Phra Thinang Boromphiman
- Phra Thinang Aphorn Phimok Prasat
- Dusit Maha Prasat Hall
- Mount Meru Garudas
- Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles
History
Bangkok’s Grand Palace was first built in 1782. King Phutthayotfa Chulalok (Rama I) decided he wanted to move Thonburi’s capital city to Bangkok. Therefore, he needed a magnificent residence to dwell inside once in Bangkok. The first buildings built on the site were made using bricks recovered from Ayutthaya‘s ruins. Ayutthaya was the ancient capital of Siam, but it was sacked during the war with the Burmese in 1767. Since then, the site had fallen to ruins. The King decided to take apart the old buildings to reuse the brickwork for this new Palace. I suppose he was trying to be an early adopter to recycling. Still, inadvertently he ended up destroying much of Ayutthaya’s rich history.
Construction
Workmen used the connecting Chao Phraya River to ferry the bricks down from the ancient site. The new Grand Palace was even designed using the same floor plan and layout of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. If you can visit both places, it’s so interesting to see how they mimic each other. Although Ayutthaya has been left crumbling in its natural environment, compared to the Grand Palace’s glittering modern flourishes, the similarities between the two’s basic layouts can still be seen.
Over the years, the vast compound expanded, and more buildings were constructed. Because there were so many different factions that used the grounds, they required a variety of structures. The Palace played host to the Kings of Siam, the royal family and today, even the government has their offices within these walls.
Layout
There are dozens of colourful pavilions throughout the palace, blooming gardens, lush courtyards, and glittering religious temples. Take note of the changing architectural and artistic styles employed throughout its 200 years of construction. This myriad of art styles makes visiting the palace a veritable museum of historical Thai architecture. With each successive king being personally involved in adding more buildings to help increase the glorify of the dynasty.
The Palace was used as a royal residence up until 1925. After this, the Royal family decided it was more comfortable to live outside the busy capital. In 1932, the monarchy was abolished, and the palace was left mostly abandoned. But early on in Bangkok’s bid to gain more tourism, the Grand Palace was restored to its original glory so that visitors could experience a slice of Thailand’s royal history.
How to Get to the Grand Palace
The Palace is located in the heart of Bangkok, just beside the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Unless you’re within walking distance, the best way to access the Grand Palace is by avoiding the roads altogether and getting on a river taxi. Approaching the palace from the water provides not only a more enjoyable experience but a spectacular view upon your approach.
Take the train (or walk if you’re close enough) to Sapan Taksin station. From here, you can walk down the stairs of the metro to the Sathorn pier. Tickets for the river taxi cost 15 baht ($0.50 USD). The boat trip from Sathorn pier will take about 20 minutes to the Grand Palace.
Get off at the Tha Chang (Elephant) pier and follow the clearly marked signs (both in Thai and English) to the Grand Palace. The palace complex is so huge its easy to know which stop to get off at even if the announcements aren’t in English.
Hours & Tickets
The Grand Palace is open seven days a week from 8:30 am until 4:30 pm. Tickets to the Grand Palace cost 500 baht ($15 USD). If you’d rather not worry about buying tickets at the gate on the day you arrive you can buy tickets in advance online.
When to Arrive & How Long To Stay
Although the palace is open throughout the day, try your best to arrive right at 8:30 am! Yes, I know this is early, but there are so many benefits to arriving early. You’ll experience the palace before the hoards of bus tours arrive. You’ll also avoid the intense heat, which is hottest in the afternoon.
I would recommend at least two hours inside the complex. If you plan to visit all the museums, you might want to budget a little more time. But if you are interested in solely touring the grounds, two hours will allow you enough time to take things at a leisurely pace with time for a few short breaks.
Dress Code
To get inside the palace, you must adhere to the strict dress code. Many of the buildings inside are religious temples and require this dress code to be followed. While dress codes might not always be strictly enforced in other places around Thailand, the Grand Palace is a state-run property and therefore they are very serious about ensuring the dress codes are respected.
What Not to Wear:
- Short pants (both men and women must have pants that cover the legs above the knee)
- Tight-fitting clothes
- Revealing clothes or clothes that are transparent
- Sleeveless shirts or anything that shows your shoulders
- Shirts with offensive imagery or text (people have been turned away for wearing death metal t-shirts so be careful about that)
- Flip flops
- Ripped jeans which show off your knees
What to Bring
- Make sure you wear a hat and have lots of sunscreen as even by 11 am it gets super hot.
- Wear shoes that are easy to take on and off as you will be going in and out of temples where shoes are not allowed inside.
- I would always recommend bringing an extra sarong or covering just in case there is something wrong with your outfit. These sarongs are great to have one hand to cover up. You can also buy a sarong or borrow one for 200 baht just outside the palace gates. Although some temples allow you to borrow them for free, the Grand Palace just sees too many tourists here to provide that option.
How to Avoid Scams
If you take a taxi or tuk-tuk to the Grand Palace, your driver will often say the palace is closed. This is just untrue. But they will often try to convince you of this. They will then recommend you try another palace, where they receive a commission for each tourist they bring. Just ignore them or ask to be dropped off anyways so you can “see it from the outside.” I have also often just old my drivers to take me to a destination close to the attraction as this will sometimes prevent the scam attempt altogether.
Admission Scam
Another popular scam is when scammers hang out at the front gate and tell tourists the main admission gate is closed or that all the tickets are sold out for the day. They will try to convince you to head to another temple instead.
Tuk-Tuks
Tuk-tuks are one of the most popular ways of getting around Thailand and are super popular with tourists due to their iconic and colourful appearance. They really are plenty of fun, but you need to be very strict with the drivers. Tuk-tuk drivers will often scam tourists when they hear they are looking for a ride to the Grand Palace. They sell you on a “multiple stop” ride to the palace at a super low price. All these stops are at stores where the drivers receive commission or fuel vouchers for bringing you there. What could have been a short journey turns into a long and frustrating one. Offer upfront to pay more to go direct or ask for “no stops” (they are usually just as happy to just take the extra money). If you don’t feel comfortable haggling with drivers, take my previous advice and get the water taxi.
Guides
Many guides hang out outside the temple, saying you need to purchase their services to get inside. Nope, once more, this is untrue. There are many great guides here who will provide you with a fantastic private tour experience, but they are required. To get one who is officially licensed to give tours, look for an official lanyard with the city’s seal on it.
Clothing Scams
Many people selling sarongs outside the palace will comment on your clothes and claim you won’t get it. If you’ve followed the guides above, don’t believe what they say. If indeed something you’re wearing is offensive or not allowed, wait for the officials at the entrance to turn you away. Then you can go back and purchase a sarong or cover-up but don’t buy one straight away.
Bags and Pickpockets
Any large tourist attraction in Thailand is a popular spot for pickpockets. Keep your bags locked ups (I put a mini lock around my knapsack zippers) or wear the bag in front. Keep your money deep inside your bag and never wear flashy jewellery or designer clothing – this makes you more of a target. Even when you come inside, there are often pickpockets who will pay for the admission to get access to unsuspecting tourists. So just keep aware, and you’ll be fine.
Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Grand Palace
The map below will help guide you throughout the palace as detailed in the guided tour below.
Defensive walls
Walking up to the Grand Palace, the first thing you’ll be faced with are the huge white walls topped with those iconic orange and green roofs. These defensive walls were one of the first things they built for the complex to ensure the royal family’s protection. They were built in 1782 during the reign of King Rama I. In total, the walls surrounding the castle measure 6,270 ft or 1,910 meters. Surrounding the 12 gates around the palace are several guard towers used for extra protection against invaders.
Even if someone got inside, they would be met with another 22 gates and a labyrinth of inner walls. Most of the inner walls have been demolished for tourists’ access around the interior.
Phimanchaisri Gate
Enter the palace from the Phimanchaisri Gates. After passing through the entrance, turn left to head towards the Outer Palace. The Outer Palace is where you’ll find most of the holy sites in the palace.
Cheewok Komaraphat
Walking into the Wat Phra Kaew, you’ll pass through the Hermit Gate. Beneath this gate you’ll find a black statue called the “Cheewok Komaraphat” or the Hermit. People come here from all over the country to pray for their sick relatives and leaves offerings of lotus flowers and incense to pray for their own good health. The Hermit’s name was Cheewok Komaraphat, and he was the doctor for Lord Buddha. In front of the lounging man, is a large stone sculpture of an ancient mortar and pestle. This tool is one of the oldest methods of grinding herbs, which were the foundation of Thai medicine.
Wat Phra Kaew
The Wat Phra Kaew is the name for the complex which houses the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The temple complex comprises various buildings, each has their own specific religious purposes and unique Thai architectural style. The different buildings’ design reflects the traditional principles that must be adhered to for each building-specific use. There are so many tiny details hidden away in the architecture of this space. Although I’ve tried to identify as many little treasures as possible, there is so much more to discover for yourself!
Belfry
Walk around the south side of the Ubosot or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. On the south side of the complex, you’ll find the belfry tower. This tower was built for King Rama IV in the 1800s. The entire tower is covered in intricately painted porcelain mosaics. The green walls of the tower frame the stepped l upper levels, which bloom into a series of multicoloured flowers. The bell in the tower is only rung during special occasions, such as when a new king is crowned.
Temple of the Emerald Buddha
Temple of the Emerald Buddha is thought to be the most important Buddhist temple in Thailand. The temple is over 200 years old and designed in the Rattanakosin (old-Bangkok) style. This building would become the blueprint upon which other the temple, built in Bangkok around this period was based upon.
The King wanted to ensure his new home had a majestic place for his personal worship. But not just any temple would do. He wanted this new temple to feel heavenly. The roof of the building is covered in dark blue coloured tiles, which almost mimic the sky’s hue. Looking at this building, you might notice how it has multiple roof tiers. This is purely ornamental but represented the structure’s importance: the more tiers, the more influential the building.
One the pediments at either end of the roof, you can find the image of the Hindu god Narayana (or Vishnu) and the Garuda (a mythical half-man and bird). The Garuda is a traditional symbol of kingship and has been used as the emblem of Thai kings since ancient times.
Lamyongs
The roof life is decorated in Lamyong finials. These lamyongs are sculpted in an undulating, serpentine fashion evoking the head of the Nāga. The Nāga is a Buddhist deity that is half-human and half-serpent. They are some of the Palace’s protectors, and their blade-like projects that protrude off the roof feel almost aggressive. Like they are warning anyone who would think of attacking this place of their dominance. The original King of the Nagas, Mucalinda, was said to have protected the Buddha from the rain before he achieved enlightenment. Images of the naga continue to be incorporated into temple designs to commemorate this faithful event.
Ubosot
The main exterior of the temple is called the Ubosot. An Ubosot is a large hall, supported by forty-eight square columns. The eastern and western ends of the building have an extended porch that projects outwards surrounded by another set of columns. These marbled columns, responsible for holding up the enormous roof, are embellished in thousands of mirrored mosaics. The top of the column blooms into the shape of a lotus flower. This is such a small detail but one which really adds to the elegance of the entire structure.
The temple is built on a multi-tier foundation. You must walk up a series of stairs to enter the temple. Look on either side of the lower base of the Ubosot at the decorated porcelain along the exterior. The entire surround is covered in a gossamer image of birds perched on orchid blossoms against the palest blue background.
Garudas
Along the base of the Ubosot, you’ll find a series of 112 minature figured. These are the golden Garudas. They each clasp in their hands the tail of the Naga serpents, which they also pin down in their clawed feet. Once more this series of fierce warriors is a defiant stand against any incoming enemies of the palace.
On the walls outside the temple, you are absolutely inundated in a sea of gold leaf and coloured glass. The image is so dazzling you can barely stare straight at it. Six doors enter into the temple, with the largest, central gateway reserved for the King. The doors are even more fabulously decorated with mother-of-pearl inlay depicting mythical beasts and surrounded by a lush leafy design.
The Emerald Buddha
Inside the temple, you’ll find the great Emerald Buddha. He sits atop an elevated altar surrounded by large gilded trimmings. The Buddha is only 26 inches tall but is overwhelmingly powerful. Buddha sits in the Virasana position, a meditative pose. The statue was carved in India in 43 BC. It was then moved to a cave in Sri Lanka where it sat for over 500 years. In 1468 it came to Chiang Mai and became one of the most important religious figures in Thailand.
Many Thai people believe that those who visit the Temple of the Emerald Buddha will be blessed. During times of plague and cholera, the Emerald Buddha would be carried through the city’s streets and into the countryside to cure the sick of these epidemics.
The Third Eye
The entire statue is made out of solid jade and not an emerald at all. The emerald reference in its name refers only to the colour of the Buddha and not the material it is made of. In the center of the Buddha, you’ll see their third eye, inlaid in gold. Buddhists regard the third eye as the “eye of consciousness.” You can achieve enlightenment through using this third eye and seeing beyond your physical sight.
The Buddha’s Costumes
The statue wears golden dressings, which change throughout the year based on the season. In the rainy season, the Buddha wears a simple monk’s robe, draped over one shoulder and a crown covered in sapphires. In the summer, he wears a tall crown and opulent traditional jewellery. This includes armlets, bracelets and other pieces covered in semi-precious stones. I think the summer dress is by far the most elaborate. It features a stepped, pointed crown, a breast pendant, a sash, a large necklace, armlets, bracelets, and other royal attire items.
In the winter, to keep warm, the Buddha wears a sizeable golden shawl studded with diamonds. Two of the three different outfits were actually made by King Rama I himself. When the time comes to change the clothes, the King of Thailand himself is allowed to make these changes and interact with the sacred Buddha.
The frame that surrounds the Buddha is made up of the image of the Garuda. The Garuda was Rama’s steed, who holds his mortal enemy, the Naga serpent in his legs. Surrounding the walls behind the Emerald Buddha are wonderfully detailed paintings depicting moments from the Buddha’s life. Shown in the backdrop is the birth of the Buddha in Nepal. It shows the steps the Buddha took towards enlightenment, the Worlds of Desire, Being, and Illusion. The murals serve to emphasize human values of honesty, faith, and devotion.
Twelve Salas
Walk back outside and take a break under the shade of one of the twelve salas surrounding the temple. A sala is an open-air pavilion that provides people shade around the temple. During times when there are ceremonies, these salas are often where people will stand to listen to the services outside. During the rest of the year, these little awnings are a great place to hide from the sun. They were designed to look like little minatures of the temple.
Lotus Flowers
Outside many of the elaborate temples, you’ll see people with lotus flowers, which they leave as offerings outside the temple. The lotus flower is a symbol of great importance in Thailand. Lotus flowers are edible and used in medicine to improve blood circulation and help with digestion. But, in Buddhism, the lotus flower also is symbolic of purity, faithfulness and spiritual awakening. The flower is known to grow out of the mud, and keep growing skywards, towards the light. This act represents the ideals of enlightenment and therefore strengthens its connection to the divine. Legend says that when the Buddha was born, he could walk right away and with every step he took a lotus flower grew where his sole left the ground.
Giant Yakshas
Walking out of the Emerald Buddha temple, take a look at the two massive guardians located on either side of the gateway just across from the temple; these are the Yakshas. Yakshas are nature-spirits, usually benevolent, but sometimes mischievous or malicious. They are connected with water, fertility, trees, and wilderness. These Yakshas guard the gates into the Wat Phra Kaew and protect the Emerald Buddha from evil spirits. They are fantastically carved, with almost an unbelievable amount of details covering their entire body. Their large faces are menacing, with bulging eyes and protruding fangs.
Phra Atsada Maha Chedis
In the distance, behind the guardians standing atop the outer walls, are these large Phra Atsada Maha Chedis. There are eight of the Prangs or towers which stand on the east walls of the temple. They were made during King Rama I’s reign. A prang is a monument worthy of veneration, and each one is dedicated to an individual Buddhist principle.
Buddhist Principles & Prangs
The different concepts are distinguished by different colours. The blue prangs are dedicated to the Dharma (Buddhist scriptures), the pink is assigned to the Bhikkhus (male Buddhist monks). The green symbolizes the Bhikkhunīs (female Buddhist monks). The purple is dedicated to the Pratyekabuddha (those who have attained Enlightenment but do not preach). Pale blue represents the Chakravarti (universal rulers). Red is applied to the Bodhisattvas (Buddha as he lived in his past lives). Finally, the yellow is dedicated to the Maitreya (the future lives of the Buddha).
The prangs or towers are gorgeously decorated in intricate plaster and tiles in floral motifs. The tall, narrow design is actually thought to mirror an ear of corn, with the ceramics mimicking kernels on the cob. In the center of the prangs are four sets of golden doorways supported by a band of yaksha or giants around the base.
Phra Suvarnachedi or Golden Chedi
The Than Phaithi is a raised terrace where you’ll find the complex buildings featuring the Prasat Phra Thep Bidon, the Phra Mondop and the Phra Si Rattana Chedi. Flanking either side of the Phaithi terrace are two large golden pyramids. These are the Phra Suvarnachedi or golden chedi. A chedi is a structure that contains relics or the remains of a Buddist monk and is used as a place of spiritual meditation.
The two chedis here were built by Rama I to commemorate his parents. The southern chedi for his father Thongdi and the northern for this mother, Daoreung. The pyramids are formed in nine layers and culminate in a tall golden spire. The spire’s shape contorting into a blooming lotus bud. Look carefully at the faces of the creatures holding up the chedi’s base. Each pyramid features sixteen minature yakshas (or giants) and four monkeys hidden amongst them. The monkeys have a slightly differently shaped face, so see if you can spot them!
Prasat Phra Dhepbiorn
To the north of the Emerald Buddha Temple is the Prasat Phra Dhepbiorn or the Royal Pantheon. This regal building was originally where the Emerald Buddha was to be housed. The structure was completed in 1882, but a massive fire required it to be rebuilt in the 20th century. Today the building is used as a memorial to all Kings of Thailand. The public is not allowed to enter, except for one day in April. This national holiday in Thailand honours the memory of their previous kings. The interior of the Pantheon features lifelike statues of the first nine Chakri kings and looking upon them on this holy day is said to bring any devotee good luck.
The building stands out among the rest due to the vast spire which juts out from the roof. This is called a prasat. The prasat symbolizes the centre of the universe and is usually reserved for royal residences.
Surrounding the base of this complex is a series of little gardens. Hidden amongst the trees and shrubs are stone statues. Carved amongst the flora you’ll find monkeys, cows, spiritual guardians, monks and more.
Kinnaree
Walk up the marble staircase to get a closer look at the walls of the pantheon. Atop the marble staircase, you’ll find a series of golden Kinnaree guarding the building on the final tier. The Kinnaree are celestial musicians, who are part female, part horse and part bird. These beloved creatures are thought to watch over the well-being of humans in times of trouble or danger.
Exterior Design
The walls of the pantheon are decorated in luxurious blue tiles in a floral motif. Set in amongst the sea of blue tiles are golden doorways, each one topped with a royal crown. These entrances are to be used only by the royal family or the king himself.
Phra Borom Ratcha Sanyalak
As you make your way around the Prasat Phra Dhepbiorn upper terrace, you’ll find various golden emblems on marble pedestals framed inside gilt butsabok thrones. These are the royal insignias or Phra Borom Ratcha Sanyalak. There are nine of them in total. Each one was designed to replicate one of the King’s personal seals. The various seals are as follows; Rama I (the crown without ear ornaments), Rama II (the Garuda) and Rama III (a triple-doored vimana), Rama IV (a royal crown), Rama V (the Phra Kiao or coronet), Rama VI (a thunderbolt or vajra), Rama VII (three arrows), Rama VIII (a Bodhisattva) and Rama IX (the Octagonal Throne and chakra). See if you can spot them all!
At the base of these golden pavillions are a set of bronze statues of massive elephants. In Thailand, white elephants are considered sacred and are a symbol of royal power. Any white elephant which was discovered in the wild would be presented to the king. This gesture was just ceremonial, though, as the elephant was not taken into captivity. Other elephants were used by the Kings as their ceremonial form of transport, and they served as trusted companions. Each one of these sculptures represents one of the royal elephants of the kings. Be sure to circle these elephants three times and rub their heads to get some good luck!
Phra Mondop
My favourite building in this area is the Phra Mondop. Phra Mondop translates into the “library of palm-leaf scriptures.” This building is not open to the public as these scriptures are thought to be too precious for mortal eyes. The green, red and white glass mosaics that cover the entire building make it one of the most exciting structures in the outer court. The mosaics covering the exterior form thepphanom motifs. Thepphanom is mythical creatures and the name for the symmetrically arranged diamond patterns you find on the facade of many Thai temples.
The small set of stairs which lead into the library are guarded by two golden statues of Naga, Snake Guardian. Their exterior also inlaid with green and red tiles to match the library’s facade.
Phra Sri Ratana
Behind the Phra Mondop is a sizeable bell-shaped structure called the Phra Sri Ratana. The entire structure is covered in solid gold leaf! The bell-shaped design was influenced by Ayutthaya’s stupas, which actually took their inspiration from similar religious buildings in Sri Lanka. In Thailand, a stupa is a mound-like or hemispherical structure containing relics of Buddhist monks or nuns. Around the stupa is what is called a pradakhshina path. Buddhists walk around the stupa performing acts of prayer as they go.
In the center of the stupa is a very narrow doorway that leads inside. Although it is not open to the public, the interior is said to contain a piece of the Buddha’s sternum, which is what makes this building so important for practicing Buddhists.
Angkor Wat miniature
To the north of the Phra Sri Ratana is a “minature” (although it’s really quite a large) model of Angkor Wat. During the war of 1860, King Mongkut ordered his generals to lead 2,000 men to dismantle Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but they were defeated. To quell his sadness over the defeat, the king had this miniature built to always “own” his personal version of Angkor Wat.
Phra Viharn Yod
The northernmost building in this outer complex is Phra Viharn Yod or Vihara. The building is used as a chapel for Buddhist monks. Instead of being covered in mosaics, this building is covered in white concrete and decorated in porcelain ceramics. The spire on top of the building resembles the shape of the Thai crown. The ogee arches cut out along the building’s exterior are topped with the royal cypher of Rama V under a golden crown.
The roof is so richly decorated, and the carvings so fine that they truly look like real flowers set abloom. The colours are so vibrant even after so many years exposed to the elements. They genuinely look like they could simply be plucked from the walls.
Tantima birds
Standing guard outside the Phra Viharn Yod are statues of Tantima Birds. These bronze carvings are relatives of the Garuda, birds with a human torso and Garuda head. They guard the entrances on the west and east sides of the building.
Hor Phra Nak
The Hor Phra Naga is a funerary mausoleum used to preserve the ashes of deceased princes and princesses. It was previously used to house the sacred Phra Nak Buddha image from Ayutthaya. The incredible gold details around the windows in this precious building are truly spectacular.
Hor Phra Monthian Dharma
To the right of the Phra Viharn Yod is the Hor Phra Monthian Dharma or auxiliary library. The doors of the library are inlaid with mother of pearl. Although you can’t see it, inside the library is a large mother of pearl cabinet, which these doors are said to match.
On the exterior pediment, look close at the golden carvings. Many praying Naga guardians whose tails swirl in the background create a mesmerizing pattern. In the center is the largest of the Nagas, perhaps the King Naga, who stands in the same prayer pose as the rest, eyeing the visitors below.
Yiharnyod Gate
Towards the back of the complex, you’ll find the Yiharnyod Gate. Walk into this cloister, which encircles the complex. Painted on the walls of this building are 178 mural. Each panel depicts a part of the story of the Ramakien. The Ramayana was an Indian epic tale that the Thai people have adopted and given their own interpretation.
The story surrounds a great battle between the King of the Demons, Tosakanth and the human King Rama. Tosakanth captured King Rama’s wife and held her captive in the hopes she would fall in love with the demon. King Rama goes to save her but is met with Tosakanth’s army of demons. Rama gathers with him an army of great monkey warriors who help him defeat the evil Tosakanth. These monkey guardians shaped the iconic image of the Yakshas seen around the temple.
Phra Thinang Chakri Maha Prasat or Middle Court
Head back out through the same Hermit Gate and back through the Phimanchaisri Gate. This time, head south into the Phra Thinang Chakri complex of buildings. This part of the palace is called the ‘Middle Court.’ The Phra Thinang Chakri was initially the grand royal residences of King Rama V. Phra Thinang Chakri means ‘the seat of the Chakris.’’ The Chakri was the ruling dynasty when the building was constructed. The royal Throne Hall forms the largest part of the building, flanked on either side by the Phrom Sopha Gates. Today, the structures are used primarily for governmental receptions and royal banquets.
Architecture
The residence was built in 1877, and during this time, the European architectural influences were prevalent in Thailand. The building was designed by British architect John Clinch. He blended traditional Thai architectural elements with European neo-renaissance styles.
At first, the king, obsessed with European architecture after a visit to Singapore, wanted a sizeable European glass dome on top of the residence. But his Chief Minister implored him to keep the dominant part of the building in Thai style and to not completely bend to the white-washing of their countries Grand Palace. Thankfully, his advice stuck, and the grandeur of the Thai-style green and orange tiled roof and gilded spires are one of the most impactful parts of the building. Despite the efforts taken to balance the European and Thai influences, many Thai use the nickname ‘a westerner with a Thai hat’ for the building.
The building is made up of three distinct wings connected by long corridors. In addition to the Throne Room, the Phra Thinang Chakri also contains the Royal Weapons Museum (only open on weekdays).
Gardens
In front of the Phra Thinang Chakri are a series of beautifully manicured gardens featuring some local Thai flora. The gardens are named Suan Sai or ‘Left Garden’, and the twin of Suan Khwa or the right garden. The changing of the guards occurs at the front of the courtyard, near the gardens, every two hours.
Phra Maha Monthien
To the east of the Throne hall, you’ll find the Phra Maha Monthien grouping of buildings. This seven-building structure, enclosed by a low set of walls, contains the original residential and sleeping abode of kings before the more modern Phra Thinang Chakri was built. The Phra Maha Monthien was built in 1785 and included the public reception hall, ceremonial hall and residential hall. All the royal coronation would have been held here before 1877. The meaning of the name Maha Monthien means ‘Great Royal Residence’.
Dusita Phirom Hall
On the corner of the Phra Maha Monthien complex, you’ll find the Dusita Phirom Hall. It is notable for it’s blue, orange and red roof tiles, compared to the green roof which most of the rest of the complex employs. The Hall was initially open to the elements but since has been enclosed by a curtain of intricately patterned wall masonry. This was where the King would change into his royal regalia before going outside the palace. Here, he would be greeted by his royal court and would mount his palanquin or ceremonial elephant. You can see the white marble raised dais where the king would be able to more easily climb unto the elephant.
Thevaphibal Gate
The main entrance to the Maha Monthien is by the Thevaphibal Gate. This gate is covered in Chinese ceramics in a rainbow of colours and topped with great Thai-style spire.
On either side of the gate are Chinese-style statues, which include mythical warriors and lions.
Amarin Winitchai Throne Hall
The Amarindra Winitchai Hall is the central part of the Phra Maha Mountain Group. This was the audience hall where the King met his officers of state and foreign Ambassadors. In the centre of the room stands the great golden throne. The thone is covered in precious stones and colourful enamel decorations. You can also see a series of deva and garuda figures who act as the throne’s protectors. On the ceiling of the throne room are a painted series of glass mosaic stars. Like the king is forever sitting under the watchful eye of celestial creatures.
Nine-Tiered Throne
The throne is topped by the massive Nine-Tiered umbrella. Each of the tiers represents the King’s power and prestige. The first four tiers represent the four cardinal directions, and the following tiers the sub cardinal directions. The final row signifies the direction descending down to the earth. All of these culminate in the symbolism of the King’s absolute control of the earth from all directions.
Phra Thinang Boromphiman
Further along, this little road to the east is the Phra Thinang Boromphiman. This two-storey Neo-Renaissance pale stone building really stands out amongst the rest of the brightly coloured Thai style architecture. It was designed by a German architect in 1903. It was built as the home for the crown prince during the reign of King Rama V. Today, it is used as the official guest house for visiting Heads of State and their entourages.
Inside are fresco painted ceilings feature the four Indian gods who protect the universe Indra, Yama, Varuna, and Agni. These serve as perhaps as a warning to any guests who might be thinking of doing any wrong to the royals while staying under their roof.
Middle Court Gates
One of the seemingly unimportant bits of design I love in this complex is the gates that separate each building in the middle court complex. They are topped with these phenomenally detailed ceramic designs, making them look like blooming flowers exploding out of the ground!
Phra Thinang Aphorn Phimok Prasat
Walk back to the royal residence, and down to the Phra Thinang Aphorn Phimok Prasat. The first thing you’ll see here is a small pavilion mounted on a high terrace. Just as the older royal residence had a spot where the king could change and greet his royal elephant, the new house had a similar design. This mounting station was much higher off the ground, making it easier for the king to get on and off his elephant.
Architecture
The building of the Phra Thinang Aphorn Phimok Prasat is considered the epitome of Thai architectural elegance. A copy of this building was even used at the Worlds Fair in Brussels in 1958 to show off Thailand’s incredible artistry. Each of the columns holding up the pavilion’s tiered roof is covered in gold and silver glass mosaics in a flower pattern. The columns are shaped in the form of a long lotus petal. On the eastern side of the pavilion, you can see the pediment dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva standing on one foot, with his sword raised in hand left hand and his right in a blessing position.
Dusit Maha Prasat Hall
Behind the pavilion is the great Dusit Maha Prasat Hall or Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat. The original building was made from wood and burned down in 1789. King Rama I had this new structure designed for his “lying in the state.” Lying in State is a tradition in Thailand for when a King dies, his body is placed in a state building, to allow the public to pay their respects and morn him publicly. Rama wanted the building to house his dead body to have the same height and dimensions as the iconic Phra Thinang Suriyamarin in Ayudhaya, one of the world’s holiest places.
The Spire of Mount Meru
The Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat is better known as the ‘grand spired hall ‘due to the tall gilded spire which extends from the center of the building. The spire was meant to resemble the tall mountain Mount Meru, which is thought to be the mythological centre of the universe in Thai culture. There is a tremendous amount of symbolism wrapped into the design of the spire. The lowest level is made of seven tiers that represent heaven. The middle section is formed into the shape of a bell, similarly, as the stupa’s we saw before where the Buddha’s ashed have been buried. The top part is designed to look like a tapered lotus bud, which signifies escaping the mortal realm and being reborn once more.
Mount Meru Garudas
On either side of the spire are a series of garudas, which represent the heavenly realms connection to the earthly kingdom. Garudas are said to have come from the Himavanta forest surrounding Mount Meru, so this is almost their “home.”
The pediments are decorated with the figures of Narayana riding on the back of a garuda. The Narayana came from heaven down to earth to help alleviate mankind’s suffering. This action is representative of what a king should aim to do for their people. Alleviate their pain and improve their lives. The roofline ends in a sharp set of finials in the shape of a lion’s foot. The lion’s paw is said to symbolise the Buddha’s family.
Busabok Mala Throne
A large golden porch juts out from the rest of the building at the Prasat Hall’s front. Sitting on the porch is the Busabok Mala Throne. A busabok is a small open structure used in Thai culture as a throne for the monarch or for the enshrinement of Buddha images or other sacred objects. The term is derived from the Sanskrit word puṣpaka, a reference to the Hindu epic Ramayana’s flying chariot. The high base of the throne is surrounded by praying deities. During King Rama I’s reign, the throne was used when the king appeared before the public. Museum of the Emerald Buddha Temple
If you are interested in extending your stay, consider checking out the Museum of the Emerald Buddha Temple. The museum is free to enter with your general admission. The building is located inside what was initially designed as the Royal Mint, built in 1902. It wasn’t until 1982 that it was converted into a museum. Today the museum houses artifacts relating to the history of the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Very few tourists seem to know this place is here and if you’re looking for peace and quiet, this is place the escape to!
Museum Collection
Inside the exhibition, you’ll discover the bones of the royal elephants who served the former kings along with their palanquins on the ground floor. A palanquin is a class of wheelless vehicles, which take the form of open chairs or beds carried by two or more carriers, but in this case, held atop the royal elephants. On the upper levels, you can admire the fantastic costumes which adorned the Emerald Buddha over the years. There are architectural models of the Grand Palace as well, so you can see how it looked over the years. There is a series of old cannons on display along with a small armoury in the exterior courtyard, which details the military history of the Grand Palace.
Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles
If the Emerald Buddha museum doesn’t sound like it’s for you or if you want to see even more, stop in at the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. This was one of my favourite stops since I LOVE fashion. It was such a lucky opportunity to see historical attire from the royal family’s collection. Inside the museum, you can study traditional textiles, fabrics and Thai clothing. The museum was founded by Her Majesty, the Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. She wanted to create a space where the Thai identity and culture, and the beauty of Thai traditional textiles could be appreciated.
This brings us to the end of the tour! I hope this guide helped you fully appreciate and experience the grandeur of the Bangkok Grand Palace. This place truly is a wonder to explore, and while the crowds might be a little intense from time to time, just know we’re all there for the same reason, to see something incredible and bask in its magnificence.
Let me know in the comments if you’ve ever visited the Grand Palace before or what you are most looking forward to seeing upon your first visit
Happy Travel Adventurers!
3 COMMENTS
Cristina
3 years agoHi, thanks for the info. The palace should hire you to expand their brochure!
I was wondering if you knew the following:
What’s the meaning behind the green and orange of the roof tiles?
What are those golden squiggles at the end of almost every roof ridge? They look a bit like the head of a bird, but it’s not clear.
Thanks!
laura.f.whelan
3 years ago AUTHORAw, you are just the sweetest! Honestly, I’d love that job 🙂
Orange is one of the most important colours in Buddhism so you’ll that that a lot in Thailand. Bordering it in the darker green colour (also often in dark blue) allows the roof to look a little bit more dynamic and highlights the shape. Those gold squiggles are indeed related to a bird! They are called ‘chofas’ and are meant to resemble the bird guardians that live on the gables of each building. Hope this helps! Should I add this to the post?
Stacey
1 year agoThis is a really great article and I learned a lot. Do you happen to know what those dog-like creatures are that can be found all around the place? They almost look like pugs and sometimes have a ball in their mouth that you can move from side to side. Sometimes they have a chain as if they are a pet and sometimes they have what looks like a puppy or at least baby version of whatever they are.