Colonial Roma is the hipster heart of Mexico City. No doubt about it. There is a good reason why so many travellers refer to the area as the Williamsburg of Mexico City. If La Condesa is the “lungs,” then Roma Norte is Mexico City’s stomach. Roma Norte is known for having; the best bar scene, top-class restaurants, incredible street food, and picturesque cafes on every street corner. But the area is also home to some of the best-preserved colonial-era architecture. Every street is plush with greenery, ivy falling off the Juliet balconies above. Wide avenues are home to charming artisans, and the idyllic parks are where locals come to relax.
To find the best of what this neighbourhood in Mexico City has to offer follow this walking tour through the streets of Roma Norte!
Location
The neighbourhood of Roma Norte, also called Colonial Roma, is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma Norte’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time! The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sud. Each area has developed their own distinctive character. There is also a third district called La Romita. Today, we are taking a tour of Roma Norte. Roma Norte is by far the most lively and largest neighbourhood in the area.
History
Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.
Eduardo Walter Orrin
But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.
The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma Norte!
The Creation of Roma
In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.
The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!
Porfirio Era
Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!
Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”.
The Great Downfall of Roma
But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.
In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.
This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.
Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.
The Renaissance of Roma
In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. Low rents and beautiful architecture brought the hipsters who have started to transform the streets once more. Today the area is home to some of the cities trendiest cafes, incredible street art, awe-inducing pastries, curated cocktails and top-class restaurants.
Architecture
Porfirian Art Deco
There are two main identifiable architecture styles in Roma; Porfirian Art Deco and Colonial Revival Style. The iconic architecture of Roma is marked by the fact that the new residents rejected the traditional Mexcian Baroque architecture found in the historic centre. That iconic red tezontle stone was replaced with wrought iron, crucial for highlighting the Art Deco elements.
French and Italian influences were also incorporated with Gothic and Moorish designs. Today, this combination of design styles is called “Porfirian architecture,” named after President Porfirio Diaz. Traditional Mexican brick and ceramics were replaced with modern metal and glass. Houses in this style were constructed up until 1910.
Colonial Revival Style
After the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the houses and buildings took on a Neo-Colonial or Colonial Revival Style. The era after the Revolution served as the antithesis to the Porfirian. The new President Venustiano Carranza‘s government even gave out federal tax exemptions to those who built houses in the colonial-revival style. These neo-colonial houses displayed a sense of nationalism and featured plateresque elements, pinnacles and mixtilinear arches. Architects brought back traditional materials such as tezontle, cantera and Talavera tiles. As we walk along the streets, see if you can spot the various styles as we go!
Where to Stay
If you’d like to stay in Roma Norte, there are many boutique hotel options for you to explore. It might seem easy to use services like Airbnb as there are tons of low-cost options. But Airbnb has continued to cause rent inflation and rental shortages for locals. Everything we love about the area is on the verge of disappearing. Roma could easily turn into a tourist-only sector if this continues.
On the other hand, hotels create hundreds of jobs for the locals who live here. And in Roma Norte, they are some of the most beautiful hotels anywhere in the world! Many also have kitchens and family-style rooms to serve larger groups. So definitely give them a look before you go straight to Airbnb. In the end, if Airbnb is more budget-friendly for you, I totally get it. Just be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.
Stanza $
Stanza is a great budget option just to the east of Roma Norte. It is located on the edge of the urban Pushkin Park. Despite the low price, the hotel has a great vibe and is located in a safe and quiet area. For the best rooms ask for one facing the park. The rooms are a little dated but clean and well-maintained. Perfect for those on a budget!
Ignacia $$$
Ignacia Guest House is truly one of the best secrets hidden in Roma Norte. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.
Each suite is designed differently, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. They can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree in the morning. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.
La Valise $$$
La Valise feels like the epitome of Mexico City living. It is a blend of luxury, comfort, style and relaxation. A little slice of heaven on the streets of La Roma. Located inside a 1920’s French-style townhouse, there are only three suites, each located on a different floor of the building. So you really feel like you have the place to yourself! Like you’re just a neighbourhood resident. Each room is uniquely decorated with Mexican antiques and one-of-a-kind interior decor. A splurge but a well-worth splurge!
What Sights to See
Plaza Río de Janeiro
One of the best places to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry is inside the stunning Plaza Río de Janeiro. Plaza Río de Janeiro (or Rio de Janeiro Square) was originally named Plaza Roma but it was renamed in 1922. Mexico was invited to attend the Brazilian centenary celebration in 1922 and wanted to pay tribute to their brotherly city. So they decided instead of building an entirely new park, they would just rename this one for them.
The columns of cacti that line the park’s edge create these wonderful architectural elements created out of the natural environment. The park’s pathways swirl and curl around the central parkette. Creating this almost mesmerizing and yet peaceful atmosphere.
Michelangelo’s David
One of the park’s most interesting features is the replica statue of Michelangelo‘s David. It stands in the centre of the park, looking over the central fountain. One might wonder why there is an Italian statue smack dab in the centre of the park dedicated to Brazil. In truth, there is no connection between the two. Simply, the city architects of the time were on a quest to turn Mexican parks into European squares. Going so far as creating these exact replicas. We will see more and more along the rest of our tour so keep an eye out!
Edificio Rio de Janeiro
On either side of the park, you’ll find some incredible examples of old colonial and art deco mansions. Their stone and wrought iron Juliet balconies looking out towards the park are draped in their own set of greenery. The most important house surrounding the park is the Edificio Rio de Janeiro. It is found on the east side of the park. Easily identifiable by the large green awning and art deco lettering that marks its entrance. While the building is today called ‘Edificio Rio de Janeiro’ years ago, the house went by a very different name.
La Casa de las Brujas
While the lower, street-level exterior is covered in wrought iron and art deco elements, these were added in the 1930s. The original castle-inspired red-brick building was built in 1908. The house was called the La Casa de las Brujas (The Witch’s House). It was nicknamed as such due to the pointed tower located in the corner of the building. It was thought to perfectly resemble a pointed witch’s hat. But the witch symbolism doesn’t stop there! Many people thought that the windows below the “hat” resembled a human face. The (now) bricked up ovals were the yes, the lintel was the nose and the pointed balcony the mouth. To get the effect, you need to look at the house from the northwest corner. And trust me, it’s hard to miss!
Rumours began to spread that only a witch could have devised such a creation. Stories say her name was La Pachita. And she would watch people coming about their business in the park from her windows. Perhaps looking for victims or buyers of her next spell. But sadly, the truth is much more boring. The house was designed by architect Enrique Sánchez Sedeño. He was working under the Porfiriato and was influenced by European designs. He drew on elements from Gothic architecture and Viennese-style windows to create the house we see today.
Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia
On Orizaba street, you’ll find the Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia. This church sits on the corner of Puebla street. The exterior of the church is awe-inspiring, filled with rich neo-romanesque decorations. This was the first church in Colonial Roma in 1910. One of my favourite aspects of the church is the neo-Gothic rose window above the entrance. The window is surrounded by ornate stone carvings of palm leaves. The stunning Italian-made stained glass windows are also filled with organic designs of plants and flowers. As the entirety of Roma feels like a living garden, the church fits right into that blooming environment.
Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM
Kiddie corner to the church is the Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM, another iconic building from the history of Roma. It was built in 1920 and originally designed as an elegant residence for Joaquín Baranda MacGregor, a preeminent politician. The mansion was created by the same designer as the church. He chose for this house the art deco style so popular at the time. Today the house is iconic for its green wrought iron scalloped gates and bright green shutters. The building is a venue for various academic activities and book publications from the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.
If you have the chance to pop your head inside, definitely take advantage of that opportunity! The entrance features a large irregular hexagonal hall, with a central staircase leading up to a great stained glass. The stained glass features the church of San Francisco Javier in Tepotzotlan, one of the most beautiful churches in Mexico.
Fuente de Cibeles
In the center of this large roundabout along Plaza Villa de Madrid is a mammoth circular plaza featuring a dramatic fountain. The Fuente de Cibeles made a replica of the original fountain of the same name found in Madrid. The city to which the plaza is also named. The community around the plaza were primarily residents originally from Spain. They wanted to bring something to Mexico City that represented their homeland. It was designed as a symbol to link both cities in their shared brotherhood.
The Goddess Cybele
The fountain features the goddesses Cibele. She is the mistress of wild nature, sitting in her bronze chariot. Cibele is pulled by her companions, her two pet lions. They are a male and female, representing fertility. Cibele also is the godess of protection, also symbolized in the fearsome lions. She carries an oversized key in her hand, which indicates her power over earth. In the other hand, she carries a sceptre, a symbol of her power over the seasons.
Fittingly, as Cibele represents the seasons, she is surrounded in Springtime by Mexico City’s most impressive seasonal features; the Jacaranda trees. The best time of to see the Jacaranda trees is during later March and early April. This is when they are in full bloom and create a halo of purple blossoms all around the plaza. The plaza is surrounded by some very hip cafes and restaurants. It is a great place to return to while away a lazy afternoon.
Avenida Álvaro Obregón
Many people refer to Avenida Álvaro Obregón as the “main street” in Roma Norte. The best way to explore this street is to step into the pedestrian median. Walking between the two lanes of traffic. The design of the street was meant to replicate French boulevards, which also featured central medians.
Along the median, you can stop and sit on one of the many benches. Take a moment to relax under the trees or study the sculptures found along the way. The central walkway is home to bustling art and an antique market which pops up on the weekends.
Remember Michalengo’s David we saw before? Well, the sculptures along this street are also replicas of famous Italian works of art. They feature characters from Greek and Roman mythology. There are twelve sculptures in total. The fountains include copies of Mirón‘s Discobolus, Michelangelo‘s Bacchus and the Venus de Milo.
Edificio Balmori
Edificio Balmori / Balmori Building was built in 1922 and later renovated in 1991 to restore the damage from the 1985 earthquake. The building was designed to feature an eclectic combination of historical styles. The new Colonial Roma aimed to imitate European architecture. But they went about it in their own unique ways. This resulted in the amalgamations of style we see today. Study the building for long enough and you can spot; classical, art nouveau, belle epoque, and even Art Deco decorations.
Plaza Luis Cabrera
The delightful Plaza Luis Cabrera parkette is named after politician Luis Cabrera. Cabrera was known for speaking out against the government of Álvaro Obregón. He fought to protect the rights of the lower class. The square was designed to mirror Plaza Rio de Janeiro.
Beat Writers in Roma
The park sits on the edge of Orizaba and Zacatecas Street, a popular area in the 1950s for American writers. Authors like Jack Kerouac, William Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg made their pilgrimage to CDMX. Some of the writers were fleeing America for what they saw as a more romanticized, foreign land. Others (Burroughs) were literally fleeing drug possession charges. Either way, they saw Mexico City as somewhere they could indulge in their vices. In the 1950s, Roma was on the decline. These ex-pats could get away living in robust colonial mansions, drinking and eating all day for very little money.
Famously, Kerouac wrote many stories of his adventures using peyote. He and Burroughs would take it together and lie in the grass in the Plaza Luis Cabrera. Regaling each other of what they saw in their hallucinations. But Roma wasn’t all champagne and roses for these writers. William Burroughs lived just off Avenida Álvaro Obregón (where we stopped for tacos). It was here in 1951 that, after one too many drinks, Burroughs’s life would change forever. He and his wife were playing with his pistol when he accidentally shot her in the head. She died on the spot. Despite being accidental, Burroughs was convicted to a two-year suspended sentence. But the trauma of the incident spurred him on to become a better writer. And perhaps the reason he is so prolific today.
Huerto Roma Verde
Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.
The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! Their aim is to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities that are integrated into their local environments.
Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and just appreciate the artworks, you can also stop into the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics, vegan desserts and fresh coffee. There is also a small amphitheatre that frequently hosts musical performances. So be sure to poke your head around to see what you can find!
Ecoducto Río Piedad
It might sound strange to send visitors to a highway as a sight to see in Mexico City but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.
A Living Purifier
If you’ve ever travelled to New York, you’ll have heard of the high-line. A 1.45-mile-long elevated green park created on a former New York Central Railroad. Well, this is the same kind of concept here in Mexico City. This pedestrian path is surrounded on both sides by trees and aquatic plants. You’ll see people out for a run or walking their dogs. All the while meandering along atop one of the busiest highways in the city. The entire path extends from Chilpancingo metro to Monterrey Avenue with over 4,800 square meters of vegetation dotted across the path.
But the Ecoducto isn’t just a pretty pathway; it has an essential purpose. This is a recovered public space, with a system that cleans the polluted water out of the Piedad River. The water is piped in, and the living ecosystem atop the cement is fed by the water and purifies it in the process. The entire system captures 50 tons of carbon per year. And pumps out about 1% of the drainage water in Mexico City. While that might not seem like a lot, it is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, in the future, they will be able to create more of these beautiful systems that serve the environment and the community.
Mercado Medellin
Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.
The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by its red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.
The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”
The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, check out our complete guided tour if you want to know the best shops to visit! And what you NEED to buy.
Tepeji Street
If you are a fan of cinema, you should consider heading down to Tepeji street where you’ll find #22 Tepeji. This unassuming street is home to the exterior shooting location of the house featured in the award-winning film ‘Roma‘ by Alfonso Cuaron. In addition to this famous sight, if you look right across the street, you’ll see the real-life childhood home of the director. A plaque at #22 Tepeji commemorates this house as the film’s shooting location.
Roma and Mexico City in 1970
The film ‘Roma‘ is a must-watch for anyone visiting Mexico City. It follows the life of a live-in Mixteco housekeeper of a middle-class family. The Mixtecos, are the indigenous peoples of Mexico inhabiting the region known as La Mixteca. It is Cuarón’s semi-autobiographical take on life in the Colonia Roma in the 1970s. The film’s backdrop portrays the tensions over the land that is Colonia Roma. It shows student protestors fighting for the democratization of education. These freedom fighters were also asking for control of the university budget to be handed over to the students and teachers. They wanted political freedom for workers and peasants and quality education for everyone! They also fought for greater cultural diversity but sadly, their efforts resulted in the Corpus Christi Massacre of 1971. Nearly 120 protesters were killed, among them a fourteen-year-old boy. A sad but harsh reality of Mexico City’s history.
Where to Shop
Bazar El Oro
On Saturdays and Sundays, the Bazar El Oro pops up on the corner of El Oro and Colima street. Just down the road from the Fuente de Cibeles. It’s a wonderful and eclectic neighbourhood market filled with shops set up under brightly coloured tarps. Everything from traditional quesadillas to clothing, accessories, music, and coffee is on-sale here!
El Parián
Just past Jalapa Street, stop just inside El Parián, the art-nouveau arcade. This incredible colonial building features eye-catching art-nouveau-style windows. Framing the windows are incredibly detailed stoned carvings with charming characters encircling the building.
Stepping inside, you’ll be able to admire the newly renovated covered shopping arcade. Shops line either side of the passageway. The interior is drenched in light, thanks to the glass ceiling above your head. The new arcade features a fantastical tiled floor, art deco-style decorations and a wash of greenery. It makes you feel like shopping inside a botanical garden!
Librería Ático
A few doors down from El Parián, you’ll come to a small store piled high are thousands of books. Librería Ático is one of those bookstores that feels lived in, in the best way possible. There is a combination of cheap, used books and antique volumes over 100 years old. While you might not find a huge selection of English-language books here, I love perusing the vintage collections. I always search out vintage coffee table books filled with pictures. They make for great conversation pieces. And you can use them to help study your Spanish!
Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma
If you prefer shopping for newer books, you must make your way over to Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma. Cafebrería El Péndulo is a bookstore chain, found across Mexico City. But each store has its own unique personality. Standing three storeys tall when you walk inside, look up to see all the bookshelves towering over you. It almost feels like entering the M.C Escher version of a bookstore. Péndulo always carries a wide selection of English language books. Real plants are dotted around the shop, bringing life into every corner you step inside.
HAPPENING
HAPPENING Roma Norte is one of my absolute favourite stores in Roma Norte. I come here all the time to find super unique, chic and modern gifts and clothing. One of my favourite things to bring back from trips is beautiful art prints and this store has some of the best. They don’t feel touristy at all but present gorgeous views of my favourite parts of Mexico City. Their selection of hand-made ceramics is also incredible and so aesthetically beautiful. If you’re looking for a really beautiful gift to bring home that feels like it imbues the energy of Mexico City this is the place to come to get it!
Vintage Hoe
One of the issues I find when visiting Vintage Stores in Mexico City is that the most popular ones focus too heavily on American Fashion. And while I think that’s wonderful for the locals, who see that as something unique, I’m looking for more of a local focus on vintage. And luckily for me, I found that inside Vintage Hoe. Although they still carry lots of American Brands, I find the vibes here to be genuinely representative of Mexico City. Walking inside the door, the well-curated, colourful clothing racks feel like entering a boutique clothing store rather than a vintage shop. In addition to clothing, they also have an incredible collection of accessories that are the perfect addition to lift any simplistic outfit.
Roma Records
If you’re a music of vinyl head, you must check out Roma Records. You’ll recognize this place from down the street by the hundreds of music stickers plastered over the front of the store, creating this incredible patchwork collage of musical taste. The store is small and a touch overpriced, but their curation is one of the reasons buying records here feels really special. Visiting record stores in a new city is always a great way to see what is new or popular in town. When I came in, I first saw a rare Placebo vinyl, and I was immediately excited to flip through the rest of their collection. Definitely stop in here if you’re in town.
Librería La Moraleja
Hiding away inside the charming antique glass windows of Librería La Moraleja are some of the most precious books in the city. Librería La Moraleja specializes in rare printings and modern but independent publishers. This book store is a great place to come to support local writers and publishers, and they really feature some gorgeous cover art that you’ll be proud to feature on your shelf. If you don’t read much Spanish but want to support the store, they frequently have a great selection of art books, postcards and prints that you can still buy to help treasure trove stores like this stay in business!
Tienda Trama
Further east along Coahuila Street is the joyful interiors of Tienda Trama. This shop is cooperative, meaning that everything you find here is made by a series of different local craftspeople and designers. So even if a smaller producer couldn’t afford to open their own shop, they can still sell their products direct to the customers. You can find everything from embroideries, ceramics, hand-made contemporary arts, kids’ clothes, and beautiful jewelry. All locally made and giving back to the community.
I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember the travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.
Where to get the Best Coffee
Le Babüin
The best place to start the day is with a good cup of coffee. Head to the southernmost part of the neighbourhood to Le Babüin cafe. This adorable coffee shop, named after the baboon in their logo, is a perfect slice of morning cheer. The staff are so friendly, and the caffeine that drips out of the espresso machines is first class. The sign above their door translates into the quote, “Everyone should believe in something. I think I’ll have another coffee.” Love it.
Qūentin Café
The first time I went to Qūentin Café was early morning. But despite the sun barely rising above the horizon, the doorway was filled with people chatting to each other in such joyful voices; I thought a party was going on! Everyone seemed to know each other and were saying their morning greetings, dogs in tow, and it seemed like the most friendly atmosphere. But in addition to this, they have some of the best cappuccinos in the entire city!
Cardinal Casa de Café
Cardinal is one of the more popular chains in Mexico City that still feels like an independent coffee shop! Their baristas are friendly and know how to make the perfect cup of coffee. My favourite is their Cardinal cortado which mixes equal amounts of expresso and warm milk. It’s the ideal wake-me-up drink to get your day started right in the morning. This location is right on the corner of a local street, and the people-watching opportunities here are fantastic!
Forte
Forte Coffee Shop has the most modern, historical and industrial vibe, all combined together. Their coffee bar is located in the center of the room, where everyone huddles together in the morning, chatting and drinking their early sunrise brew. In addition to gorgeous coffee, they also have homebaked goods, including mouth-watering pastries and some of the best homemade sourdough bread! This place is known for its incredible music selection, and I love coming here to just sit and listen to the tunes while I write in my diary.
Cucurucho Roma
Cucurucho Roma is a newer coffee shop that opened up in the southern part of the neighbourhood. But it has quickly become one of the hippest places in town! One of the reasons that drew me into this place was the charming and imaginative illustrations plastered all over the walls! These adorable characters feel like they imbue the personalities of the owners and visitors alike. They have some unique coffee blends, like their Horchata con espresso, that are lovely options for those who don’t like pure espresso.
Farmacia Internacional
Farmacia Internacional is one of those coffee shops almost hidden inside a sunken interior that once served as an actual pharmacy. Much of the original interior remains, like the old painted brick and antique tiled floor. It’s such a cool location with great coffee, and I love that it feels like a slice of preserved architectural history.
Where to Eat
Panadería Rosetta
There is no better place to start your morning in Roma Norte than at Panadería Rosetta. Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of baked goods. So there is always something extra special to try depending on what day you come by. They offer both sweet and savoury bread and sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good is so delicious that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!
Puebla Street Food
Puebla Street is famous for being packed with street vendors. Here is my quick guide on how to sample them safely:
- Choose freshly squeezed juice over agua frescas
- Eat in the morning to ensure food hasn’t been sitting out all day.
- Always eat food that you can see is being freshly cooked.
- Eat from vendors where the chef doesn’t handle the money or wears gloves when touching it.
- Avoid uncooked vegetables and fruit that may have been washed in unfiltered water
- Choose the stands with a line – a good sign they are reputable and the food is turned over quickly.
- Sanitize your hands before eating
- Avoid salsas and crema at street food stalls. It’s hard to tell if it has been left out in the sun without refrigeration.
Orinoco
If you were hesitant to try the street tacos, the famous Orinoco Taco is the perfect place to grab lunch. This is one of the most popular taco shops in Roma Norte. Best known for their famous trompo or taco al pastor. Taco al pastor or “shepherd style” tacos are made from spit-grilled pork. The dish was created after Lebanese immigrants introduced shawarma to Mexicans. The pork is marinaded in adobada (red chile) paste and spit roasted with a large pineapple placed on top.
When it is served, it is companied by sliced onions, cilantro and the all-important roasted pineapple. Added to give it that hint of sweetness. Taco al pastor is my favourite kind of taco, and there is no visit to Mexico City without trying them. You should really try all three traditional varieties to decide which one is your favourite. Pair the meal with an agua fresca and, of course, a side of Chicharron (fried pork rinds.)
Mercado Roma
If you’d rather grab something more substantial, make a detour along Insurgentes. Walk along for about eight minutes until you reach C. Querétaro. Just a few steps from the intersection is the food paradise of the Mercado Roma. The sprawling three-story “market” is more of a food hall. There are no fruit and vegetable stands here. Instead, you’ll find upscale tapas, vegan tacos, a rooftop beer garden and boutique-style dessert stands. The aim of the market was to bring the concept of a gourmet market together with the local community. You can sit around communal tables and perhaps even make a few new friends inside.
Por Siempre Vegana
Right across the street from the market is one of the precious few vegan taquerias in the city. Por Siempre Vegana or Forever Vegan, located along Coahuila Street, prides itself on making traditional-style Mexican tacos without the meat! Being a vegan visitor in Mexico City is definitely getting more and more accessible over the years and places like this are the reason! Even if you’re a meat-eater it’s worth checking out. It’s impressive to see the techniques and ingredients they use to create these incredible dishes.
Restaurante Rosetta
Make your way back up Orizaba to Colima Street. Colima Street is home to some of the best restaurants in the area. To end your evening in Roma Norte, make reservations at Rosetta restaurant. This incredible culinary experience is located inside an old villa whose courtyard has been restored to serve a the restaurant’s dining room. The entire place is filled with plants, making you feel as though you are dining al fresco. The ambiance is outstanding, and the dishes are ever-changing to suit the season. Locally sourced produce is reflected in the ever-changing menu. I always lean towards the chef’s inventive takes on traditional Mexican cusine. Dishes like the white mole with fermented carrots and charcoal are the perfect example of this modern take on classical dishes.
Tamales Doña Emi
If you are craving a snack, hop over to Tamales Doña Emi. If you’ve never managed to be up early in the morning to catch the street tamale vendor, this is a great place to try tamales! There are dozens of different varieties here to try. They have all the traditional fillings and some more eclectic and modern variations as well. Something for everyone.
Mercado 100
On the corner of Orizaba and C. Antonio M. Anza, just down the street, is the Mercado 100. The Mercado 100 is held every Sunday. It is one of the most unique markets you’ll find anywhere in the city. What makes the Mercado 100 so special is that they aim to be an ethical marketing alternative for organic, ecological and local producers. The market has been running for the past 8 years, and highlights over 50 producers from all over Mexico.
While there is lots of local produce for sale here, you can also buy packaged products. Everything from; honey, vanilla, sauces, chocolate, spices and more. These are wonderful things to buy to bring a slice of Mexico home with you. There are also local artisans selling their wares and handmade goods. Plus the street food, especially the vegan variety, is always incredibly fresh!
El Hidalguense
If you’re in town on Friday, Saturday or Sunday do you need to check out El Hidalguense! El Hidalguense is one of the top traditional Mexican restaurants in the entire city. The restaurant’s classic, old-world interior design makes you feel like you’re stepping back in time. And the dishes are made to bring your taste buds right back there with you. The restaurant specializes in barbacoa (barbeque) lamb tacos which send anyone drooling upon entering the restaurant.
This restaurant is only open on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.
After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and a must–order from El Hidalguense. The atmosphere here is like walking into a huge family party, that has already gotten underway. Families gather to share large platters of slow-cooked meat. Even visitors like you will feel like family by the end of the meal.
Huset
If you’re looking for a place to eat under one of the most picturesque outdoor patios in the city, look no further than Huset. Huset serves up what they call “country cooking” with their unique wood-fired oven-prepared plates. Sitting outside at the communal tables, eating these elevated dishes, really feels like you’re inside a magical garden and is such a memorable place to find yourself on a warm evening.
Lalo!
If you want to go to brunch and be guaranteed a smile, then you must visit Lalo! Lalo! is another popular brunch spot located in the Roma neighbourhood. Lalo! is the nickname of the owner and acclaimed chef Eduardo Garcia. Brunch is bustling here, so be prepared to wait a while to get a table but trust me, it’s worth it.
Painted on the cafe walls are these incredible colourful, feel-good drawings by Belgian graffiti artist Blue Warrior. They say you eat with your eyes, and being surrounded by these positive and happy-inducing images; you can’t help but eat while filled with pure joy. The most popular items on the menu are their huevos con chorizo and the Huevos fritos con salsa ranchers.
Lardo
Lardo is a beautiful brunch spot in the La Condesa neighbourhood. It’s located inside the old apartment buildings built by THE Condesa that the district is named after. I love how the restaurants are almost hidden away behind the crawling plants that cover the facade of the building. This area of town is so busy on the weekend, and the ambience outside the restaurant is just intoxicating. The menu features hip Mexican-European fusion food, which is as delicious to eat as it is mesmerizing to look at.
Don’t leave without trying the Fried egg, chile con carne and avocado. The Mexican deconstructed version of avocado toast. My husband is obsessed with their selection of granola, and their baked granola served with red berries, and almond milk is a playful take on cereal. Reservations are recommended at this place since it’s one of the most popular spots in Condesa.
Comedor de los Milagros
To end your evening in Roma Sur, head up to the Comedor de los Milagros. The amazing communal party atmosphere inside is palpable. Comedor de los Milagros is a Latin American market, where you can try food from seven different Latin American countries. There are seven restaurant booths surrounding the wide-open room where guests dine on long, communal picnic benches. The food is representative of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Uruguay, Peru, Venezuela and Mexico. Peruvian ceviche, Argentinian steak, and even a slew of vegan options as well can all be found inside!
The upper balcony is covered in wall murals and living plants to give the vibe of being outside! It’s the most lively place to be at night, but on the weekend, be prepared to wait in line as it’s one of the hottest places in town. But well worth the effort to get inside!
Where to Find the Best Desserts
Helados Cometa
In my opinion, no meal (especially dinner) is complete without dessert! Head next door to Helados Cometa for some of the best ice creams in the entire city! Everything here is made from scratch. Unlike other shops in the city with an overwhelming menu, their selection is small but flawless. Ensuring every bite is made to perfection. Even their cones are handmade and have an added element of salt which wonderfully complements the sweet cream! Try the honey and pistachio, or rose and pistachio (pretty much anything with pistachio!)
Where to Get a Drink
Casa Prunes
Just south of Cafebrería El Péndulo is the Casa Prunes. The Casa Prunes is hidden away on historic Chihuahua street. Despite its rather obscure location, it is one of the best remaining examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Roma. True art-nouveau has all but disappeared. Save for this location. It is indeed a rare bird. The architects were inspired by the natural forms of the prune tree. You can see the arching branches and even bunches of prunes hanging off the stone window carvings.
Despite its artistic impact, the house was left abandoned for years. Only recently has it been renovated. You can now step inside and enjoy a drink in this chic cocktail bar.
Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón
For those who don’t want the night to end, or like me, want to poke their heads into every building, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón is my favourite bar, thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll really enjoy yourself.
Licorería Limantour
Licorería Limantour is one of the most popular bars in Mexico City. It just made it onto the World’s Best Bars list at #6! One of the reasons it has made such an impact is its menu. It combines the trendiest cocktails with tried and true recipes that stand the test of time. I sampled so many drinks with flavour combinations I never imagined, but they tasted like perfection! Licorería Limantour’s locations are suberbly decorated with elegant interiors that match the friendly vibe of the place. Reservations are recommended as this place is one of the most popular spots in the city!
Café de Nadie
I’m not going to lie; when walking by this bar, I glanced at the drinks menu and immediately walked straight based on the names of the drinks. With names like “Standing Next to Me,” “My Mistakes were made for you,” and “The Meeting Place,” I was entranced by the originality. Little did I know, this bar is known for its incredible music! The nights often feature amazing DJs spinning vintage vinyl records combined with some trendiest music in town. This is the place to come if you want to learn more about the laid-back music scene in Mexico City.
Where to Find the Best Museums
Looking to find a way to spend the rest of your afternoon? Consider a visit to one of Roma’s many museums.
MODO Museo del Objeto
My favourite museum in Roma Norte is the MODO Museo del Objeto. I love to study vintage packaging, advertising, and graphic deisgn. These items and practical objects, dating as far back as 1810, tell a rich story about the culture and communities they served. The museum started as one man’s personal collection and today contains over 30,000 items. Bruno Newman is a researcher looking into the history of design and communications. This museum is a wonderful chance for him to share his finding with the rest of us!
Casa Lamm Culture Center
Casa Lamm is now a fantastic gallery and cultural center. But when it was first built in 1911, it served as an aristocratic residence. Although the family never got around to living in it. The mansion was designed to be emblematic of the Euro-Mexican style. Encompassing as many European design elements as possible. But Casa Lamm manages to do it elegantly where all the ornaments somehow feel cohesive.
After changing hands several times, the house was transformed and saved from utter ruin in 1993. It was turned into the Casa Lamm Culture Center. The centre set out to serve and educate the community in academic and artistic endeavours. Today, students can receive their BA, Master or Doctorates in Art History, Museum Management, Art Curatorship and Creative Writing.
But the public can enter the centre to explore various public areas. There is the fantastic Liberia Pegaso bookstore. Here you can find some incredible books on the art and architecture of Mexico City. You can also explore their various galleries featuring a rotating list of contemporary artists. You can also explore their gorgeous garden filled with exemplary sculptures from famous and up-and-coming Mexican artists.
Galleria OMR
If you’re into contemporary, avant-garde art, you should make a point to visit the OMR Gallery. The OMR prides itself on representing emerging and established contemporary artists. Many of these artists are instrumental in the development of Mexico City’s contemporary art scene. The gallery is located inside an industrial-style building, perfect for featuring these contemporary works of art. The space blends together the indoors and outdoors. Allowing the artworks to pour out into the courtyard to best serve the artistic experience.
Lulu Gallery
If indie movies aren’t your thing, head over to the western edge of Roma Sur. Here you can pop your head into the fresh exhibitions at Lulu Gallery. Lulu is an independent, Mexico City-based art project space. The gallery specializes in artworks created out of interesting materials and forms. While some galleries feature work that tends to be more about the message than form, this gallery flips that concept on its head. What you’re left with are some really really cool works of art that draw you in and yet don’t ask too much of your brain. Which I always think is a great way to approach art.
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