Prague is truly one of the most spectacular places to visit, but the number of tourists who cram into the city center can be overwhelming. If you’re looking to escape the crowds for a minute and wander around one of the most picturesque and peaceful places in Prague, head up to Letna Park.
Location & Access
Letna Park is located on the Letna Hill, just above the Vlatava River’s embankments on the northern edges of the city. The best way to reach the park is on foot. From the Old Town, head along Mikulášská, over Mánes Bridge, north along Pod Bruskou to our first stop on the tour. The walk is a straightforward 20-minutes and gives you some beautiful views along the way. You can also take the tram to Chotkovy sady station on either lines 2 or 18. To check the most updated timetables, check out this website.
History
The word “leten” from which the park gets its name means “summer camp.” Ever since the middle ages, people would gather from nearby military camps to relax in the natural vineyards and gardens once located here. The land was developed in the 19th century into a recreation area for the citizens of Prague. During the Velvet Revolution, the park found itself as the meeting point for over 750,000 protestors, who rallied against the communist government.
How Long to Spend Here
Walking across the park from end to end takes about 30 minutes, but since there are so many little places to stop and explore along the way, I’d advise scheduling a few hours to explore. You’ll find yourself swept away by the natural oasis which greets you here, and feeling rushed while in such a tranquil place just feels wrong.
The Kramář’s Villa
Start your tour of the park at the western edge, near Kramář’s Villa. This is the official residence of the Prime Minister of the Czech Republic. While the building was built in 1914, it is interesting to see how the structure resembles the White House but with a distinctively Czech spin!
Hanau Pavilion
One of the main reasons to make the trek out to this park is to see the Hanau pavilion. This building on the edge of the park looks like a minature fairytale castle. The pavilion is made to resemble a neo-baroque palace complete with fantastical ironwork, tall turrets, lanterns, dormer windows and more! Letna Park was built in 1891 during Prague’s first Global General Exhibition, or World’s Fair. The Hanau pavilion was donated by the Prince of Hanau to show off the works of the Hanau’s Metalworks Company’ from Komárov. Today, the pavilion is a beautiful restaurant where people can dine inside a stunning interior. Once you are finished eating head outside and enjoy the pavillion’s views over the city of Prague.
Statues
Throughout the park, you’ll find various statues or art installations dotted around. Although the park isn’t by any means one of the most manicured and artful gardens in the city, there are still these elements of decoration, which make exploring it all the more interesting.
Lookout Point
Walk eastward, along the southern edge of the park, and you will come upon one of the most incredible views over the Vltava River and the city of Prague. The views you get from this park are truly spectacular as its located at a higher vantage point than when inside the city itself.
Prague Metronome
Rising up from out of the hillside, you’ll see a massive mountain of stones, which holds up a supersized metronome. Despite its magnified size, the metronome itself doesn’t appear large enough to require such a hefty stone base. And this is because it wasn’t the original occupier of this giant stone plinth.
In 1955, a massive monument to Joseph Stalin was erected here when the Czech Republic found itself under the Soviet Empire’s control. The statue was enormous and dominated the park’s skyline, with Stalin’s face staring down at the city below. Stalin’s imposing figure weighed 17,000 tonnes and required 235 granite blocks to support the weight. It ended up costing the city 140 million crowns! At the time of its construction, it was the largest group sculpture in Europe. The statue was destroyed in 1962 and was replaced with the Prague Metronome.
About the Metronome
The metronome is 23-meters tall and was built in 1991 to mark the 100th anniversary of the General Czechoslovak Exhibition of 1891. The metronome was constructed with a kinetic mechanism, and although it doesn’t appear to move continuously, it still does works. Below the metronome is a plaque which reads, “In time, all thing pass...’. This is meant as a reminder to the people of Prague who lived under Stalin’s puritanical rule that although the memory of that dark time may still be there, time passes and things change, hopefully for the better.
Over the years, the area behind the metronome has turned into a skateboarding park, and young people from all over the city come to skate, drink and meet up with their friends. Many parts of the stone wall have been painted with graffiti over time, although this seems in keeping with the spirit of rebellion of the park.
Cukrárna Alchymista
If you’re looking for one of the most charming places to get a bite to eat, head just outside the park over to Cukrárna Alchymista. This cafe feels like dining inside a cozy cottage in the middle of the city. The food on offer like being served a home-cooked meal by your grandma. The restaurant specializes in some decadent desserts. The best place to enjoy them is out in the backyard garden, under the lush greenery.
Letna Park Carousel
Heading back into the park, walk down to the Letná Carousel or Letenský kolotoč. This is Europe’s oldest floored-carousel, built-in 1892. But today, it remains boarded up as the mechanisms have long since fallen out of order, and it requires a significant amount of repairs to get up and running. The horses used inside the carousel were given real horse hair hides and manes, making them almost eerily lifelike! The carousel was operated by a hand crank and was initially located in Vinohrady. Although the carousel has been boarded up, the beautiful building it is housed is still stunning to look at as this renovation is the first of many in its restoration.
Letná Mansion
Steps from the carousel, you’ll find the Letná Mansion. This grand chateau is located in the area where Prague’s old church vineyards would have been discovered. In 1891 the neo-renaissance building was constructed to house a restaurant for visitors to enjoy refreshments while wandering the peaceful orchards. Even hundreds of years ago, visitors were coming here to escape the city.
Letná Beer Garden
By far, the most popular sport in the park is the vast outdoor Letná Beer Garden. The simple rows of communal tables are located under the trees right along the park’s edge, providing guests with a panoramic view of the city below. Locals of all ages, and a few knowing tourists, gather in the beer gardens throughout the year, joyfully filling the park with the sound of laughter and merry conversation.
Local Czech beer on draft will run you merely $3 USD, so you can really get a lot for a little here. There is also a small bistro nearby where you can sample traditional Czech food along with your beer!
Bruselský Pavilion
The easternmost point in the park is dominated by the modernist Bruselský Pavilion. This pavilion was designed in 1958 and made famous by its appearance at EXPO 58 in Brussels. After the exposition in Brussels, it was brought here to Letná park. The architects F. Cubr, J. Hrubý and Z. Pokorný designed the building to be modular. It could be erected and dismantled as required. The glass and steel materials used in its creation were a popular aesthetic of the time. Despite being over 70 years old, it looks like it was plucked from the future. The building ended up winning the Grand Prize for the best pavilion in 1958.
Čech Bridge
To finish the tour, let’s head to the Čech Bridge. This spectacular art nouveau bridge, built-in 1905, connects Holešovice and the Old Town. Walking down from the park, you are lead towards the most grandiose set of stairs, usually covered in graffiti. On the other side of the road are a series of angels atop two tall columns, beaconing you towards them. These sculptures were made by sculptors Klusáček, Wurzel, Popp and Amort. These designers were passionate about creating the bridge with strong aesthetics, and today it is the only Art Nouveau style bridge in the Czech Republic.
I love the view you get crossing this bridge. You have both the Old Town and Lesser Quarter spread out in front of you to your right. River cruise boats float up and down the river here, their residence sticking their heads out the window to get their first look at the city. As you continue walking, you can see Prague Castle begin to poke its head out above the trees. This is a great spot to end the tour while you stand and admire the path you just took to get here.
While you might not find this park on many top ten lists, it’s a great way to explore one of the more ubiquitous parts of the city which isn’t just there for the tourists!
Happy Travels, Adventurers
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