Seville Dos and Don’ts: Insider Tips for Your Best Trip

Seville is one of those cities you would imagine has a place on everyone’s bucket list (and if it doesn’t, it sure should!). Sunlit plazas. Orange groves spilling their scent on cobble streets. Palace tiles as if in a fevered dream. Alleyway flamenco after dark. It is also enchanted. It’s also incredibly popular, and like any destination that’s been Instagrammed, blogged, and hashtagged to death, one can succumb to the trap of doing what you think you’re supposed to do. That’s how a person ends up sweating through lines at noon at the Alcázar or spending too much money on bad sangria. Or skipping entire neighbourhoods, like Triana, just because it’s “just across the river.” So here it is: my lovingly honest list of what not to do in Seville… and what to do instead.

Don’t Go to Big-ticket Tourist Flamenco Shows

All over the city, you’ll see advertisements and flyers for “flamenco shows” that come with paella and a front-row seat. But let’s just say… they’re more tourist spectacle than authentic expression. These performances are often polished, staged, and designed to check a box, not stir the soul. Real flamenco, the kind that belongs to Seville, comes from deep emotion, not a dinner menu. You’ll find them all over the tourist center, especially near the Cathedral or along Calle Mateos Gago. Places like El Palacio Andaluz or El Patio Sevillano. And sure, the dancers are skilled, the costumes are elaborate, but the emotion feels flattened. You’re clapping on cue between bites of overcooked paella, watching from a distance instead of feeling part of it. But real flamenco isn’t meant to be comfortable. It’s not a show, it’s a release.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Trippers (@trippers.app)

Instead, Catch an Authentic Performance at La Carbonería

Instead, head to La Carbonería, tucked behind an unassuming gate in what used to be an old coal warehouse. The place is raw, atmospheric, and deeply local, no frills, no fanfare. You grab a drink at the bar, find space on a wooden bench, and wait. Then, with the first strum of the guitar, the whole room falls silent. There’s no velvet curtain, no dramatic lighting, just a singer with a voice like cracked earth and a dancer who pulls thunder from the floorboards. The crowd doesn’t need instructions; they know when to clap, when to shout, and when to let the silence carry the weight. It’s not just a performance, it’s a pulse, a memory, a feeling that lodges itself somewhere in your chest and stays there long after the last note fades. Photography is prohibited during the performances, which helps everyone stay fully present, letting the emotion hit without distraction, and allowing the experience to unfold without a screen between you and the art.

Don’t Stress about Visiting the Royal Alcázar

The Royal Alcázar is breathtaking. Moorish arches layered with centuries of history, ceilings carved like lace, tiled walls in impossible colours, and gardens that seem to hum with quiet. It’s no doubt one of Seville’s crown jewels, and for good reason. But here’s the honest part: the crowds can drain it of its magic. It’s hard to marvel at the craftsmanship when you’re being herded from courtyard to courtyard, shoulder to shoulder with tour groups, dodging selfie sticks, and glancing over someone’s shoulder just to glimpse the Patio de las Doncellas. And if you don’t book ahead? You might not even get in. Tickets often sell out days in advance, especially in spring and summer. But don’t be discouraged.

Instead, Discover hidden gems like Palacio de las Dueñas

If you’re craving that same architectural beauty but with actual space to breathe, head to Palacio de las Dueñas. Tucked away behind a discreet gate in the Macarena district, this palace isn’t just a substitute for the Alcázar, it’s a quieter, more intimate alternative that holds its own kind of magic. The architecture still stuns: delicate Mudéjar arches, sun-warmed tiles, wrought iron balconies, and frescoed ceilings. But unlike the Alcázar, there’s no crush of tour groups or roped-off detours. You can wander at your own pace, pause wherever you like, and let the stillness sink in.

Palacio de las Dueñas feels warmer, more personal. It was a private residence until fairly recently, and you can sense that someone actually lived here. It’s where poetry lingers, literally. Antonio Machado, one of Spain’s most beloved poets, was born in one of its rooms. His words echo through the shaded courtyards and tiled passageways, grounding the space in memory and emotion. Orange trees bloom in the gardens, casting flickering shadows over stone paths. Fountains trickle softly. There’s a rhythm to the place that invites you to slow down, maybe sit for a while, maybe listen to the silence.

Don’t Underestimate the Heat in Summer

So if you’re visiting in July or August, brace yourself. Seville isn’t just “hot” in summer. It’s record-breaking, pavement-melting, don’t-even-think-about-jeans kind of hot. Temperatures often climb well above 40°C (that’s over 100°F), and the heat doesn’t let up just because you’re trying to enjoy a palace or snap photos at Plaza de España. Sightseeing at midday? Not fun. Not romantic. Just sweaty and slightly surreal. Locals know this. That’s why everything slows down. Shops close. People disappear indoors. The city holds its breath till sunset.

Instead, Plan Around it

The best way to survive it? Wake up early. Seriously early. Set your alarm for sunrise and start your day before 8am if you want to do any real exploring. Most sights open by 9 or 10, and by 11am, the heat begins to take hold. You’ll want to be wrapping up anything outdoors by then.

Midday is not sightseeing time; it’s siesta time. This is when you retreat indoors. Find a shaded patio, a breezy tiled café, or a museum with good air conditioning (shoutout to the Museo de Bellas Artes). Linger over lunch in the cool, drink slowly, order something refreshing like salmorejo or a cold cerveza. Better yet, go back to your hotel or rental and nap. Yes, really. Locals aren’t lazy; they’re smart.

Carry a refillable water bottle, and refill it at the many public fountains (potable water is safe in Seville). Bring a foldable fan (you’ll thank yourself), wear linen, and skip dark clothes that cling. Wide-brimmed hats or umbrellas aren’t just stylish; they’re necessary. Don’t try to “tough it out”, you’ll end up dizzy, cranky, and missing the joy of being in Seville altogether.

Don’t: Pay full price for the Setas

Las Setas, officially known as Metropol Parasol, is one of Seville’s most unexpected landmarks. Rising out of Plaza de la Encarnación like a cluster of giant wooden mushrooms, or some kind of space-age waffle canopy, it doesn’t exactly fit in with the city’s Gothic spires and Mudéjar tiles. But maybe that’s the point. It’s bold, modern, and surprisingly beautiful in its own way, especially when the light hits it just right or when the city unfolds beneath it at golden hour.

To be honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I assumed it would be another overhyped tourist trap, cool from a distance, but not much else. But the views from the top? They’re incredible. A sweeping 360-degree panorama of the Seville skyline, from La Giralda to distant rooftops, bathed in soft Andalusian light. It was actually one of the more memorable moments of the trip.

That said, the ticket they try to sell you is around €16 and includes a mostly-empty underground museum with flashing lights and historical projections that don’t quite land. It felt like filler, bells and whistles added to justify the price tag, not to enhance the experience.

Instead, Ask for the “Mirador Only”

What most people don’t realize is there’s a cheaper ticket, just a few euros, that gets you straight to the top for the panoramic walkway and skyline view. Ask for the “mirador only” option at the ticket counter; this type of ticket is not available online, as it’s only for those in the know!

Don’t: Only Visit the Seville Cathedral

Yes, the Seville Cathedral is massive. Historic. Impressive. You walk up to it and can’t help but be struck by the sheer scale, vaulted ceilings that rise like cliffs, golden altars that shimmer in the dim light, side chapels tucked into shadowy corners. And La Giralda, the former minaret-turned-bell tower, absolutely delivers with sweeping views across Seville’s tiled rooftops.

But to be honest? The interior can feel a bit… empty. A bit too grand. Like it’s trying to overwhelm rather than move you. There’s beauty, yes, but it’s the kind that keeps you at a distance. Majestic, but not intimate. And with an entry fee of 13€ and tickets often selling out in high season, it’s worth knowing that there are other places in Seville that are just as architecturally rich, far less crowded, and completely free.

Instead, Seek out the smaller, soul-stirring chapels instead

Some of Seville’s smaller churches, like Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca or San Luis de los Franceses, actually feel more alive than the Cathedral. They may not tower over the skyline or draw the same crowds, but step inside and you’ll feel something shift. Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca is small but rich with history. Originally a synagogue, then a mosque, then a church, it’s layered with centuries of transformation, and you can feel it in the walls. The arches still hint at Islamic geometry, while the Baroque ceiling swirls with stucco vines and cherubs.

Then there’s San Luis de los Franceses, a tucked-away baroque marvel that practically explodes with gold leaf and sculptural detail. From the outside, it’s unassuming. Inside, it’s theatrical. Domes overhead seem to float, and the altars are so intricate they almost look like stage sets. But it doesn’t feel performative, it feels intense, emotional, like you’ve walked into a moment that’s been unfolding for hundreds of years. And because it’s rarely crowded, you can actually hear your own footsteps, feel your breath slow, take it all in without being rushed along.

Don’t: Eat on Avenida de la Constitución

Sure, the cathedral views are nice along the Avenida de la Constitución, the street is wide and grand, lined with outdoor terraces and framed by some of Seville’s most iconic landmarks. But sit down at one of those cafés along Avenida de la Constitución, and you’ll quickly notice the trade-off. The food is overpriced and forgettable, microwaved tortillas, rubbery croquetas, sangria made with cheap wine, and you’re mostly paying for the proximity to La Giralda, not for what’s on your plate. Worse still? You’ll likely be interrupted mid-bite by a steady stream of street hustlers and scam artists who roam from table to table.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by J.Carlos Parrilla M. (@carlosseville)

Instead, Wander into the backstreets of Alfalfa

But if you’re hungry and looking for something real, skip the tourist traps near the Cathedral and wander toward the Alfalfa neighbourhood. Tucked into narrow, buzzing streets, this area has a more lived-in energy, still central, but with an edge of grit and soul. Start with Bar Alfalfa, a tiny, always-busy corner spot beloved by locals and travellers who’ve done their homework. It’s known for creative small plates, generous wines by the glass, and a cozy atmosphere that feels more like someone’s kitchen than a restaurant. Just a few minutes away is Bar El Rincón, a no-frills spot with classic Sevillano charm, ceramic-tiled walls, cold beer, and solid, straightforward tapas that hit the spot. And for something a little more traditional but still atmospheric, try La Bodega de la Alfalfa, where locals gather over plates of salmorejo, flamenquín, and croquetas that taste like home. The beauty of this neighbourhood is that it invites you to linger, or to hop from one bar to the next, piecing together a night one tapa at a time.

Don’t: Ride in a horse-drawn carriage

The horse-drawn carriages that line up near the Cathedral and along Avenida de la Constitución might look romantic, like something out of a postcard. The horses wear little plumes, the drivers call out in multiple languages, and the glossy carriages click across the cobblestones like something out of another time. But here’s the truth: it’s not as charming as it seems. In fact, it’s one of the most touristy and ethically questionable experiences in Seville. The horses often spend long hours standing in the direct sun, especially in the brutal heat of summer. While regulations do exist, enforcement can be inconsistent, and there’s growing local concern about the welfare of the animals. Many of these horses are working full days with minimal shade, little rest, and constant exposure to noise, crowds, and traffic. It’s uncomfortable to witness once you start paying attention, and impossible to unsee afterward.

Instead, bike through María Luisa Park

Rather than putting those beautiful horses at risk, hop on a bike instead! Glide beneath the dappled shade of Parque de María Luisa, where tall palms and jacarandas sift sunlight into shifting patterns. Begin at the grand Plaza de España, all tiled bridges and gentle moat, then drift deeper into the park as the formality softens. Ivy-rimmed fountains appear around quiet corners, mosaic benches hide under arches of bougainvillea, and half-shadowed sculptures wait to be found. Peacocks strut, parakeets chatter, and every turn feels like a small discovery. The park stretches wide, full of orange trees, jacarandas, palm-lined promenades, and winding dirt paths that lead to secret fountains. You might stumble on the Fountain of the Frogs, where ceramic frogs spit water into the basin, or the Lion Fountain, tucked into a quiet courtyard framed by tiled benches and vine-covered pergolas.

Don’t Rush Through the Plaza de España

Don’t make the mistake of treating Plaza de España like just another photo op. Too many people do a quick spin around the moat, snap a selfie on the stairs, glance at a couple of tiled alcoves, and then rush off to the next “must-see.” But when you rush it, you miss what makes this place extraordinary. Yes, it’s cinematic. The symmetry is Wes Anderson-level perfect, and yes, parts of Star Wars were filmed here, but there’s so much more beneath the surface. Don’t breeze through. Don’t reduce it to content. Let it surprise you.

Instead, Slow down and Soak it in

Instead, take your time and let the Plaza unfold slowly. The tiled alcoves representing each of Spain’s provinces aren’t just decorative; they tell stories. Every one is different, illustrating historical moments, local legends, and regional maps in vivid hand-painted detail. Walk the full semicircle and you’ll start to spot artistic quirks and even bits of political history hiding in plain sight. Don’t just cross the bridges, pause on them. There are four, symbolizing the ancient kingdoms of Spain, and each one is lined with beautifully glazed ceramic balustrades worth admiring up close.

Step into the shaded arcade behind the alcoves and you’ll find a quieter side of the plaza, with cool tiled benches, patterned ceilings, and the occasional street musician whose guitar echoes softly through the arches. Most people walk straight past the central fountain, but if you stop, you’ll notice the way the water mirrors the plaza’s perfect geometry and catches the changing light. And all around, especially beneath your feet, are hidden details: ceramic plaques, patterned floor tiles, even little symbols worked into the legs of benches. On the right day, you might stumble across an impromptu flamenco guitarist playing to the open air. It’s these small, often-overlooked moments that make the Plaza de España feel less like a set piece and more like a living, breathing part of the city.

Don’t: Order Raciones or Medias

In many Spanish bar, especially in Seville, you need to be mindful of how you order, particularly when you’re aiming for a traditional tapas experience. As a tourist, it’s easy to assume that any dish served in a “tapas bar” will automatically be small and shareable. But that’s not always the case. If you’re hoping to wander from spot to spot, tasting little bites along the way, you’ll want to make sure you’re actually ordering tapas, not a ración or even a media ración. A ración is a full-sized plate, meant for proper sit-down meals or for sharing with a larger group. A media ración is a half portion, still too big if you’re just looking for a few bites. Both will fill you up quickly and rack up a bigger bill than you might expect.

Insead, Ask Specifically if they Offer Tapas Portions

Instead, to keep things light and flexible, always ask, “¿Tienen tapas?” before ordering. Not every bar offers them, and some only serve tapas at the bar, not at the tables. But asking that one question can mean the difference between a full meal and the kind of casual, hop-from-bar-to-bar experience that makes eating in Seville so memorable.

Don’t: Order sangria like a tourist

Look, sangria has its place. It’s fruity, cold, and looks great in a photo with a slice of orange hanging off the rim. But in Sevillee, locals don’t really drink it and what you’ll usually get if you order it in the city center is a premixed batch made with cheap red wine, sugary fruit juice, maybe a splash of brandy, and often something like Fanta to give it fizz. It’s overly sweet, flat, and honestly, more about the idea of Spain than the actual culture. In reality, sangria is mostly reserved for big gatherings, family barbecues, beach holidays, and festivals. It’s something people might throw together in a pitcher at home in the summer, not what they order at a bar or with tapas. It’s just not part of daily drinking culture in Andalusia the way people imagine.

Instead, Try Vino de Naranja or Manzanilla

Instead, lean into the drinks Sevillanos actually sip. Vino de naranja is a Sevillian favourite: sweet white wine infused with bitter orange peel. It’s smooth, citrusy, and served cold, like liquid sunset in a glass.
Or try a chilled glass of manzanilla, a pale, dry sherry from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, breezy and slightly salty from the sea air where it’s aged. It’s the kind of drink that quietly cuts through the heat and pairs perfectly with salty almonds or jamón.

Don’t Just Stay in the Historic Quarter

It’s tempting to stay within the ancient center. It has everything: the cathedral, the Alcázar, flamenco shows, and rooftop bars with perfect sunset views. It’s all concentrated in a few walkable blocks that feel like a living postcard. But the truth is, parts of it can feel more like a stage set than a real neighbourhood. Sure, the buildings are beautiful, but the experience can start to feel curated for tourists. You’ll see menus in six languages, souvenir shops on every corner, and horse-drawn carriages looping endlessly through the same streets.

Instead, visit Triana and explore the real soul of Seville

Instead, make the effort to cross Puente de Isabel II into Triana, where you’ll find the real local heart of Seville. This is not only a quaint neighbourhood, it’s historically rich. The cradle of flamenco legends, homes to ancient pottery- and tile-making families, and dotted with tiny bars where flamenco is not staged, it’s just a given. Wander Calle Betis for riverfront views and tapas with locals. Visit Triana Market for salt cod, olives, or a strong coffee under ceramic arches. Duck into Cerámica Santa Ana or the Centro Cerámica Triana to see where azulejos were born.

Seville is a city best experienced by knowing what to skip and what to seek out. Avoid the tourist traps, the overpriced sangria, the carriage rides, the rushed flamenco shows, and lean into the things that feel more real. Wander slowly, ask for tapas, drink what the locals drink, and give yourself time to actually feel the place. With a few smart don’ts, you open the door to a much better do.

Happy Travels, Adventurers