One afternoon, while strolling along the Avenida Mazatlan, I saw a sea of bright pink tarps and what looked like a little farmers market. When I turned the corner to get a better look, I found that it wasn’t a small market after all, but a sprawling shopping mall of everything from fruits to fabric! After a bit of research, I discovered that I had happened upon the Condesa Tianguis Market!
What’s a tianguis
A tianguis (tehYAN-gyez) comes from the old Aztec word tianquiztli, which meant the marketplaces. Markets were of the utmost importance in the Aztec culture. The Aztecs built their empire on trade, and the ritual continues to this day in Mexico.
The pink tarps which cover the entire market are actually quite important as they signify that this market is a part of a government-sanctioned program. They ensure the legitimacy of the sellers, which can trade in the tinaguis’. The government-run organization is called the “System of Markets on Wheels” (Sistema de Mercados Sobre Ruedas). It’s named as such since these same vendors have to be mobile and move their shops around the city, wherever the market is open that day.
Opening Times
The Condesa Tianguis market is only once a week, on Tuesdays, which made it even more special that I had just happened upon it. The market runs along Pachuca street from Agustín Melgar Calle south to Calle Juan Escutia. They shut this entire road down from traffic for the day, and it feels like it completely transforms the feeling of the neighbourhood. It changes from just another side street to a lively traditional shopping experience. The market opens at 10 am and closes at 5 pm.
The Condesa neighbourhood has always been one of the more upscale districts in Mexico City. Because of this higher class clientele, don’t expect to find the lowest prices here. But even when they are slightly more expensive, it’s still shockingly cheap! I do find the quality of food and produce here to be somewhat above par as well, so you definitely get more bang for your buck!
Some of the most unique things you’ll find here are sold by the older generations of indigenous women. These women grow their own fruits and vegetables on their farms outside the city. Unlike some of the other vendors who might be buying from more commercial business, they are grown by some rural farmers. The women’s smiling faces are enough to bring you right up to their stalls to take a closer look at their fantastic produce.
Produce on Sale
Unlike the supermarkets which seem to carry everything no matter the season, the fruits and vegetables available here change based on the season. The very best products to get each season is as follows:
Summer: Mangoes, Tomatoes and Tomatillos, Corn, avocados, Pitaya
Fall: Corn, Apples, Pumpkin Black sapote, Prickly pear, Passionfruit
Winter: Apples, Pumpkin, criollo avocado, Mamey, Black sapote, Jicama, Prickly pear
Spring: Mamey, Jicama, Passionfruit
Year-Round: Nopales, chillies,
Clothing and Household Goods
These markets sell more than just produce though. You’ll find anything from bras to makeup, kitchen products and more! You really never know what you going to find! It’s a one-stop-shop for locals, no need to go to the grocery store at all. I loved seeing all the different things on offer since it felt like a surprise every time you came upon a new section of the marketplace.
Flowers
The flower sellers were some of my favourite stalls. I timidly asked how much a large bouquet of sunset coloured roses was and was blown away when they asked for only 50 pesos ($3 US). Having an Airbnb, we had the space to decorate it with flowers, and so I bought it up!
When I visited earlier in the day, I was the only foreigner there! Everyone seemed very friendly, and my Spanish went a long way with impressing the locals. Later in the day, when we came back for dinner, we did see a few more foreigners. Still, overall, it really felt like a neighbourhood event with locals going about their daily business.
Walking down the aisles, you’ll be offered fresh-cut fruit samples from various sellers. While most of this time, this is to entice you to buy some whole fruit, I never found any of them to be very pushy in making me buy anything I didn’t want. It was great fun to get to try so many different fruits, some of which I’d never even heard of before. The Mamey fruit was my favourite. It was like a combination between a sweet potato and a peach.
Street Food
One of my favourite things to eat in Mexico city is elote, but here there was something a little different, which was esquite. This dish is similar to elote, but the corn is sauteed with chilli peppers instead of being roasted on the grill. The corn ends up being a little spicer and more straightforward, as it is served without the cheese and mayonnaise. But just as delicious!
Another street food staple is the tlacoyo, fried blue corn cakes stuffed with beans and topped with cheese and nopales. In the early morning, you could really taste how fresh the masa was, most likely being ground that very morning.
Tamales vendors are on either corner outside the market, but the real food can be found in under the white tents. Inside are a dozen or so little food vendors selling tacos, gorditas, flautas and more! Large communal tables are lined with salsas and hot sauce. Grab your favourite dish from any of the vendors and take a seat to see if you can strike up a conversation with your neighbours. One of my favourite things is how inviting the locals are, especially when in a neighbourhood environment. They are so proud and are always so happy to see foreigners visiting.
For dessert, there is nothing better than a cup of fresh fruit. My favourite is the mango, served with chilli and lime. Sweet, salty and spicy! All my favourites flavours!
Fresh Nuts and Candy
If fruits don’t satisfy your sweet tooth, another of my must-buy items are fresh candies and nuts. These brightly coloured products draw your eye in immediately. The gummies are some of the softest and most flavorful I’ve ever tasted! I can not recommend them more. And they each cost only about 20 pesos for a huge bag.
Stumbling upon markets like this is one of the most lovely things about Mexico City. There is always something exciting going on, and even if you’re not looking for it, wonderful places like this just seem to reveal themselves to you!
What has been your favourite moment of happenstance on your last vacation?
Happy Travels Adventurers!
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