Tasmania is one of the least visited parts of Australia but, in my opinion, is their greatest hidden gem! Tasmania, formerly called Van Diemen’s Land, is an island state of Australia located 150 miles from the mainland, separated by the relatively shallow Bass Strait. Despite being a state in Australia, Tasmania feels like a country all to itself! Its vegetation, landscape, history and even architecture all feel so unique to this tiny island. This incredible individuality makes it such a fantastic place to visit while making your way around Australia. Tasmania’s capital city is the great towm of Hobart. Over half of the residences who live in Tasmania call Hobart home, making it the first stop for many who visit the island.
One of the most beautiful aspects of Hobart is the fact that there are so few high-rise buildings that creep across the city. This building limitation was put in place due to Hobart’s proximity to the River Derwent and kunanyi/Mount Wellington. The government didn’t want to ruin these incredible vistas with views of stark steel towers. The results is the peaceful seaside village we find today. Despite being an urban centre and having all those amenities, Hobart still feels like a secret treasure.
If you’re looking for a place to spend a peaceful morning, then head over to the historic neighbourhood of Battery Point. This area is one of Hobart’s most serene and beautiful areas, and I love wandering the streets aimlessly. You’ll find the least tourists out and about in the morning, and the area takes on a more authentic neighbourhood feel. I adore watching the locals mull about doing their morning tasks. This walking tour is a wonderful introduction that will guide you to the most impressive houses, historical landmarks and beautiful lookouts.
One of the biggest draws of the town is its convict-era architecture. When settlers arrived on Hobart’s shores, they mainly used the convicts to construct the buildings that now make up the city’s bedrock. Many residents felt that the convict-built houses contained a dark history and saw them as a stain on their new capital city. But Hobart’s “old world” architecture has become one of it’s biggest tourist attractions. The Georgian style was popular in Britain in the 18th to 19th centuries, named after the four British monarchs; George I, George II, George III, and George IV—who reigned in continuous succession. Georgian homes are characterized by symmetry and proportion. Architects were influenced by classical architecture from Greece and Rome. Instead of ornamentation and creativity, Georgian architecture is all about using mathematical ratios to determine the optimal design.
If you have a car, it’s super easy to find some free street parking in Battery Point; keep a lookout for those signs. If you are coming here without a car, most of the hotels and hostels are an easy 20-minute walk from Battery Point. That’s the great thing about Hobart; pretty much everything downtown is located so close together you can easily get away with walking to all your destinations in the center city.
Battery Point was one of the first neighbourhoods established in the new colony. The very first residence to be built here was owned by Rev. Robart Knopwood and was called ‘Cottage Green.’ But don’t let the word “cottage” fool you; the property spread over 90 acres in 1805 across modern-day Battery Point. In 1824, Knopwood began to subdivide his land to other wealthy settlers.
Eventually, estates and houses were built along Hampden Road. Originally the area was meant for the working class, as many of the residences worked nearby at the docks. Whales, sailers, shipbuilders, and tradesmen made up the majority of the population. Eventually, shops, greengrocers, restaurants and pubs started to pop up to service the ever-growing population. Today, the area is one of the most highly valued in Hobart, with tiny, one-bedroom homes selling for well over one million dollars!
Start your tour of Battery Point inside the peaceful Princes Park. The name “Battery Point” was due to the fact that the first Battery was built here in 1818 as a part of Hobart’s coastal defences. Although the Battery was well stocked with guns and ammunition, the defences were never called upon to withstand an invasion. Instead, the Battery was mainly used for ceremonial salutes. The Battery was officially decommissioned in 1878 and turned into a lovely park for the residents in 1934. Princes Park is the perfect place to start the day as it is located on a lookout over the gorgeous River Derwent. Princes Park is also home to some beautiful lush trees, representative of that iconic flora and fauna that makes Tasmania so unique.
After meandering around Princes Park, take a walk along Hampden Road. This street winds up the hillside, climbing higher and higher. As you go, you’ll catch more and more views of the towering kunanyi/Mount Wellington overhead. On either side of the street, you can spot a myriad of different styles of colonial cottages. Keep an eye out for the eave-free homes. These are some of the oldest in the area and have been here since the colony’s establishment. In 1973, the Builders Labourers Federation established a “green ban” on the destruction of the historic building. This ban ensured the historic homes were preserved for future generations. The everyday Tasmanians who own these homes take great pride in keeping them prime and proper and their gardens are almost as glorious as the houses themselves.
#13 Hampden Road is otherwise dubbed “Rosebank” and was built by Andrew Inglis Clark. Clark is considered to be one of the founding fathers of Australia. Clark was born in Hobart and educated at nearby Hobart High School. Throughout his career, Clark helped support trade unions, advocated for women’s suffrage, and, of course, was the co-author of the Australian Constitution. Although his career took him all over Australia, he always came home to Rosebank. It was here in 1907 that he died inside his treasured home. The arched windows all across the outer facade would have made for splendidly bright interiors with such amazing views of the neighbourhood. The veranda that wraps around the house is supported by beautiful columns and makes for such a grande appearance.
Turn off Hampden Street to explore Runnymede Street, a small circle that surrounds the quaint Arthur Circus Park. Arthur Circus is the only circus in Australia! The houses surrounding the park are old cottages. These homes were originally constructed for the garrison officers of the Battery. An iconic architectural element to keep your eye out for around here is the “iron lace” verandas. This style of wrought iron is a feature of many buildings in the area and in colonial Australia. In 1870 Australia established its own iron factories, influenced by the Victorian ornamental iron designs they saw in magazines from England. Australians adopted this style for themselves and having an iron lace terrace was a sign of your status in Australian society.
The houses in Arthur Circus were allotments purchased by Lieutenant-Governor Arthur in 1847. Back then, they were considered crowded working-class homes, but today, these beautiful historic cottages sell for well over one million dollars – how times have changed! Most of the places consist of just two large main rooms. Many of the modernized houses have renovated additions to expand the floor print.
On the corner of Runnymede and McGregor sits an unassuming, slightly more modern building. This is the Lady Gowrie Child Centre. Lady Gowrie was the Governor-General’s wife and a strong advocate and supporter of child welfare. She wanted to provide free education and care for children of low-income families. Six schools in her name were set up in Australia in 1933. Each one set out to improve the physical and mental development of children. To ensure it was supporting the local community, children had to live within a one-mile radius of the centre to attend. The centre still stands today and continues to serve the community.
Continuing along Runnymede Street, we come to these incredible early colonial mansion at #20 Runnymede. This house is now home to the Lenna Heritage Hotel. “Lenna” is the Indigenous word the Tasmanians have for the word “House”. The old mansion was initially built in 1847 in sandstone from the local quarry. The quarry was a popular place for convict workers serving their penitence. With the influx of prisoners, the mine produced sandstone at a rapid pace!
At one point, this house was the sole occupant of this lofty waterside hill. The house was built for Alexander McGregor, a wealthy shipowner and merchant. McGregor married into another wealthy family, and he went on to own the largest shipyard and warehouse in Salamanca Place. McGregor would hold large garden parties and elegant balls inside the chandelier encrusted halls. Today, the beautiful home has been converted into hotel so you can stay inside one of these historic residences.
Head back to McGregor Street and turn down South Street. South Street is one of these tiny hidden roads that feel like it hasn’t changed at all in over a hundred years. The working-class cottages in Georgian style are nestled in one next to the other as if cuddling up for warmth. Unlike the grand sandstone mansions, these simple houses were made with unpainted or painted bricks and stucco. They have very low, corrugated iron roofs that add to their diminutive appearance. But despite their small nature, they nevertheless have so much charm. The overgrown ivy and gorgeous flower gardens have been tended here for years. Each one contains a wonderful example of local Tasmania flowers.
Turning back on Hampden Road, head over to the Battery Point Community Hall. Originally, this building served as the Congregational Sunday School built in 1850. Today, the hall serves the people of the community and acts as a venue for events and public meetings. The community of Battery Point is so strong this building is a place where they can all come together to celebrate and advocate for the protection of his historic area.
The Georgian cottage at #64 Hampden Street was once the home of Royal Scot’s bandmaster, Angus McLeod. McLeod was a part of the 21st Royal Scottish Fusiliers regiment. He loved his job so much, he named his new residence “Fusilier Cottage.” McLeod was brought to Hobart to lead the Royal Scottish Fusiliers band. Residents of Battery Point were overjoyed at his arrival. Previously there was not much in terms of musical entertainment in the area. McLeod came to love Hobart and opted to make it his permanent home, teaching the pianoforte, violin, clarinet and flute to the people of Battery Point. His house was built in 1838. Whereas sandstone was the most popular material of the day, McLeod also used bluestone in his design, giving his cottage a distinctive patchwork look.
Located in the heart of the community is the popular cafe Jackman & McRoss. Jackman & McRoss feels like a quintessential Australian cafe, but with a gourmet twist. Their most popular item is the iconic Australian staple: meat pies. But unlike the mystery meat pies you get in truck stops, these pies come in flavours like; goat & lentil, blue eye fish korma, lamb & rosemary and even scallop pie, with shellfish caught right from the Tasman sea.
If sweets are your morning preference, then they have you covered as well. You’ll be drooling over the gorgeous window displays of all their sweet creations. Always go for whatever is labelled “seasonal” as these items are extra special. You can opt to grab your food to go and eat in one of the many beautiful parks around the area or sit inside and watch the locals come in and out for their morning brew.
Make a stop down Stowell Avenue at the Stowell Gardens Apartments. Originally this large plot of land belonged to Captain John Montagu. Montagu’s uncle was Lieutenant-Governor Arthur, who granted him the land in 1831. Montagu went about building a grand, two-storey, Regency-style house complete with an extensive garden. The garden was one of the most impressive part of the house, with graperies and even a heated greenhouse.
Over the years, the estate passed hands many times. When it landed in the hands of Gamaliel Butler, he took great pride in maintaining and expanding the gardens. He even imported fruit trees from England to grow different produce on the grounds. In 1917 Stowell was purchased by Edinburgh Hospitals Limited and was transformed into a large hospital. They changed all the luxurious residential rooms into splendid operating theatre and training schools for nurses.
But one of the primary reasons they wanted to purchase this property was for those rich gardens. The nurses and staff planted a wonderful vegetable garden that helped feed both the staff and hospital residents. Eventually, the house needed too many upgrades to keep up with modern hospital facilities, and it was closed in 1945. Today, the various rooms have been divided up and used as private apartments. But the original estate’s charm and beautiful gardens remain for all the residences to enjoy.
On the corner of Stowell Ave and Hampden Road was the decadent Bahrs Chocolate Shop. Although the old candy shop has since closed and is now a proposed location of a new restaurant, the fantastic retro signage remains. The chocolate shop was very popular with families on their way to the hospital (just opposite). People would stop in here to grab a bunch of sweet treats to bring to the new mothers. Older adults in the neighbourhood have treasured memories of saving up their pocket money to bring to Bahrs to indulge in handfuls of penny candy!
Head back to Hampden street and make your way to #80. Behind a tall bushy fence stands the Queen Alexandra House, the old maternity hospital. The hospital was established in 1908. Before then, most mothers gave birth in their homes as there was no formal training available for nurses. The infant mortality rate in Tasmania was very high, and so the state of Tasmania stepped in. They saw an increased call for trained midwives, so they opened the Queen Alexandra Hospital to train nurses for pregnant mothers. Almost immediately after opening, the number of infants death decreased. Eventually, the hospital became too small for the demand and the maternity ward was moved to the larger Royal Hobart Hospital in 1980. Today, the house is used as luxury apartments.
Turn around and walk west along St. Georges Terrace and back north along Sandy Bay Road. Then turn back onto Hampden Street to visit Narryna Heritage Museum. The Narryna Heritage Museum is a delightful place to visit to explore what the interiors of a 1830’s style merchant house would have looked like. Designs and furnishings from early colonial Tasmania have been preserved here. The house and their collection help tell the story of life in Tasmania for those early settlers. The Georgian townhouse was built by the seafarer, Captain Andrew Haig. Haig also built the famous Salamanca warehouses in 1834.
Admission: 10 AUD for adults and 4 AUD for Children.
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10 am – 4 pm | Closed Mondays and Sundays
At the end of Hampden Street, the road curves downwards along with Montpelier Retreat. The area around Montpelier Retreat was built up in 1830s and was considered an area built for the lowest class of workers. Many residents here had large families but little money. The old red brick Portsea Terrace apartment are one of the first examples of a multi-unit residential building in Hobart. At this time almost everyone lived in single-family households. Owner, Thomas Fisher, came up with the idea of creating these large blocks of townhouses so he could fit more residences into a smaller plot of land. They were designed in traditional Georgian architecture popular in townhouses of the day. The Terrance apartments had the best locations in the area as they were so close to the nearby harbour and fishery.
Take a walk south along Sandy Bay Road. Sandy Bay Road along the edge of Battery Point and acts almost like its bounding wall. The road began as a simple dirt track during the colonial era. As space was widened over time, trams and trolleybuses used the roadway to ferry people in from the outer edge of Hobart. While many of the houses along this street have been modernized, there are a few real gems! Stop in at #63 on the corner of St. George Terrance for a beautiful example of a Federation-style house.
These types of houses were built during the Federations era in the 19th century into the 1920s. It was one of the most distinctly Australian styles of architecture. One key feature of the building is the front verandas with decorative timber handrails. They are usually deep red or dark brown in colour. The roofs were made of terracotta tiles with an assortment of decorative gables and motifs. This current home’s roof has since been replaced. This particular house is made in Federation Queen Anne style as it features an asymmetrical facade,white-painted window frames and a series of decorative timber features. My favourite part of the home is the beautiful stained glass windows facing out onto the street.
Take a walk along St. George’s Terrace, where you’ll find the steps to Nanny Goat Lane. Nanny Goat Lane is home to one of the best spots to get an amazing view across Hobart. This steep and skinny set of steps is essential to help residents make their way from Quayle Street to St Georges Terrace. These little shortcut steps can be found all over the city. Originally, many of these access points were made by the residents themselves and not the city. But in recent years, they have become both historical and accessible assets.
Continue along St. George’s Terrance until you reach Colville Street. Here you have the most incredible view of the water to the left and the sprawling city, crawling over the hillside to your right.
Walk up Colville Street and West along Cromwell Street until you reach the Old St. George Church. St. George’s Anglican Church is a Greek revival church built to serve Battery Point residents in 1838. English convict architect James Blackburn designed the classical tower in 1847. Blackburn had been sentenced to prison in Australia as a sentence for forgery. But the Tasmanian city council saw right away his talent, and he was pardoned shortly after arriving. After his pardon, he started up a private practice with James Thomson, another former convict. The tower is one of the most impressive parts of the church and a worthy addition.
Opposite the church stands two Italian-style townhomes with arched portico entrances. While these homes are modern 20th-century designs, the site on which they stand was once the spot where the famous “Luckman’s Mill” was once located. It was here in 1834 that James Luckman built the town’s first windmill. Luckman was an ex-convict who had served seven years in Van Diemens Land. After his release, he went about restarting his life in Australia. His enormous mill could be seen from this vantage point high up on the hill from incoming ships arriving at the port. Unfortunately, the mill was shuttered in 1883, and the land after that was sold off for residential use.
Walk back to Cromwell Street and continue east until you reach Napoleon Street. The houses along the waterfront are much larger in scale compared to the other homes in the neighbourhood. In 1830s, Napoleon Street was where you’d find one of the largest shipyards in Hobart. One of the reasons that shipbuilding was such good business in Hobart was because the native blue gum trees were so well suited to boat-building.
John Watson was master shipbuilding who was brought to Van Dieman’s Land in 1833. He was summoned to help train the convicts in the shipyards at Port Arthur. When he finished serving his governmental duties, he had fallen in love with the land. Therefore, decided to set up his own shipyard in 1839 on the eastern side of Napoleon Street. The famous Alexander McGregor studied under Watson before setting out on his own. Many of the gorgeous Victorian houses along Napoleon street belonged to the rich shipbuilders who worked just on the other side of the hill along the waterfront. These have some of the most fantastical colours and beautiful wrought iron lace verandas.
Walk down from Napoleon Street towards the water (to the point marked on the map). This old red brick building is one of the last remaining Mariners Cottages. These cottages are thought to be the oldest remaining buildings on the shipbuilding yards of Napoleon Street. They were built for shipbuilder John Watson around 1842. Initially, Watson used them as storehouses, but after selling the shipyards, they were transformed into small residences for the growing Hobart population. In 1939 the homes were bought by the Hobart City Council as heritage buildings. Despite their meagre size, the council had to spend more than $20,000 in repairs to restore them and preserve them for future generations.
Heading up Trumpeter Street, we reach the white brick and blue-trimmed exterior of the Shipwrights Arms Hotel or, as the locals call it, “Shippies.” This hotel/pub was first built in 1846 as a place to serve the thirsty shipyard workers. The workers both needed a place to drink after a long hard day of labour, but as many were only temporary workers they needed a place to lay their head. Today, the hotel and pub remain almost exactly as it was when it was first opened so you can dine inside a piece of Hobart’s history.
The interior is awash with marine and Tasmanian memorabilia—my favourite aspect of the building is the nautically themed stained glass windows. If you’re looking for a bite to eat, Shippies serves up excellent Tasmanian produce and an ever-changing menu that features the local catch of the day! There is also a massive bar with only local beers and cider on tap!
Walk along Hampden Street until you reach Kelly Street. Kelly Street was named after James Kelly, an explorer who circumnavigated Tasmania in 1816. And in only a 5-oared whaling boating nonetheless! Kelly went on to become a whale-oil merchant. Back then whale oil was one of the highest-selling commodities of the Hobart ports. To export the oil, he needed to employ shipwrights, sailmakers, ship chandlers, coopers to make barrels, smiths, wharf labourers, and watermen to ferry the cargo. These men needed to live close to the warehouse, so Kelly took his huge plot of land and subdivided it into smaller cottages for her workers. You can still see many of these old cottages today.
Kelly Street was home to a private school run by Miss Hogg. The school opened in 1860 at Number 34 Kelly Street. The steep roof of Number 33 was home to a greengrocer operated by James Merchant’s wife. In Hobart, it was common for women to have employment even back them to help supplement their family’s income. Some women would take in the washing of wealthier families, others sewed, and many women worked in the fruit preserving factory on Hunter Street.
But the most important part of the street is the famous Kelly Steps. The steps were also made by Kelly in 1839. He wanted a shortcut for him and his workers to access the warehouses in Salamanca Place from their homes in Battery Point. The steps were carved into the hillside and from the top provide a stunning view out towards the piers. As the steps were carved almost 200 years ago, they weren’t quite made to code and are very steep so watch your step!
Battery Point is one of the most enjoyable places to wander around even if you aren’t interested in following this tour. But hopefully, this guided introduction gives you a better idea of the history of this wonderful neighbourhood and the people who once (and still do) reside here!
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