I was lucky enough to spend an entire week in Seville last summer, and despite the staggering waves of heat that shimmered off the cobblestones, I found myself completely enchanted. With a giant sunhat on my head and a water bottle in hand, I wandered through some of the city’s most breathtaking spots, grand palaces, quiet cloisters, leafy courtyards, and more often than not, I felt like I had them all to myself. It was as if Seville had cracked open its gates just for me, revealing its most intimate and storied corners in the stillness of the midday lull.
While the city is best known for its soaring grand cathedral and Royal Alcázar, there’s another side of Seville that reveals itself when you slip off the beaten path. This full-day walking tour is crafted for curious travellers eager to explore tranquil corners, hidden patios, and centuries-old sanctuaries that offer a slower, more soulful experience.
Palacio de las Dueñas
Begin your day at the northernmost edge of the old town, where Palacio de las Dueñas opens its gates to a world of noble elegance and artistic soul. As you cross the threshold into the courtyard, a hush seems to fall over the air, broken only by the trickle of a fountain surrounded by lemon trees. The courtyards are pure magic, even in the heat of summer. Lush green trees swayed gently in the breeze, fountains trickle softly, and there often isn’t a sound apart from the birds and the soft shuffle of your own footsteps.
The walls, cloaked in blooming bougainvillea, lead you to airy rooms filled with antique tapestries, sunlit corridors, and family portraits that seem to follow you with their gaze. The palace unfolds like a time capsule. Each room is filled with art, antique furniture, and stories I could almost hear whispering from the walls.
Once home to the Duchess of Alba and the birthplace of poet Antonio Machado, the palace blends Gothic and Renaissance details with a homespun charm. One moment I was admiring a portrait, the next I was standing in the quiet chapel, imagining the prayers of those who once lived here. There was something incredibly personal about the space, as if the Duchess of Alba had just stepped out for a moment and might return at any time.
Convento de Santa Paula
From there, take a short stroll to the Convento de Santa Paula, an easy-to-miss gem behind thick stone walls. In Seville, buying sweets from cloistered nuns is a beloved tradition. Look for a small wooden door and give the bell a ring. You may not understand the reply, but soon the door will buzz open, leading you into a shaded courtyard that feels like a sanctuary.
There was a printed list of flavours in both Spanish and English laid out on the counter, and the nun will patiently help you choose. I couldn’t resist the orange blossom jam; it felt like the perfect way to capture the scent and spirit of Seville in a jar.
Palace of the Countess of Lebrija
Wander further south through Seville’s winding lanes until you reach the Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija, a mansion that feels like a time capsule curated by an inquisitive soul. Built in the 16th century and transformed by the Countess in the 20th century, this home is filled with treasures from her archaeological expeditions and is testament to a women’s efforts to make a name for herself in a field previously only held by men!
Stepping inside, I found myself tiptoeing over vast Roman mosaics, entire scenes of myth and history beneath my feet. Moorish arches framed courtyards lined with azulejos, and shelves brimmed with ancient artifacts, each whispering a fragment of a story. You can spend ages admiring the carved wood ceilings and painted tilework, marvelling at how the Countess had fused art and architecture from all different epochs into a single, harmonious space.
Taberna Águilas
When it’s time for lunch, make your way to Taberna Águilas. The moment you step inside, you’re greeted by the warm aroma of garlic, olive oil, and slow-simmered tomatoes drifting from the kitchen. Be sure to try the espinacas con garbanzos, an earthy Sevillian staple made with stewed spinach and chickpeas, alongside a bowl of creamy, chilled salmorejo. And don’t miss the montadito de pringá, a humble yet flavorful open-faced sandwich piled with tender, slow-cooked meats. If you’re visiting in the summer, skip the sangria and do as the locals do: order a glass of the house vermouth, served cold it’s the perfect way to cool off.
Convento de San Leandro
For dessert, let’s head to another convent, this time, the Convento de San Leandro. At the back of this church, you’ll find a quaint little turnstile window, framed by classic blue and white tiles that capture the essence of Sevillian charm. Above it, you’ll find a printed list of the cookies and pastries on offer, some of which even include pictures, as many of the recipes are unique to each convent. When you’re ready to order, flip the “bell,” which resembles a light switch, and a voice will respond from behind the wall. Simply say what you’d like, place your money on the wooden turnstile, and wait as it slowly spins back to you with your order. You’ll receive your sweets, your change, and a little taste of Seville’s enduring traditions.
Casa de Pilatos
A short walk from the convent brings you over to the Casa de Pilatos, a palace that looks as though it were dreamed up by an architect who couldn’t choose just one style, but in the best way possible. This 16th-century palace, still inhabited by the Dukes of Medinaceli, is one of Seville’s most stunning examples of Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance, and Roman art and architecture all under one roof.
But it’s the atmosphere, not the architecture, that stays with you. The moment you step inside, the roar of Seville fades into a reverent hush. A cool breath of stone and shade embraces you. The scent of bitter orange trees and aged stone steeped in jasmine and incense envelops you.
The palace boasts over 150 distinct tile designs by Diego and Juan Pulido, an unparalleled azulejo collection showcasing Islamic, geometric, and nature-inspired motifs. It’s a feast for the eyes and the perfect place to hide under the shaded patios from the hot afternoon sun.
AIRE Ancient Baths Sevilla
By late afternoon, the city’s heat can begin to weigh on you, and the best way to escape it while still indulging in a fabulous Sevillian experience is by making your way to AIRE Ancient Baths. From the small archway outside, you could never imagine the wonder that lies in store. Inside this restored Mudéjar building, candlelight flickers off stone walls and the soft sound of water guides you through the most relaxing ancient baths in Seville.
I lingered longest in the saltwater bath, floating weightlessly beneath an ancient vaulted ceiling. Every knot in my shoulders melted away. You can either book simple access to the thermal waters or indulge in a soothing massage using their signature orange flower blossom essential oils. Either way, you’ll emerge into the fading daylight feeling restored and ready for the evening.
La Fresquita
!When you’re ready for dinner, head over to La Fresquita, a bar that felt like a devotional altar to Semana Santa. Semana Santa is Seville’s Holy Week celebration, marked by solemn processions of ornate floats depicting the Passion of Christ. Carried by robed brotherhoods, these processions fill the streets with music, incense, and centuries-old tradition. Holy Week photos and memorabilia lined the walls of this crowded tapas bar. Squeeze your way inside and order montaditos and carne con tomate. The simple dishes burst with flavour! There are some small tables across the street, along the walls of the church, but if you’re looking for the local energy of Seville, stick to the crowded corners of the bar.
La Carbonería
As night falls, it’s time to seek out one of Seville’s most iconic experiences: a flamenco show. But rather than the polished, tourist-oriented performances in the city centre, we’re searching for a local gem. Wandering through the dim, quiet streets of the Santa Cruz district, it might feel like you’ve taken a wrong turn. Then, down an unassuming alley, a single lantern marks the spot, and you start to hear the sharp stomps, clapping, and the roar of an excited crowd.
La Carbonería feels like one of Seville’s best-kept secrets, though word of its magic has certainly spread. Once a coal warehouse, this rustic space has become a beloved local haunt for spontaneous flamenco. Inside, mismatched chairs surround long wooden tables beneath a soaring, timeworn ceiling. The walls are splashed with posters, old photos, and peeling paint.
Performances typically take place on the hour, every night from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. During the shows, cameras and recording are strictly prohibited, encouraging you, and everyone else in the audience, to be fully present. Without the glow of screens or the click of shutters, and in a building that feels untouched by time, you’re transported. The raw emotion of the music and dance holds you spellbound, as if the modern world has quietly slipped away.
The performances wrap up around 11 p.m., but the night is far from over. Inside the bar, the energy lingers, and out on the leafy patio, the atmosphere becomes especially lively. It’s the perfect place to while away the rest of the evening, drinks are delightfully cheap (cash only), and the vibe is unmatched. After a relaxed day exploring Seville’s hidden corners, there’s no better spot to end your night.
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