Many people who visit Japan never make it out of big cities like Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka. While those are all fantastic cities to visit, it might surprise you how easy it is to take a day trip from the city out to the country. There are dozens of peaceful rural towns you can visit which are only a little more than an hour away from Tokyo. Some people commute to work for longer than that every day! Thanks to the widespread high-speed train network so many of these incredible cities are easily accessible from the big city. One of my favourite day trips from Tokyo is to the great seaside city of Kamakura!
Kamakura was once the capital of Japan from 1185 to 1333. Its early importance in the history of Japan ensured its legacy forever. Kamakura’s laid-back atmosphere and proximity to both the water and mountains make it the perfect place to come and explore. Kamakura has it all packed into one lovely spot. Stroll through ancient temples, hike through the countryside, spend a day at the beach and taste your way through the bustling city center. And best of all, you can easily see it all in one day!
In 1185 Shōgun Minamoto no Yoritomo became the first Kamakura Shogunate. The Kamakura Shogunate was the feudal military government leader of Japan. One of the first things Minamoto did as Shogun was to move the seat of power in Japan to Kamakura. This period was called the ‘Kamakura Era. In the later years of its rule, Kamakura became one of the most populous settlements in Japan.
The name ‘Kamakura‘ comes from the words “kama” and “kura”. Kama means “oven” and kura means “saddle “. In ancient Japan, an oven or hearth was closed on three sides and open on one side. Kamakura itself is closed-off on all side by mountains but open on one side out to the ocean. In addition, when you look at the landscape of Kamakura from the ocean the hillside creates a saddle-like shape.
To follow along with this guided tour, you can download the step-by-step map or add it to your googlemaps.
Kamakura is a comfortable hour-long train ride from Tokyo, making it one of the easiest day-trip. If you leave from the central hub of Tokyo Station you can get directly on the Yokosuka Line. This line arrives directly at our first stop, Kita-Kamakura Station. No need to change any lines. From anywhere else in Tokyo you can still arrive quickly in Kamakura with generally just one change of trains.
No matter where you are in the city, a ticket to Kamakura will run you about 900 – 1,100 yen. So around $20 USD for a return ticket. While you are in Kamakura your main expenses will be admission into the shrines, a few train tickets and some street food. So much of this tour is on foot and only the large distances are covered on the train. A day out in Kamakura is easily done for under $60. I’ve done my best to list the costs throughout the post so you can plan accordingly.
I ALWAYS advise leaving Tokyo as early as you can, around 7:30 am if possible. This means you can nap a bit on the hour-long journey but miss the rush hour traffic. Leaving at 7:30 am means you’ll arrive in Kamakura around 8:30 – 9:00 am. This leaves you LOTS of time to leisurely explore the city. If you want to eliminate a few shrines from this guide, you can also plan this as a half-day trip along with a visit to Enoshima. But this guide is prepared for a full day, so plan your time accordingly.
Much of this tour involves going into various temples and shrines. There are specific rules to keep in mind if you wish to be respectful when visiting.
At the entrance to the shrine, you’ll find a large area of running water with a basin and ladle. This is meant for you to wash your hands and clean yourself before entering the sacred space. Take the ladle from the basin and hold it in your right hand. Take a scoop of water and pour it over your left hand. Then reverse hands and repeat. Before putting the ladle back, dip it back in the water and tilt it upwards to send a stream of water down the handle. Cleansing it one last time.
Ensure that when you enter a temple, you keep as silent as possible. Most interiors do not allow photography of any kind, so be sure to respect this rule if enforced. Your phone on silent to be sure you do no interrupt someone’s prayer.
When leaving an offering, gently drop a coin into the “saisen-bako” or offertory box. This is a large wooden trough with vertical slats to drop your coin into located in from of the Shinto shrine. Five-yen coins are considered good luck while a ten-yen coin is thought to be unlucky.
If there is a bell in front of the shrine and you have left your offering you can take the rope and ring the bell. This is thought to alert the kami (or spirits) of your presence. After you ring the bell you bow twice, clap your hands twice and then bow once more. This is the way to greet the kami after ringing the bell.
If you wish to pray in front of any of the Buddist statues we will see on the tour, simply hold your hands together in silent prayer.
Your arrival in Kamakura will begin at Kita-Kamakura station. “Kita” in Japanese means “north” as this station is slightly north of the city center and main train station. What I love about coming right into a smaller countryside station is you immediately feel the difference from the big city. The station has just two platforms and a tiny entrance gate.
Just on the other side of the train tracks is the entrance to Engaku-ji Temple. This temple complex is one of the most important Zen Buddhist temples in all of Japan. A tall staircase is nestled in the heart of this incredible cedar forest, leading you into the temple. The first building built here was made in 1282. It was made in honour of the fallen soldiers of the second invasion of the Mongols. Despite the original date of its construction, since the buildings were all made of wood, multiple fires have damaged and destroyed them throughout the ages. Therefore many of the current incarnations are reconstructions of the original designs.
The complex opens at 8 am, just as the morning sun begins to rise. I can still smell the morning dew on the cedar needles as I walked up the staircase.
When you walk up the temple path, you begin by walking up a set of low stairs leading you up to this grand wooden gate. This is the Sanmon gate, a two-storey work of art that was rebuilt in 1785. Look close at the upper levles to find an intricate series of carvings.
The most crucial carving is that of the Bodhisattva statues, people on the path to enlightenment. There are also sixteen carvings of the arhats (those who have achieved nirvana) and the twelve yakshas (heavenly generals who protect the temple).
A series of smaller structures seem to guide you towards the Butsudan or main hall. Large juniper trees lean in towards the entrance, keeping it safe from the elements around it. This is where the holy wooden statue of the Shaka Buddha is housed. This Buddha was made in the Kamakura period, around the 13th century. The Shaka Buddha is different from other Buddha images as this one is crowned with a golden headband. There are also two other statues of the Bonten and Taishakuten in the hall, dating back to 1692.
Look up at the ceiling inside and soak in the splendour of the beautiful dragon painting on the roof. This was painted under the supervision of one of Japan’s greatest contemporary painters; Season Maeda, around 1945. Seison Maeda moved to Kamakura after his home in the city was destroyed during a bombing raid. He lived just on the other side of the Kita-Kamakura Station, where he could see the temple complex from his window. He lived there until his death at the age of 92 and is buried at a nearby temple.
One of my favourite parts Engaku-ji is the pathway leading towards the back of the complex. There, you’ll find a perched series of buildings set over top of a small pond. Above them, the swell of the forest crashes over the rooftops. It is such a sight to see!
Towards the back of the complex, you’ll find a small, single-storied building with a steep pent roof covered in ancient cypress park shingles. This catches your eye right away as its design is so unique. The Sharidan, while small in size, houses the most precious items from the temple’s collection: a tooth from the Buddha themself. This is considered a National Treasure and the building which houses it, a reliquary.
Opposite the Sharidan, follow the path, to find a smaller marker indicating the White Deer Cave. On the opening day of the temple complex, when the preacher came out to give her sermon, it was said that a white deer emerged from this cave to listen to him. This was seen as a much auspicious event, and to this day, the cave is protected to ensure the mystical white deer is not disturbed.
Head back towards where you entered, but instead of going back down the stairs, head towards the complex’s south-east end. There you will find a stone torii gate leading to another set of stairs. This takes you through the forest once more into the Bentendo.
The stairs seem to go up and up, further into the woods. When you reach the top, your walk will be rewarded with an incredible lookout over the hills and mountains of Kamakura. The temple up here is dedicated to Benten or Benzaiten, goddess of wealth, happiness, wisdom and music.
There is also a tea house here with a simple series of benches to sit and enjoy your macha. I would highly recommend taking a break for tea here as the views are stunning. Just outside the Bentendo is a small structure containing the Great Bell. This large copper bell is 2.6 meters tall and one of the largest in Kamakura. It was made in the 12th century and is a real piece of history.
Head back down to Kita-Kamakura Station and walk two minutes down the road towards Tokei-ji. Tokei-ji is a Buddist temple and formal nunnery. Nunneries are a real rarity to find in Japan and only five nunneries actually still survive.
In Japan, nunneries were a sanctuary for women who had been abused by their husbands and needed to escape. In the 13th century, divorce was not an option for these women. Running to a nunnery was their only way to get out of the bad situation they were in. For this reason, the temple also goes by the nickname “Divorce Temple“. Over 200 years, over 2,000 women came here to seek refuge. In the late 19th century, once women were able to initiate divorce themselves, the temple was converted into a monastery.
Other than the temple’s rich history, people often come here to see the beautiful flower garden. Throughout the year the garden blooms all around the temple complex. The cherry blossom trees are magnificent to see in the Springtime. It seems fitting that a temple dedicated to protecting women would be surrounded by such stunning of natural beauty.
Amidst the gardens, you’ll find the beautiful statue of the Buddha. Peacefully sitting among the pine and cedar trees, he looks our serenely at you as you approach. As if granting you a moment of gentle acknowledgment. The buddha is in abhaya mudra position. The gesture of blessing represents protection, peace, benevolence and the dispelling of fear. No doubt it brought lots of comfort to the women who came here to escape their cruel husbands.
One of the most serene parts of the temple complex is towards the back, deep in the forest. Here you will find a small graveyard where many different Japanese celebrities have been buried. In Japan, it is important to leave items atop the graves of your family members. These items represent things they once loved in life and how the living continue to pay respect to the dead.
Exit the temple and walk back to the road. Follow the road south towards the river crossing. Walk beside the river’s edge, along Meigetsuin Street. This street will begin to go uphill quickly as you moved into the thick of Kamakura’s hillside. The road is narrow, but the street is popular with the visitor as well. You’ll often find street vendors on either side of the road selling souvenirs and street food. The houses along the route are beautiful examples of historic countryside houses.
The further you walk along the street, the fewer tourist you’ll find will be walking with you. It begins to feel like you are entering an area that is just residential. But continue onwards and soak in the beauty which is this quiet area. After around 10 minutes, you should reach your destination, which is Ishikawa Coffee. The coffee shop feels like a secret hideaway in the mountains, and maybe that’s why the coffee tastes so good. There are lots of delicious baked goods here to recharge your system for the rest of the day. While the 10-minute hike up to the coffee shop might seem like a long side-quest just for coffee but it gives you a reason to see the lovely rural houses of the people who live in Kamakura. Plus you get a little reward at the end.
Jump back on the metro at Kita-Kamakura Station and head one-stop to Kamakura station. At Kamakura station, you can change lines onto the historic Enoden Line. The Enoden line only covers 10 kilometres of track across this area of Japan but it is a truly scenic 10 kilometres. It was established in 1902 to connected Kamakura to various famous spots like Enoshima Shrine, Iwaya Caves, the beach and more.
One of the things that make this train line so popular is the rail cars’ iconic design. These look like they are straight from anime cartoons with their retro, brightly coloured exteriors. The trains are so iconic they even have little gatchapon toys you can buy outside the stations. For 300 yen it’s a great little souvenir of your time on the Enoden.
Ride the Enoken to Hase Station. Five minutes from the station, you walk over to Hasedera Temple, for which the train station is named. When you arrive at Hasedera Temple, the first thing you will notice is the iconic pine tree that leans towards the entrance to the temple. As if protecting it from the elements. The Hasedera temple is a Buddhist temple built into the mountain “Kannon-zan.” It is most famous for the massive wooden statue of Kannon that is housed in the temple on top of the mountain.
When you enter through the ticket booth, you step right into the beautiful gardens—these welcome visitors with a spread of blooms throughout the year. In the winter, you can find ume blossoms and narcissus sprouting up..
In the spring, the sakura petals fall on the green grass, and 150 varieties of bright white, red and pink peonies cover the bushes. Summertime brings lotus blossoms and hydrangeas that pop open all over the hillside. In the fall, the red spider lilies bloom along with floral Hibiscus’.
To the right of the entrance, be sure to visit the mysterious Benten-kutsu Cave. The Benten or Benzaiten cave was a sacred place where the Buddist saint, Kobo Dashi, practiced in the seclusion. Inside the candle-lit cave is a large statue of the Benzaiten as well as 16 of her followers.
The Benzaiten is one of the female goddesses of Buddism, who represents feminine beauty and wealth. Inside the cave you’ll find thousands of tiny wooden carvings of the Benzaiten, playing her biwa. The Biwa is an ancient Japanese instrument, essentially a long neck lute. It was traditionally used in narrative storytelling. You can buy a minature of her for 300 yen and leave it here in your honour. Or just keep it as a souvenir, either way, the money goes towards the temple.
As you climb the hill to the upper temple, you will notice the hundreds of statues that line the staircases and hillside. These are statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva, the guardian deity of children who help guide their souls to paradise. When the temple was first built, parents would come here and dedicate a statue to their children to protect the Kannon. Over the years, the symbolism of Jizo statues has changed. Today, they are markers of the souls of children who were lost to miscarriage or stillborn children. Some of the statues are tied with bibs or hand-knit clothing. Never forgotten by their would-be mothers.
While knowing this makes the rows and rows of tiny statues a seemingly sad image, their smiling faces tell another story. That their souls are at rest, and they are happy wherever they are. Each year old statues are burned or buried to make room for more, but they bring a smile to many faces they greet while they remain.
Another stop to make along the stairs towards the top is at the Inari Shrine. Inari shrines are a type of Japanese shrine used to worship a particular deity. These shrines aren’t inside the typical building but instead marked by a series of vermillion torii gates. Along the edges of the shrine, there are walls with wooden plaques called the ema. These plaques are left with messages from people who come to pray at the shrine. Typically the ema are in the form of the deity of the inari shrine. In the case of this shrine, we find one of the most peculiar deities, the oyster!
The oysters or kakigara were thought to protect the Kannon Goddess statue while she was at sea. The oysters clung to the wooden figure to protect her from damage or any other predators. The walls here are covered in shells representing the precious kakigara.
When you finally reach the top, the first thing you will see is the Shoro Belfy. This great bell was initially made in 1264 and is the oldest bell in Kamakura. It is rung every morning at 8 am when the gates to the temple open.
The grand temple at the top is actually made up of three different buildings. The first of which is the Amida Hall. The Amida is the “Buddha of Immeasurable Light and Life.” Inside the building, you will find a golden statue of the great Amida. This Buddha is thought to promise rebirth to all those who chant his name.
Inside the Hondo, or Main Hall, is where you’ll find the great statue of the Kannon Goddess. The Kannon Goddess is one of the most precious relics of Japan. It is the tallest wooden statue, standing at 30 feet tall! Legend has it that two figures were carved out of a giant sacred tree. One was sent to the temple in Nara, and the other was thrown into the water.
It was said that wherever the statue reappeared would be a new sacred place. After 15 long years, the statue turned up on the shores near Kamakura, and the temple was built in its honour in 726 AD. The Kannon Goddess is the Goddess of Mercy. She is an 11-headed spirit, each head representing a different phase in the search for enlightenment.
Atop the hill, there is a panoramic view of Yuigahama Beach. You can enjoy the view while sitting outside the cafeteria on the long communal tables.
Get something to drink or have a cold ice cream cone to enjoy in the summertime. Either way, this is the best place to see over all of Kamakura.
To head down from the top, take a walk along the Prospect’s path that winds down the mountain’s western side. This pathway is famous in the summer when it is littered with multi-coloured blooming hydrangeas.
Before you get to the exit at the bottom of the path, you come across the beautiful secret bamboo forest. In the center of the forest is the Kyōzō. A Kyōzō is a repository for Buddhist scriptures or sūtras. Each one of these was handwritten in beautiful Japanese calligraphy then rolled into a cylinder. Each of the rolled scrolls is placed inside a central pillar, which revolves. This is called the rinzō or wheel repository.
Pay special attention to the large wood cylinders along the wall. These are called “mani” or prayer wheels, used in Tibetan Buddhism. It is believed that when you turned this mani, you will receive the same virtues when the correct prayers are recited. This is perhaps one of the most overlooked parts of the temple complex, and yet, as a bibliophile, I found it to be one of the best interests of the tour.
A short 7-minute walk from Hasedera temple brings you to the gates of Kōtoku-in. Kōtoku-in is home to perhaps the most impressive monument of Kamakura, the Great Daibutsu. ‘Daibutsu‘ is the Japanese word for “giant Buddha.”
Walking in the front gates, you can immediately see the Buddha rising in front of the mountains in the background. As you enter, there is a plaque that reads: “Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. This is the Temple of Buddha and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence.”
The 43 ft tall bronze statue has been sitting in the same spot since 1252. The first incarnation of the statue was made in wood in 1243. The wooden statue took many years to be completed. But after all that work, the wooden sculpture was destroyed by a great storm in 1248. As a result, a new version was commissioned, and this one was to be made in bronze. The new bronze statue was finally completed in 1252, and it hasn’t moved since. I mean, it weighs 93 tonnes; I don’t think it’s going anywhere.
Originally the Buddha was housed inside a great hall. But year after year, the hall was destroyed by Kamakura’s rough seaside weather. After the most violent storm in 1369, the rebuilding of the hall was abandoned. Since then the statue has remained in the open air. And I think I far prefer it this way. The gorgeous contrast of the bronze buddha against the bright blue sky is one of the most stunning images.
At one point, the great Buddha was covered in gold gilding. Only a few gold pieces remain around the ears and cheeks, the rest lost to the ages. On either side of the Buddha are two incredible carvings of climbing lotus blossoms. Originally there were 10 of these surrounding the Buddha. But the rest were either stolen or lost over time.
The design of the Buddha was made in the “song style.” This was the prevalent method of sculpture art in the Kamakura period. This style is represented by the bowl-shaped hair strands, a flat, square face, stooped posture and oversized head. The clothes which the Buddha wears over their shoulders are a simple, single piece of fabric. This remains slightly open around the chest as if to express a sliver of mortality. Unlike some Buddha statues, which have a raised hand, this statue sits with its hands on its knees. This is the position of contemplation and grounding. Because the figure is hollow, you can even stick your head inside and get a look at the interior. There is a winding staircase inside the Buddha which was used when creating it and is also used for repairs.
Before heading back to the train station, walk down from the temple directly to Yuigahama Beach! It would be such a shame to come all this way without enjoying some time on the sand. There is a 7-Eleven and a Family Mart on the way back to the beach, which you can stop off at to get yourself everything you need for a lovely beach picnic.
Yuigahama Beach offers views of Enoshima Island. The beach itself is filled with rich iron sands and you can find lots of pretty little shells along the shore. The coast is very popular with the locals during the summer months. There are even places that rent chairs and umbrellas to sit out under on the sand. In the summer, there are also street vendors selling the popular Japanese shaved ice dessert; kakigori!
Once you are finished at the beach, jump back on the Enoden train and head back over to Kamakura station. From the station, head outside and over to Komachi Street. You’ll be able to spot the street from the station by the large red torii gate, which marks the entrance.
Komachi Street or Komachi-dori is one of the six historic main roads that formed the initial layout of the city of Kamakura. Today, the street is the most popular shopping area for residents and tourists alike. You can find everything from souvenirs to local treats and lovely restaurants. While the street is pretty busy, don’t let that put you off, as everyone is here to enjoy all the amazing things to eat and drink in Kamakura! Because the road is so popular, it is designated as a pedestrian-only zone. Komachi Street is a great place to wander along and try out different local street foods. While there are many traditional Japanese classics, you need to try a few unique ones local to Kamakura!
Hydrangeas are Kamakura’s iconic flower. They can be found in gardens and flower beds everywhere you look in the Spring. They are a local obsession. Just as Sakura’s seem to be a Japanese obsession, Kamakura residents love their hydrangeas. At Komachi Chaya, you can get not only a hydrangea black tea but also a beautiful kakigori inspired by the colours of the hydrangea. Traditionally a kakigori is either plain or covered in toppings. But this one is served with a tray of various fruit compotes on the side to pour on top to your personal preference! Such a unique way to serve kakigori, so the fruit doesn’t immediately melt the ice.
Daifuku is one of Japan’s most popular desserts, made from mochi with a sweet red bean filling. Here in Kamakura, they have a very unique take on the sweet; the Zunda Daifuku. Zunda is soybeans, also known as edamame. These savoury beans are ground up into a paste and placed inside the mochi. This gives it a much less sweet flavour than the traditional red bean variety. No for everyone, but worth giving a try! You can find the Zunda Daifuku at KYO Kamakura.
One of Kamakura’s most famous local delicacies is Shirasu, or whitebait. These tiny fish are like minature sardines and are usually served raw, in a large amount as they are so small. Because eating them just on their own can be a little intimidating if you’re not used to eating a pile of tiny fish with faces, Hannari Inari has an excellent option for you. They have recently come up with the ‘Shirasuka.’ The Shirasuka is a Japanese omelette filled with Shirasu. These are served on a stick to be easily eaten on the go. The fish adds an umami flavour to the egg and balances out its sweetness.
A “rusk” was something I had never heard of before coming to Kamakura. A Rusk or “rasuku” is a slice of bread that has been covered in butter and sugar and then toasted until it is crisp like a crouton. The sugar caramelizes while cooking adding to the rich flavour. Kamakurayama Rusk has taken the treats to another level. Their rusks come in these vortex designs with swirling colours that are mesmerizing. They even come in different shapes as well. But what really makes them unique are the flavours. You can find macha, burdock, fruit sala, berry shortcake, earl grey, caramel, and more!
Kamakura Ichibanya is a shop that makes fresh senbei right there on the street. The smell wafts down the road, guiding you over like in a trance. Senbei are Japanese rice crackera. The ones sold here come in many different flavours, including the most popular; nori wrapped topped in a sweet soy sauce.
My favourite stop on the food tour is Sakura no Yumemiya. This shop sells a variety of fantastic dango. Dango are Japanese dumplings made from rice flour. They are very similar to mochi, but the balls of rice flour are smaller, the size of a marble, and steamed to make them super bouncy instead of chewy. While dango usually comes in just one of two flavours, this shop has dozens and dozens of toppings that jazz it up.
You can get Sakura, chestnut, roasted soybean, taro, honey lemon, strawberry, edamame, and even nori wrapped! You can also even get one stick of dango covered in a mixture of different toppings! The best way to try all their other flavours without getting too full!
Kamakura Mameya is best known for the candy-coloured dried nuts and legumes. This place is so popular among the locals so prepare to wait. Inside you’ll find peanuts, Komachi beans, soybeans, Koiso pea, broad beans, as well as dried seasonal produce like grapes, tangerines and Sakura. Each one of these treats is covered in brightly coloured toppings making everything look like a piece of candy even when it is actually pretty healthy!
The lines can be pretty long at this shop, but it’s well worth it! Momiji Chaya are famous for their matcha tiramisu! The entire dessert is served within the most aesthetic bamboo box and perfectly levelled out to make it look like it is merely a dessert cube. The whole thing is covered in a dusting of fresh macha to add a bit of bitterness to balance the tiramisu’s sweetness.
If you enjoyed the Shirasu omelette earlier, I would implore you to try out a Shirasu-don. This is a whitebait rice bowl. The Shirasu served like this really brings out the fish’s flavour more and is one of the most traditional ways to enjoy the local catch of the day. While other shops usually serve the Shirasu raw, Kamakura Karari also offers it broiled or cooked in a tempura fritter! I opted for the fritter, and it was amazing!
To finish the day off, let’s spend the last few hours of sunlight at the most important shrine in Kamakura; Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū. Despite the fact it is one of the most important, it is also one of the newest shrines. That being said, it is still almost 1000 years old!
Shogunate Minamoto no Yoritomo was the founder of the Kamakura. When he became Shogunate, his first task was to move the captial of Japan from Kyoto to his home in Kamakura. Kamakura was previously a simple fishing village. When it became the capital they essentially had a fresh space to create a capital city. The second task Minamoto did was to move the Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine to Kamakura from its previous location in Zaimokuza.
The Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine is dedicated to the god Hachiman. Hachiman is the divine protector of Japan. He is known as the “god of martial arts” as he was the great patron deity of the samurai. Moving the temple of Hachiman also meant moving the nation’s best warriors to reside in the new location in order to protect this new government.
The name “Hachiman” means “eight banners.” Emperor Ōjin is the divine spirit of the deity Hachiman, and it is the legend that when he was born, eight heavenly banners flew through the sky, carried by doves, to signal his birth. You will find images of doves used as talismans in reference to Emperor Ōjin.
Walking up to the shrine, the first thing which greets you is a large red torii gate. Opposite the red torii gate is a low-lying stone bridge that crosses two ponds on either side. The two Genpei ponds represent the Minamoto clan on the left and the Taira clan on the right. The Taira clan was the bitter rival of Shogun Minamoto. On the left side which is in honour of the Minamoto clan, the pond has three little islands. The number three in Japan symbolizes birth. The pond on the right, on the other hand, has four islands. The number four represents death, corresponding with the pond associated with the rival clan. Perhaps used as an omen and warning to those who come to the shrine with cruel intentions.
Living inside the pond are many different coloured koi fish and cute softshell turtles. There are lots of waterfowl too, creating a constant flurry of activity in the trees and water. In the summertime, the entirety of the water’s surface is blooming with lotus flowers and is such a sight to see!
Because the new Shogun had complete control of his new captial city’s design, he wanted to ensure that it was built with Feng Shui in mind.
Feng Shui is a Chinese principle that focuses on the natural forces on earth. The idea is that these forces can be harmonized and controlled to create power and good fortune. One way this is done is by the orientation of building around these invisible forces. Many principles of Feng Shui were kept in mind when designing the layout of the shrine. They had consulted the royal diviner who chose this place as it had a mountain to the north, a river to the east, a great road to the west and an opening to the south.
Walking up towards the first bridge might find that both sides of the larger stone bridge are closed off by a red gate. This is because this bridge was reserved for the Shogunate only. The common folk needed to use a flatter bridge on either side to access the shrine. Despite the fact that the shogun of Kamakura is long dead the tradition remains as a memory to him. To the left of the shogun bridge, stands an ancient plum pine tree.
After crossing the bridge, walk out onto the pond towards the Hataage Benzaiten Shrine. This can be found to the right of the entrance. A series of white flags mark this shrine. Each of these flags is a prayer left by visitors. If you wish to purchase your own flag to leave on the island you can purchase one near the shrine. If you have google translate downloaded on your phone you can use this to help translate some of the prayers left behind. Like a wave of wishes blowing in the wind.
As you continue down the complex, you’ll see a large crossing on either side of you. This is the ancient archery track. This was where the traditional Yabusame Shinto ritual would take place. This Shinto ritual would occur once a year. All the best samurai would come here to compete against each other for the glory of the shogun. They would mount their hoses and attempt to shoot three targets while riding at full speed down the track.
The event was started when the new Shogun realized that his archers lacked skills with their bow. He thought this would give them a good incentive to practice. Even today, a festival is held yearly in the fall where people dress in costume and perform the ritual just the great samurai would have years ago.
The building at the base of the stairs is called the Maiden or Shimoden. The most famous woman in Japanese history and literature was a Shizuka Gozen or Lady Shizuka. She was a court dancer and mistress of Minamoto no Yoshitsune. Shizuka Gozen devoted herself to Minamoto and would dance for him with a passion that would entrance all those who watched. Famously, she would come here to perform some of her most memorable productions. Today, the Maiden is still a popular spot for dances and musical performances. As well as weddings and festivals which are held here throughout the year.
Every morning at the Maiden, people gather to offer rice, sake, vegetables, fruits, and other offerings to Hachiman. Locals come to pray for the prosperity of the Imperial Family and the nation. This ritual is called onikkusai.
In addition to paying your respects to Hachiman okami, you can also come to pray for the safety of your family and the health of your body.
Off to the left of the Maiden, you’ll see a large structure filled with giant sake barrels. Different sake producers will donate large sums of money to the shrines in order to ensure good fortune for their companies. These barrels are only ceremonial and do not contain any real sake but they are still such a beautiful thing to look at.
On the eastern side of the lower level, you will find the Shirahata Shrine, also called the Junior Shrine. This is where the spirit of Minamoto Yoritomo and Minamoto Sanetomo are enshrined. The dark wood of the shrine is painted black and embellished with gold trim. Many people come to this shrine to pray for victory in honour of the great shogun.
Right beside the shrine, you’ll find the Masako stones. When you pour water on the rocks, an image of a turtle or a crane will appear. Both the crane and the turtle represent longevity as it is fabled that cranes and turtles have life spans of thousands of years. Pour some water on the rocks to pray for some life longevity for yourself!
On the western side of the complex, you’ll find this old, seemingly forgotten building. This is the Soreisha, the shrine dedicated to the ancestor spirits. Many people seem to miss this building and it is one of the most peaceful areas of the place. It is a newer shrine, erected in 1949. The spirits which are said to reside here are thought to protect the land and people come here to pray for their own protection.
The staircase leading to the main shrine is flanked on either side by two trees. But you might notice that the one on the left is significantly smaller. This was once where a great ginkgo tree once stood for over 1000 years. It was a precious treasure of the nation and a holy place for pilgrims.
In March 2010, a huge storm came through and uprooted the tree. Although great efforts were made to replant it, the tree could not be saved in its entirety. Because the tree was so important, the trunk was replanted in the hopes it would reproduce leaves (which it since has). Other cuttings were also replanted, and they have even begun to multiply and regrown.
The tree was said to have played a large part in the assassination of shōgun Minamoto no Sanetomo in 1219. The assassin, his nephew, hid in the tree as his uncle was leaving the shrine. When he walked down the stairs, his nephew jumped from the tree and attacked. He thought this act would enable him to become the next Shogun, but the public didn’t support his succession, and instead, he was beheaded the same day for his actions.
The large stairway leading up to the main shrine contains 61 steps. 61 in an interesting number as it is thought to be unlucky. Perhaps the uprooting of the tree and the assassination were both brought about by the unlucky omens of the stairs.
As you climb the stairs, you pass through the Sakura Gate to enter the main shrine, the Jogu. This building was recently renovated in the 21st century when the previously plain wood was repainted in this bright vermillion. The main shrine enshrines Emperor Ojin, Himegami and Empress Jingu.
On the front of the shrine is a black sign with gold lettering. The Japanese character at the top represents a dove which is the messenger used by the deity Hachiman.
At most shrines you can buy an ema, a wood plaque, to leave your prayers on. The emas at this shrine are printed with the image of the great ginkgo tree.
You can also get yourself a souvenir omikuji or random paper fortune outside the shrine. You can get on here for 200 yen that comes with your fateful prediction as well as a dove charm in honour of the deity Hachiman. When you open the fortune, should it be unlucky, fold the paper in a thin strip and place it inside the nearby “bad luck box.” Place your hand around the arrow above the box as this is said to help remove the bad luck.
The main shrine is separated into three areas, the main sanctuary, the treasure hall and the worship hall, each connected through long hallways. The Treasure Hall is located on the west side of the main sancutary and contains sacred items from the history of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. This is the only part of the temple complex which requires admission (200 yen).
Inside, you can find such things as samurai swords from the 18th century, black lacquer arrows, 19th-century bows and quivers, and a series of ceremonial kimonos.
On the western side of the Jogu, you will find the Senior Shrine, the Maruyama Inari Shrine. This is the oldest remaining shrine on the grounds. Standing guard outside this part of the shrine we find the Inari who are kami foxes. Kami are Japanese spirits. The fox spirits are thought to bring fertility to the land and are often seen as the spirits of agriculture.
To the right of the shrine, you’ll find a series of torii gates. Walking down the hillside through the torii gates will lead you back down to the lower level. The flags which appear in front of the torii gates have been purchased by those who pray for prosperity in their businesses. These are often the most costly prayers and only large companies are featured here.
Before leaving, take a seat in the rest area just opposite the large pond. During certain times of the year, purple wisteria grows all over the canopy. This beautiful scene is the perfect place to end your time at the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.
As you start to head back to the train station, we walk down the pedestrian walkway or dankazura. The Dankazura is a stunning alley flanked on either side by beautiful sakura trees and brightly coloured flower gardens.
At the end of the alley, you come to the Ni no Torii, the final torii gate. On either side of this torii gate are two large guardian lion-dogs. The one on the left has its mouth open forming the Sanskrit letter “A”. On the other hand, the one right has its mouth closed forming the sound of the Sanskrit letter “MA”. Together the lions are attempting to sound out “Aum” which is a sacred sound and mantra practiced in Buddhism.
This brings us to the end of the tour. If you’re still hungry and didn’t eat all you could along Komachi Street, you can head over there before your train back to Tokyo leaves from Kamakura station. I hope you enjoyed this day-trip from the big city and felt like the sun, shrines, and seaside rejuvenated your body and spirit.
Let me know in the comment what your favourite part of Kamakura was or what you are most looking forward to seeing!
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